I had the dealer add three rear remotes, two center return and on float, as well as hydraulic top link and side link as a turn key job. It is an EXPENSIVE way to go about it. At the time I needed it (maybe wanted it but we’re not getting into that), I had a crap ton of stuff going on, and was NOT up for a project that required any research, thought, or time so I just turned it over to them and said, “do it”.
Advantages of dealer install: No thought, no work on your part. I signed the order, hauled tractor to them one day, picked up next day. Easy peasy.
Disadvantages: If I was spec’ing it, I would have spec’ed a longer toplink. It is by far the most costly route and the end product is no better than the DIY alternatives, depending on DIY maybe not as good.
I don’t regret it but I also don’t recommend it. I love the hydraulics on the 3 point and the additional range of motion provided by moving the original turnbuckle sidelink to the left side so I can now adjust both sides for those occasional jobs where I want to put an extreme angle on the boxblade or backblade. I can also run normally with full up on the hydraulic is level so it’s very easy to return to level but also adjust the turnbuckle to allow the hydraulic to tilt the hitch in either direction if the job requires that capability. So yes, having hydraulics on the 3 point is great, regardless whether you do both toplink and side link or just the toplink.
As much road/trail maintenance as I do with the boxblade it has saved me incredible amounts of time. I usually have the boxblade on for ballast so it isn’t uncommon I’ll be tooling down a trail in the hinterlands of the property and see a ditch silted in or something that needs touching up. With the hydraulics, I just flip a lever to throw the boxblade off at an angle, clear the ditch, flip the lever again to level, flip another lever to set the toplink appropriately, clean up any road wash caused by the ditch problem, and continue on after less than 5 minutes. It’s absolutely luxurious.