Hydraulic heater question

[Highmarket]

I just purchased a New B2650 hsdc and installed the engine block heater with no problem. I also bought a Kats 200w magnetic heater and was planning on putting it some where on the Hydraulic system. I have it near the mid mount PTO for now. Any suggestions on a better place. I was thinking of maybe putting another one on rear diff area. I have them plugged into wifi outlets. My plan was when I was 2 hrs away from my cabin to turn them on so it is ready to go to work on snow removal when I get there and also so I don't have to run it in my garage to long reducing fumes. Thanks Rich

 

[Bulldog]

We tried magnetic heaters at the quarry I worked at and it was a waste of time and money. Did nothing at all to help with cold weather starts. Just to much metal to heat up along with the oil.

 

[rjcorazza]

I have in the past used (2) 250w magnetic heaters on my hydraulic sump. The only way they are useful on such a large sump is to basically keep them on all the time to maintain a (slightly) higher temperature. A few hours of on time will not be of much benefit.


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[NoJacketRequired]

I have a 300W magnetic heater that I use on the transmission of our MF-135. It does help. Keep in mind the MF135 has a big flat spot that is just about a perfect fit for the heater, so we get very good thermal conduction. This is also inside a garage where it's protected from wind. It does help bring the transmission (TDH) oil up to temperature, but if it's below about -10C there's just not enough heat to make that happen. That's when I resort to using a kerosene salamander-style heater. With 50,000 Btu it makes a measurable difference even on a -20C day.

For our little Kubota's I've found that plugging in the block heater will get the engine started. Once the engine is started, slowly run the speed up to about 1400 RPM and use that as a "warm up" speed. A very few minutes of this will have the tractor ready to work. (I run the tractor while I'm using the shovel to remove snow from doorways etc, maybe 5 minutes.)

Also, keep in mind the other variable... block heater "on" time vs outside temperature. I went out this morning and plugged in the B7510. Don't know what got into me, but I had my head focused on the weather forecast rather than reality. The forecast said the temperature would be -7C this morning. In reality it was -17C. My first start attempt after 20 minutes of block heating was unsuccessful. DOH! I don't wonder why! After an hour it started with no trouble.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Best bet is to warm the engine (something I never do) and allow the tractor to sit and idle to warm the fluid. Mine s idling in the barn right now as a matter of fact.

I would add power service ant-gel if you are in a cold climate. ULSD likes to wax below 32 degrees F.

 

[CurtisC]

Highmarket, With a hydrostatic tranny I recommend you bond a silicon pad heater to the bottom of your hyd. reservoir. Its a large flat surface and given heat rises its the best place to warm maximum oil. Not that familiar with magnetic heaters and would be concerned it could get snagged and pulled off. Heating the reservoir helps the pump avoid cavitation potential associated with pulling colder more viscous oil up the suction line and feeds warm oil to all hydraulics including transmission/rear axle and power steering. I put a 125 watt Wolverine pan heater on my B26 - using their sizing chart for my system's 7 gal capacity. I noticed considerably less whine from the pump and tranny if I gave it a couple of hours pre warm up but that's with temps only in the low teens.

 

[SidecarFlip]

In my case I find it more prudent to let the tractors warm up for 30 minutes or so before using them. I'm not in a hurry anyway. The end game is you die. why rush things.