Can someone please tell me how to adjust the hydraulic pressure on my 1975 L245DT? I would like to set it for 1800 psi at 2800 rpm.
Thank you, Kubota Knerd
//
Thank you, Kubota Knerd
//
How Do I Adjust Hydraulic Pressure?
- Thread starter Kubota Knerd
- Start date
Why start a new thread?
Here is your other one:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30837
Here is your other one:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30837
Because now I'm trying to find someone who can tell me more about the L245DT hydraulic pressure by-pass valve (specifically about the valve that I have).
And I am still trying to find a place to connect a test gauge on this tractor (thinking about drilling and tapping a 1/4" NPT female port on the round 3-blot block at the discharge of the hydraulic pump). Has anyone done that before?
Surely there is someone out there who knows how to set the proper hydraulic pressure level on a L245DT (since they were made for about 10 years and several sold in the US and world wide).
I watched the video about pressure testing, which was helpful, but does not explain how to change the pressure if it is too high (like I think it might be in my case) or too low.
I would like to know if the plug covering the by-pass valve spring is a pressure adjustment? If increased spring tension increases hydraulic pressure (or decreases hydraulic pressure)? If the valve is double acting or single acting? What is the approximate pressure differential between opening and closing? How will know if the by-pass valve is functioning ok or if a repair kit is needed?
For some reason (I'm still not sure why) I split the side out of a new hydraulic pump. So nowI am a bit skiddish about installing another new pump without knowing what the pump pressure is.
Is there some reason why I shouldn't post a new thread to ask for additional help?
Thank you for following these threads, Kubota Knerd
//
And I am still trying to find a place to connect a test gauge on this tractor (thinking about drilling and tapping a 1/4" NPT female port on the round 3-blot block at the discharge of the hydraulic pump). Has anyone done that before?
Surely there is someone out there who knows how to set the proper hydraulic pressure level on a L245DT (since they were made for about 10 years and several sold in the US and world wide).
I watched the video about pressure testing, which was helpful, but does not explain how to change the pressure if it is too high (like I think it might be in my case) or too low.
I would like to know if the plug covering the by-pass valve spring is a pressure adjustment? If increased spring tension increases hydraulic pressure (or decreases hydraulic pressure)? If the valve is double acting or single acting? What is the approximate pressure differential between opening and closing? How will know if the by-pass valve is functioning ok or if a repair kit is needed?
For some reason (I'm still not sure why) I split the side out of a new hydraulic pump. So nowI am a bit skiddish about installing another new pump without knowing what the pump pressure is.
Is there some reason why I shouldn't post a new thread to ask for additional help?
Thank you for following these threads, Kubota Knerd
//
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Here is an update to my last 2 threads.
I removed, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled the bypass valve, removing and leaving out the 3 washers (spacers) for the spring (thinking, but not knowing for sure, that this would reduce system pressure on the pump casing thereby preventing another catastrophic pump failure -more like hoping, since nobody replied to let me know which way to adjust the bypass valve). Next I installed a new hydraulic pump (from Abaline Machine in Kansas - they were very helpful). The local Kubota Dealer, Bingham Equipment, is totally useless. Following the break-in procedure (from the WSM) I let the tractor idle for an hour before raising the 3-pt.
Still not having the proper test set-up to check hydraulic pressure, I was very skiddish about applying a lot of FEL pressure. But at least I was able to raise the FEL enough to move the tractor from the field (where it broke down) back to the barn.
Before putting back into full service I still need to adjust for proper hydraulic pressure. And to do that I will need to install a test gauge. The WSM says to test at the 3-pt. hydraulic cylinder cover (head) on top of the rear axle where there is a plug to be removed for connecting a test gauge. The problem however, is that I am unable to find an adaptor bushing to connect the test gauge (1/4" MPT) to the hydraulic cylinder cover (a female M14-1.25 threaded boss). So I am considering drilling and tapping the M14-1.25 plug to fit the 1/4" MIP test gauge.
Stay tuned, Kubota Knerd
//
I removed, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled the bypass valve, removing and leaving out the 3 washers (spacers) for the spring (thinking, but not knowing for sure, that this would reduce system pressure on the pump casing thereby preventing another catastrophic pump failure -more like hoping, since nobody replied to let me know which way to adjust the bypass valve). Next I installed a new hydraulic pump (from Abaline Machine in Kansas - they were very helpful). The local Kubota Dealer, Bingham Equipment, is totally useless. Following the break-in procedure (from the WSM) I let the tractor idle for an hour before raising the 3-pt.
Still not having the proper test set-up to check hydraulic pressure, I was very skiddish about applying a lot of FEL pressure. But at least I was able to raise the FEL enough to move the tractor from the field (where it broke down) back to the barn.
Before putting back into full service I still need to adjust for proper hydraulic pressure. And to do that I will need to install a test gauge. The WSM says to test at the 3-pt. hydraulic cylinder cover (head) on top of the rear axle where there is a plug to be removed for connecting a test gauge. The problem however, is that I am unable to find an adaptor bushing to connect the test gauge (1/4" MPT) to the hydraulic cylinder cover (a female M14-1.25 threaded boss). So I am considering drilling and tapping the M14-1.25 plug to fit the 1/4" MIP test gauge.
Stay tuned, Kubota Knerd
//
Yes, I went to several hose places. They all told me that the M14-1.25 is a bolt thread only. And that there is no fitting for it. The closest they can come up with is a M14-1.50 fitting. (I have part numbers if anyone is interested.) So I have ordered a spare M14-1.25 plug and plan to drill and tap it for the 1/4" MPT pressure gauge. I'll post how it turns out after it's done.
If anyone has any suggestions, or knows of a fitting that will work, I'm all ears (or should I say eyes?).
//
If anyone has any suggestions, or knows of a fitting that will work, I'm all ears (or should I say eyes?).
//
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You can get just about any fitting from these guys.
The fittings on the tractor are not metric, they are BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) And BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper).
https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9035_BSPP_x_NPTF_Female_p/9035.htm
https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9007_BSPP_x_Male_Pipe_NPTF_p/9007.htm
The fittings on the tractor are not metric, they are BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) And BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper).
https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9035_BSPP_x_NPTF_Female_p/9035.htm
https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9007_BSPP_x_Male_Pipe_NPTF_p/9007.htm
Thank you for the BSP info. and the link to DHH. I will get with DHH on Monday and post their response.
//
//