I have a M7500DT-A-L, and it has (I think) an M1820 loader on it. There has been plenty of... custom work by the previous owners and I want to clean it up while I am fixing/reformatting the hydraulics. Does anyone know what type of hydraulic connection was correct for this loader? I am guessing 37*, but I don't want to tear into it unprepared. It looks like at some point some of the hard lines were replaced with random hoses and a bunch of steel was welded all over to protect the now twice as thick hoses. I would like to replace the now rotten hoses with hardline and remove a bunch of the chunks of steel to get some smoother operation.
Hydraulic Identification Help?
- Thread starter Oktm
- Start date
It looks like you have a ton of added pieces to make the fittings work. If you need new hoses anyways, i would take a hose off and take it with you to a hydraulic shop. Show them the fitting you need and have them crimp the connector needed to connect directly to the hardline. You could cut out the stuff in the middle and make it cleaner.
The fitting that goes into what looks like the cylinder... you can get a 90 crimped to the hose that will thread into the cylinder eliminating the 90 you have and 1 threaded connection.
As long as the new hose matches the hardline you should be fine. Be careful hard lining everything, the loader lines need to be flexible for the loader operation
The fitting that goes into what looks like the cylinder... you can get a 90 crimped to the hose that will thread into the cylinder eliminating the 90 you have and 1 threaded connection.
As long as the new hose matches the hardline you should be fine. Be careful hard lining everything, the loader lines need to be flexible for the loader operation
That's a great thing you are doing
My M4500DT of about the same vintage uses BSP parallel threads for some connections (e.g. pressure line to the stacked valves on the side of the transmission) , and metric parallel threads (e.g. on valve work ports and return line connection to transmission). The fittings on your loader could be BSP 60 degree cone fittings. These are said to have better reusability (in terms of reliable sealing after breaking/making connections) than JIC (37 degrees cone) but others with more experience may have a different view. Best be guided by the thread/fitting type on the valves and cylinders, and then fill in the gaps with reliable fittings. I'm told DIN 24 degree fittings are also pretty good, others on this forum may be able to give better suggestions.Good luck, may the fixing/reformatting give you great satisfaction
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Kubota has historically used BSPP (G) thread for most of their factory hydraulic ports. This is a very common standard in Europe and Asia dating back to the influence of the British colonial empire. Standard porting on commodity European valves is also typically BSPP (G) thread, metric is much less common.That's a great thing you are doing
Good luck, may the fixing/reformatting give you great satisfaction
In the United States JIC (37* flare) is the predominate industry standard for hose and tube connections and SAE o-ting boss for hydraulic ports on valves. Both are very reliable and readily available. If you are in the US I suggest you stick with US standards for these parts. Using metric or BSPx will simply complicate your life, make it more difficult and expensive to source parts, and set the stage for someone to mistakenly use the wrong fitting in the future.
So to answer the OP's question - identify the thread types used on the tractor's valves and ports, acquire the appropriate adapters to transition to the appropriate gender of JIC and SAE and complete the plumbing using those standards. For hoses I strongly recommend JIC female swivel ends over male NPT. Similar cost, much easier to assemble, greater selection of end geometries, and less susceptible to leaks. Same for steel tube - use JIC flares and tube nuts. This is also the current Kubota practice used for implements and accessories sold in the US today.
Dan
Hard line 7 - 10 has been removed and replaced with hoses, I basically just want to return it to this config (with short hoses for moving bits). The main problem is that 7 and 8 are kind of required clearance-wise as the hoses JUST clear either side of the frame, so it has to have steel bumpers that are tight enough that the engine loads up just pushing the bucket to touch the ground. With those lines I can grind the bumpers down/off and have a less frustrating experiance using the FEL. I will look into those and see if I can get some ordered to compare. Thank you!
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
The ports on the cylinder are almost surely NPT. If you are making the tubes and hoses you are in control of those connections. I know Kubota used brazed NPT female swivel ends on the tubes and hoses with male NPT ends on my 1980-ish loader. Over the years as things aged and failed I have replaced most of that with JIC.
Dan
Do you have any pictures of the control sticks for those valves? I think I have the same setup, and on mine the PO had fabricobbled the levers together from steel strap and all-thread. I want to see what they should look like. I plan to eventually put a new set of valves closer to the steering wheel and move to a higher volume crank driven pump for the loader. I am going to use those two for rear remotes.That's a great thing you are doing
I got one of the tees off of the loader and brought it in to a local hydraulic shop. They confirmed it was a JIC #10 (5/8" 37* JIC fitting). When I was pulling it off I realized I am only missing line 7 and 10. For now I am just going to get line 7 replaced (Sounds like it will be about $200 to get that line built). I thought it might help someone else who is trying to figure out the sizing on those lines in the future. Thank you!
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
The ones I have aren't genuine, the levers were extended upwards to put them within easier reach of the operator. Photos of my setup here:
Advice needed on adding hydraulic circuit
I'd like to add a bale clamp on the front end loader of my M4500DT. Currently it has one one-way valve, and one two-way valve both used for the front loader (single acting lift cylinders and double acting curl cylinder). So I need to add a two-way valve for the double acting bale clamp but I'm...
www.orangetractortalks.com
Lucky! I don't have a full picture right now, but these are my valves.
You get full pedals AND you don't get stabbed in the thigh by threaded rod! I want to set mine up similar to yours or just put stubbies on it once I go to a joystick.
They charge $115 an hour. The tube is about $30 haha. I was looking at buying a tool and tube, but I cant find a local supplier that will sell me the line, and I would still need a bender and flare tool. I still would have done it myself, but I cant find a tool at a decent price that will do larger flares anyway (I was thinking about doing hardline from my front mount pump, but I would need over an inch line for the flow I want)
A few auto parts stores make custom hydraulic lines, especially the ones in farming areas. Autozone comes to mind.
There may be a local(ish) small attachment manufacturer near you that would make you lines as well. I get my lines from the guy who made my grapples. I'm not sure if I'm saving any money.
Dave Ogren
Member
Equipment
BX23S w/FEL &BH &60" Mowing Deck, 48" Dirty Dog Box Blade, 48" Tar River Tiller,
The place I got that quote for was a local hydraulic shop, their fitting assortment was quite impressive too! I forgot about auto parts stores. I was thinking somewhere like https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ for the flex hoses, it is just the hard lines that seem difficult. Thanks for those suggestions!