I think I broke it...

[random]

I use my tractor a lot less than you guys do. I did the 100-hour service today, along with the 50-hour that I carelessly didn't do when I should have. Everything was fine. Ran for 20 minutes around 2k RPM, let it cool & rechecked fluids, etc, everything seemed to be fine.

Until I tried to move it. Started up again ok, but when I lifted the 3-point, I heard a pop/clang/bang sound (which just may have been the implement) and it stopped. Master system warning flashing and E-20 code ("Communication Trouble"). Looks like I'm going to need to call the dealer

What could I have done wrong that would result in that?

Confession time:
I'll add one more bit of info, since it's what I suspect: A while ago when I was having starting problems (my first thread here) I had been messing with the PTO switch wires while trying to diagnose the trouble. I tried to set those right today, but I noticed after this happened, they had touched the frame (so, grounded). That seems to me a very likely cause. (I had intended to wrap the wires but I got sidetracked and hadn't gotten back to it).

So, was it a potentially costly screwup from my messing with the wires, or do you think I messed up something else?

 

[mikester]

Wires normally sit in shielded harnesses so it would take some effort to short something. Were you splicing wires?

The usual suspects are corroded connections and bad grounds.

Do you store the machine outside in the elements?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

E-20 could be a krappy CANbus error msg. vehicles today have several computers in them(ECU, dash, nfo,etc.) all 'talk' to each other using the lousy CANbus tech. I suggest finding EVERY connector,disconnect,inspect,reconnect. I know this will be painful(esp. under the dash...) but ANY connector NOT properly clean and mated can cause CANbus to 'fail to communicate'. Be sure EVERY ground wire is clean and tight(remove bolt,inspect,clean, reattach).
You might try disconnecting the battery, wait 5 minutes, reconnect , start..see what happens.
I didn't write the computer code for your tractor just have 4 decades of coding micros,even those with ,ugh, CANbus...

 

[random]

Yes, I spliced wires, but they weren't in a harness.

The more I think about it (and your responses help), the more certain I am that was, indeed, the problem. I can't see how ANY of the other things I did would result in a "communication" error.

Is there any way to reset that code? I'm wondering if I can get that corrected and try again - if it's NOT those wires, it should shut right down again, right?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Is there any way to reset that code? I'm wondering if I can get that corrected and try again - if it's NOT those wires, it should shut right down again, right?

OK, I didn't write their CANbus software but..... typically it 'scans' to make sure it CAN communicate data back and forth, usualy several times a second.ANY 'failure to communicate' is 'logged' and several attempts are made. After that a falg is set and an error is displayed on some screen.

Now if you were 'wiring without disconnecting thebattery, it is possible you've damaged the computer or at the very least set a whack of wrong signals to it. Disconnect battery, go have a coffee, come back, reconnect and start up....maybe, just maybe , that'll clear the codes...
As for 'shutting right down'.....
Again I didn't write their program. I know MY CANbus software works well...

 

[random]

The chassis is ground, right? So it seems to me that the wire touching the chassis would send "a whack of wrong signals". I wasn't touching the wiring when this happened - the movement of the hitch shifted the wires.

If that's going to damage the computer, I'd say the damage is done. Mainly at this point I'm just trying to rule out anything else.

 

[Henro]

Yes, I spliced wires, but they weren't in a harness.

The more I think about it (and your responses help), the more certain I am that was, indeed, the problem. I can't see how ANY of the other things I did would result in a "communication" error.

Is there any way to reset that code? I'm wondering if I can get that corrected and try again - if it's NOT those wires, it should shut right down again, right?

My experience is if there are more than two wires involved at a given time, it is possible to mess up and mix wires rather than getting them correctly connected back up.

Why did you need to splice wires? Are you ABSOLUTELY certain you got them hooked back together properly?

Not sure if this is any help. But it was something to came to mind....at this end...

 

[Fordtech86]

Not experienced with tractors but just from looking at the wiring diagram....

If the PTO switch wiring was shorted to the frame it likely blew the 5 amp fuse I circled. That fuse also powers the check connector and that is needed for network communication. Not sure which fuse that is or where, but you can start by pulling the 5 amp fuses looking for a blown one.

 

[Tractor Doctor]

I use my tractor a lot less than you guys do. I did the 100-hour service today, along with the 50-hour that I carelessly didn't do when I should have. Everything was fine. Ran for 20 minutes around 2k RPM, let it cool & rechecked fluids, etc, everything seemed to be fine.

Until I tried to move it. Started up again ok, but when I lifted the 3-point, I heard a pop/clang/bang sound (which just may have been the implement) and it stopped. Master system warning flashing and E-20 code ("Communication Trouble"). Looks like I'm going to need to call the dealer

What could I have done wrong that would result in that?

Confession time:
I'll add one more bit of info, since it's what I suspect: A while ago when I was having starting problems (my first thread here) I had been messing with the PTO switch wires while trying to diagnose the trouble. I tried to set those right today, but I noticed after this happened, they had touched the frame (so, grounded). That seems to me a very likely cause. (I had intended to wrap the wires but I got sidetracked and hadn't gotten back to it).

So, was it a potentially costly screwup from my messing with the wires, or do you think I messed up something else?

Stop storing tools/ trash behind seat. You have a blown T/M Controller 5amp fuse and a wire shorting in harness to seat switches.

 

[random]

ok since some of the replies suggest I wasn't totally clear:

I shorted the PTO switch wires together some time ago. Only those two wires. I was correcting this but didn't get back to wrapping them. When I operated the 3-point lift, the bare wires shifted into contact with the chassis.

I can and certainly will check the fuse, but I'm not really clear on how that fixes the E-20 error?

 

[random]

So I found the section in the WSM about the codes. Instructions to reset are as follows:
[/quote]When the main switch is turned to "ON" or "START" position while holding down the DPF INHIBIT switch (2) and the parked regeneration switch (3) together, the service inspect display is indicated. And then, a target mode is selected, the data input and the fine adjustment, etc. can be done. To select target mode, press the parked regeneration switch (3) and the displayed mode is changed. To decide, press the parked (3) for few second while target mode is displayed.[/quote]

Ok, so following those instructions - NOTHING HAPPENS! Holding down the switches and turning it on, I still end up with the E-20 code. I'm a bit thrown by the WSM instructions not doing anything. Any thoughts on that?

 

[random]

So I tried pulling and checking all the fuses, especially the ECU related ones, and I guess that must have signaled a reset or something, because it worked afterward.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

next time, disconnect battery...it'll reset 'stuff'.

 

[random]

next time, disconnect battery...it'll reset 'stuff'.

Actually, I did that first, left it overnight, didn't help. So no idea why messing with the fuses did anything, but looks like it did.

Looks like another problem now, though - no power to fuel pump. But that's another thread.

 

[nbryan]

Actually, I did that first, left it overnight, didn't help. So no idea why messing with the fuses did anything, but looks like it did.

Looks like another problem now, though - no power to fuel pump. But that's another thread.

So many times I've simply "messed with" a malfunctioning object of concern and it works again when it goes back together.
Fuses that experience a momentary load surge might not blow but existing contact corrosion may get disturbed enough by the current surge to open the circuit. Jiggling connections, resetting fuses, bingo!

 

[Tractor Doctor]

So I found the section in the WSM about the codes. Instructions to reset are as follows:

When the main switch is turned to "ON" or "START" position while holding down the DPF INHIBIT switch (2) and the parked regeneration switch (3) together, the service inspect display is indicated. And then, a target mode is selected, the data input and the fine adjustment, etc. can be done. To select target mode, press the parked regeneration switch (3) and the displayed mode is changed. To decide, press the parked (3) for few second while target mode is displayed.[/quote]

Ok, so following those instructions - NOTHING HAPPENS! Holding down the switches and turning it on, I still end up with the E-20 code. I'm a bit thrown by the WSM instructions not doing anything. Any thoughts on that?
[/QUOTE]
The main harness has connections that go to seat switches, peel back plastic wire wrap, it's call conduit. Wires pinched and shorting out and the 5 Amp TM Controller fuse is blown.

 

[Tractor Doctor]

When the main switch is turned to "ON" or "START" position while holding down the DPF INHIBIT switch (2) and the parked regeneration switch (3) together, the service inspect display is indicated. And then, a target mode is selected, the data input and the fine adjustment, etc. can be done. To select target mode, press the parked regeneration switch (3) and the displayed mode is changed. To decide, press the parked (3) for few second while target mode is displayed.

Ok, so following those instructions - NOTHING HAPPENS! Holding down the switches and turning it on, I still end up with the E-20 code. I'm a bit thrown by the WSM instructions not doing anything. Any thoughts on that?
[/QUOTE]
The main harness has connections that go to seat switches, peel back plastic wire wrap, it's call conduit. Wires pinched and shorting out and the 5 Amp TM Controller fuse is blown.
[/QUOTE]
People store tools behind and around seat. Seat bouncing up and down pinch harness due to trash around seat platform.