How much ballast and how -- "new" L5740

[BobInSD]

I just got my L5740. Tires are loaded with CaCl, which I was told had leaked and been cleaned up. Turns out this was not the case--they are still leaking. I'm taking it to the tire place on Monday to get rim cleaned up and new tubes. Nobody here (within 50 miles) does "beet juice", and the reccomendation of the tire guy I trust was to but the CaCL back in if I need the ballast. He does not do ethanol but I have not looked into other places in town. Searching the 'net implies guys either love or hate the CaCl, with not much middle ground.

I'm coming from a 5 ton (ballasted JD 3020) to a 2 ton tractor, and assumed I needed the tires loaded. I currently don't use my loader (will be a LA 854) all that much. Main tractor tasks are box blading and using a rear-mounted snowblower. If I use the loader for gravel I normally have a (not very heavy) box-blade on the back and if I use it for snow I've got a heavy snowblower on the back. I may occasionally use the loader to move a tree stump or something without a weight on the back (unless I need one, in which case I can put ballast on the 3 pt). I will probably use the loader more on the more nimble 5740, and I will probably use this tractor with a rear mounted mower (I have a 6 ft mower) and may eventually plow and/or rototil a small garden (100 ft by 50 ft, a garden, not a field). I also may get pallet forks in the distant future. (I don't have plow/tiller/forks so these are future possibilities).

So, how much ballast do I need and what's the best way to get it? The rims are already damaged, so I'm not looking at putting CaCl into new rims. Wheel weights are over a grand for around 1000 pounds (and I'm not sure how much wider they will make the tractor). OTOH, it's going to cost north of $500 to get the new tubes and rims cleaned up. I'm guessing there's not a huge market for used weights for a tractor that new?

Do I need one or the other, or both? Would I want to be able to have less weight while (for example) mowing (so be able to take the wheel weights off)? I have ag tires, no hills (but a steep ditch I might try to mow if I thought it was safe--I chicken out on my Ford but a neighbor mows it with a sketchier setup than mine). I can make a ballast box/barrel-o-cement for the times I need more, but loaded tires, followed by wheel weights seems like they'd be less wear-and-tear on the tractor.

Sorry for the long post, thanks for wading through it, and please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,

 

[BobInSD]

Hoping I didn't ask too controversial a question (who are you voting for, which church do you go to, is CaCl God's gift to traction or a curse?).

Let me ask slightly different questions.

1) If you have wheel weights, to you actually take them on and off for different chores? My dad has a smaller tractor and never puts his on.

2) Which chores do I want ballast for, and how much? (my guesses in parenthesis-please let me know the reality)

a) Loader work/pallet forks? (guess: need a lot of rear ballast, probably can't have too much?)

b) Back blade/box blade? (guess: want medium to a lot of ballast, for traction. Maybe some on the front also since it's MFWD?)

c) Mowing a pasture (not a "lawn")? (probably want the tractor as light as possible, or maybe leave bucket on or add a little front weight?)


Thanks again,

Bob

 

[BigG]

Loaded tires are loaded once and forgotten. The least expensive and very effective. Iron wheel weights are to damn hard to put on and off for different jobs. Hang them and forget them. Rear ballast boxes or and implement such as a box blade or rotary cutter are the best way to add and subtract rear weight with the least effort. Then there are the suitcase weights that allow you to weight the front end and remove them with some effort. I find it entertaining reading about the people that remove the FEL so they can add some weight to the front end. A lot of the old tractors you could also buy front wheel weights. The suit case weights are also useful if you have a hanger for the rear of the tractor such as a Heavy Hitch.

There should be a section in the owner manual that will tell you how much weight to add. Never use the FEL without ballast. This is both dangerous and can cause extra wear and tear on the front of the tractor. And remember the slope of the ground under your tractor greatly effects the way a FEL feels as you pick up a load.

The lay of the land also effects the ballast on the tractor. I grew up in a very hilly part of SE Ohio and there you always wanted the tractor loaded heavy and low in an attempt to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. One moment you need the weight for pulling traction and the next you need it to allow the brakes to work better.

Now in Florida the tractor dealers have looked at me funny when I request weights for my tractors. I much prefer to have the weight and not need it then to need it and find myself in trouble.

There are few instances that a light tractor is of any benefit.

Even places like a hay field where you worry about soil compaction the tractors are loaded to allow the tractor to travel up and down hills without sliding. A round baler load up as a bale is formed are very heavy and require good traction.

 

[BobInSD]

....

There should be a section in the owner manual that will tell you how much weight to add. Never use the FEL without ballast. This is both dangerous and can cause extra wear and tear on the front of the tractor. And remember the slope of the ground under your tractor greatly effects the way a FEL feels as you pick up a load.

The manual (for the loader) says, in bold, labeled !CAUTION: [for stability and safety] "ballast should be added to the rear of the tractor in the from of a 3-point counter weight and rear wheel ballast. The amount of ballast will depend on the application".

On the same page, but not in bold, it says "When mounting a heavy rear implement, liquid in the tires may not be required".

There are few instances that a light tractor is of any benefit.

Even places like a hay field where you worry about soil compaction the tractors are loaded to allow the tractor to travel up and down hills without sliding. A round baler load up as a bale is formed are very heavy and require good traction.

My Ford is loaded and I've never noticed problems mowing the pasture. That tractor probably weights 1000 pound less, but I haven't seen problems.

I'm just going to have the but the CaCl back in. I've had it in my other two tractors for the last 15 years, with only valve core leaks and it's probably been in these two tractors for the 35+ additional years before I bought them.

Thanks for the advice!

Bob

 

[BigG]

Check this story out:

Well, my research told me it was not heavy enough... Anyone want a Grand L5740HST

Just got a new to me 2010 Grand L5740HST with 100 hours and had a LA854 loader put on a few weeks ago. Story here http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16810&highlight=L5740 I bought a big tractor (60HP 4X4) to handle round bales with the loader. First bales I bought (5x5)...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[BobInSD]

Check this story out:

Well, my research told me it was not heavy enough... Anyone want a Grand L5740HST

Just got a new to me 2010 Grand L5740HST with 100 hours and had a LA854 loader put on a few weeks ago. Story here http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16810&highlight=L5740 I bought a big tractor (60HP 4X4) to handle round bales with the loader. First bales I bought (5x5)...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Thanks, I just got home from dropping it at the tire place. I told them to fix up the rims, new tubes, and put the CaCl back in. I don't plan on lifting round bails for now, but will add some 3pt ballast if I lift a heavy stump or round bales. I'm down to only two metal 55 gallon drums left, so might not "waste" one by filling with cement for pure ballast. I've got one of those old, V-shaped (no auger) snowblowers that I was going to give away if anybody wanted it, that might be the beginnings of a "ballast box". If nothing else, the three point connections on it can be used. Too bad I'm the worlds worst welder...

Thanks again,

 

[chim]

For liquid ballast you could use windshield washer fluid, earth-friendly antifreeze, RV antifreeze, etc. None of them have the corrosive attribute that salt water does. I filled the tires on one of my tractors with a fitting from Tractor Supply many years ago. As the guys at work say, "It ain't rocket surgery".

 

[D2Cat]

Bob, get yourself an inexpensive wire welder, watch a couple of YouTube video on welding and get busy. Your technique will quickly improve, you'll develop confidence and welding will become fun!