I wish you luck, but I'm curious how you decided the valves were leaking. Cracked head seems more likely from what I read.We didn't give it much ether. Just enough to hear it run on cylinder number 3. Once we heard it run on all 3, we stopped and decided to do a valve job. Nothing happened to the rings or anything else. The ether was only coming out in drops, literally. The valves were leaking when we first tried starting it, without ether. We hate using it but we did not want to buy anything else for it until we heard it run on all 3.
So new crank and I'll look who has a full rebuild kit.I pulled the oil pan off and found out the rod cap was loose and the bearing got mangled. Needs rebuilt. The rings are shot. Any ideas on where I can get a good rebuild kit for it? The crank also has grooves in it from the bearing getting mangled.
OK thanks!Here ya go:
Engine Model : D722. This kit is for KUBOTA D722 Engine. parts for KUBOTA D722 Engine. Application:For KUBOTA engine. Type:engine rebuild kit. 1 set of con rod bearing set. 1 pcs crankshaft (used Parts, in good conditon).www.ebay.com
You'll need to have a machine shop or engine shop remove the liners, install the new liners and bore it to size.
The rest of the rebuild you can do yourself.
You need the WSM for the engine it will give you all the specs.Another question, what size is the std bore supposed to be and what it the std crank size? We just want to check the bore and crank and see how worn it is. If it's even worn
You need the WSM for the engine it will give you all the specs.
On the flat next to the Injection pump or maybe on the valve cover will be the engine serial number, give me that and I'll see if I have the manual. I have a couple.
Was that an ex military engine?
And does it have a turbo?
Or do you know what it came out of?
Might need some more pictures of the engine like the exhaust manifold.
No it's not. Was told that it came out of like a bobcat walk behind skidsteerAnd FYI: Before you put a bunch of $$$ into rebuilding it, you can pick up a good used D722 for less than you can rebuild yours!
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Since the idler gear doesn't have an even multiple of the crank gear teeth, you may have to rotate the crank 100 or 200 turns to line all the marks up together. Probably easier to remove the idler and start from scratch.I'm trying to get the crank out of the d722 but I cannot seem to get the timing marks lined up. How are the marks supposed to line up? We just want to get the marks lined up before we pull the crank