Hydraulic 3 point upper link ?
- Thread starter Bearcatrp
- Start date
Not that I'm aware of. It's basically a cylinder with swivelly eyes on each end and plugs into your tractor remote hydraulics.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
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This is for future reference. Maybe do some research on doing it myself if the dealer price is outrageous.
Seems like I put about a grand into mine when I did my own. That was one cylinder from Fit Rite and a pair of rear remotes.
if you’re not needing it too much, could do a simple diverted valve setup and use your FEL valve to operate a cylinder. That would be pretty simple, and you probably don’t need your bucket curl/dump functions when you’re grading or other stuff where you want that top link…
if you’re not needing it too much, could do a simple diverted valve setup and use your FEL valve to operate a cylinder. That would be pretty simple, and you probably don’t need your bucket curl/dump functions when you’re grading or other stuff where you want that top link…
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Adding a DIY valve and outlets to your tractor is not expensive and it's not rocket science. Sourcing a hydraulic top link the correct size for a small tractor like yours is the harder part.
Dan
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
I had the dealer add three rear remotes, two center return and on float, as well as hydraulic top link and side link as a turn key job. It is an EXPENSIVE way to go about it. At the time I needed it (maybe wanted it but we’re not getting into that), I had a crap ton of stuff going on, and was NOT up for a project that required any research, thought, or time so I just turned it over to them and said, “do it”.
Advantages of dealer install: No thought, no work on your part. I signed the order, hauled tractor to them one day, picked up next day. Easy peasy.
Disadvantages: If I was spec’ing it, I would have spec’ed a longer toplink. It is by far the most costly route and the end product is no better than the DIY alternatives, depending on DIY maybe not as good.
I don’t regret it but I also don’t recommend it. I love the hydraulics on the 3 point and the additional range of motion provided by moving the original turnbuckle sidelink to the left side so I can now adjust both sides for those occasional jobs where I want to put an extreme angle on the boxblade or backblade. I can also run normally with full up on the hydraulic is level so it’s very easy to return to level but also adjust the turnbuckle to allow the hydraulic to tilt the hitch in either direction if the job requires that capability. So yes, having hydraulics on the 3 point is great, regardless whether you do both toplink and side link or just the toplink.
As much road/trail maintenance as I do with the boxblade it has saved me incredible amounts of time. I usually have the boxblade on for ballast so it isn’t uncommon I’ll be tooling down a trail in the hinterlands of the property and see a ditch silted in or something that needs touching up. With the hydraulics, I just flip a lever to throw the boxblade off at an angle, clear the ditch, flip the lever again to level, flip another lever to set the toplink appropriately, clean up any road wash caused by the ditch problem, and continue on after less than 5 minutes. It’s absolutely luxurious.
Advantages of dealer install: No thought, no work on your part. I signed the order, hauled tractor to them one day, picked up next day. Easy peasy.
Disadvantages: If I was spec’ing it, I would have spec’ed a longer toplink. It is by far the most costly route and the end product is no better than the DIY alternatives, depending on DIY maybe not as good.
I don’t regret it but I also don’t recommend it. I love the hydraulics on the 3 point and the additional range of motion provided by moving the original turnbuckle sidelink to the left side so I can now adjust both sides for those occasional jobs where I want to put an extreme angle on the boxblade or backblade. I can also run normally with full up on the hydraulic is level so it’s very easy to return to level but also adjust the turnbuckle to allow the hydraulic to tilt the hitch in either direction if the job requires that capability. So yes, having hydraulics on the 3 point is great, regardless whether you do both toplink and side link or just the toplink.
As much road/trail maintenance as I do with the boxblade it has saved me incredible amounts of time. I usually have the boxblade on for ballast so it isn’t uncommon I’ll be tooling down a trail in the hinterlands of the property and see a ditch silted in or something that needs touching up. With the hydraulics, I just flip a lever to throw the boxblade off at an angle, clear the ditch, flip the lever again to level, flip another lever to set the toplink appropriately, clean up any road wash caused by the ditch problem, and continue on after less than 5 minutes. It’s absolutely luxurious.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Stop it - you are killing me
I will add that Kubota did not take the "cheap-cuts" on the L4701 that they did on its smaller brethren. I would have done same as you and paid for dealer installed factory remotes if I could have got the "good stuff".
Dan
Will consider this if I decide to do this. Will spend some more time with the tractor to see if I need it. Will ask the dealer on costs when I go pick up my tires next week. Watched some videos seeing this in action. Seems a good investment.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
TnT or not - rear remotes on a tractor are wonderful additions and you've I'll find other uses for them.
Dan
I made mine out of a boat trim system. Two cylinders and a self contained trim pump.
