How difficult to replace shift lever on B6200D?

SmallChange

New member

Equipment
B6200D
Jun 14, 2018
25
0
0
Port Deposit, MD
The main shifter lever on my old B6200D Kubota 4WD tractor just broke off, about as far down as I can see by looking into the top of the transmission case cover.

How hard is it to replace the lever? The biggest thing I've ever done on this tractor is to replace the water pump -- is it harder than that, or easier?

It looks like I might have to take the cover off the top of the transmission case because the lever installs upward through the cover, not down from the outside, is that right? Maybe I'd have to disconnect a hydraulic fluid line, get sheet metal out of the way, maybe get other things out of there. Is it difficult to get things lined up to drop back into place during reassembly?

My serial number is B6200D60341. I don't know how old the tractor is. I probably bought it 20 years ago, and it looked old then.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!!
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,255
1,053
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Step one is to go to Kubotabooks.com and download a Workshop Manual.

http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/in...s/&AutoIndex=0c599da76b5a2bf0b3e4081a7bccb1da

A quick look just now showed one available although the copy is not great.

Removing the top of the transmission containing the shifter does not look complicated.

Take lots of pictures as you go so re assembly is not full of questions.

Aligning up the shift forks before putting the top back on is the only step that needs to be done correctly. In simple terms, all shift forks in neutral by sliding them back and forth before putting the shifter and cover back on.

Do you have clutch adjustment problems and have to force the shifter?

Dave
 

SmallChange

New member

Equipment
B6200D
Jun 14, 2018
25
0
0
Port Deposit, MD
Step one is to go to Kubotabooks.com and download a Workshop Manual.

[...]

Do you have clutch adjustment problems and have to force the shifter?

Dave
Thank you, Dave!

I thought I replied shortly after you posted but now I don't see my reply; maybe I just forgot. That was rude, and I'm sorry.

I spent this morning digging into the problem. It certainly appears that I have to take the top of the transmission off, which in turn means taking off the seat and its mounts, and the sheet metal covers for some smaller transmission levers, and I did all that. The cover is held on by (at least) six bolts, and five of them are perfectly easy and accessible.

The sixth bolt, though, on the right toward the rear, looks really difficult. It is immediately under a heavy casting, with so little clearance that I can't fit my fingernail into the space. Without first pulling the heavy casting off I doubt there's room to completely unload the lock washer, much less pull the bolt out of its hole and lift the transmission cover off the tractor.

The heavy casting obstructing the bolt includes the three point hitch lift arms and the cylinder for the lift pistons, the mount for the three point hitch top link, the mount for the ROPS, a rigid hydraulic line, the adjustment for the three point hitch drop speed, the shifter for 2WD/4WD (IIRC), and the top cover of the differential. Also, this casting includes the mounting point for the box from which extends three point hitch control lever with its mechanical linkage. At first I thought that it was this box blocking the bolt head, but no, the bolt head is a good 5 or 6 millimeters aft of the heavy casting mounting surface the box mates with. I'm not sure what else would become involved in disassembling all of this stuff, but already it looks quite intimidating. And, I've never disassembled this kind of hydraulic stuff. It feels hard to guess what other hidden issues are involved in pulling the three point hitch lift mechanism off the top of the differential.

I have the shop manual, and the best view of this situation is the transmission diagrams on pages M.2-19 and M.2-20, though these are longitudinal sections that are on the tractor centerline and the bolt interference happens maybe 80 mm beyond the plane of the diagrams. In these diagrams you can see where a connecting rod nestles in the lift piston, and there's a butted seam in the castings maybe 100 mm below the end of the connecting rod. It is along this butted seam that the bolt interference happens.

Am I missing something silly? It looks to me like this one bolt, this one corner of the transmission cover, puts the whole project way outside my comfort zone. I'm not even 100% sure I can lift the ROPS by myself, and that's just one part. Did this just turn into a Kubota dealer project?

By the way, I don't have any problems that require forcing the shifter. Somebody else was actually using the tractor when the shifter broke, but I doubt they did much. The break in the shifter looks like a tree stump after felling the tree, where you cut wood from both sides and leave a little wooden hinge to steer the fall: there's fresh broken metal in this hinge zone across the middle of the steel, but more corroded looking areas on either side as if it's been cracking and aging for some time. I think it's just a stress point that fatigued.

Thank you!
 

SmallChange

New member

Equipment
B6200D
Jun 14, 2018
25
0
0
Port Deposit, MD
Interference with ?????
Interference with two assemblies above it. One is a very large casting that includes the 3 point hitch lift mechanism and arms and the ROPS mount. The other is a small box bolted to it, containing the regulation mechanism for the 3 point hitch lift including the control lever and the mechanical feedback lever. The bolt head is pretty neatly centered under the seam where these two interfering parts mate, so both have to go.

At least that's the best I can figure, having spent a while longer with a mirror and flashlight. As I understand, the shift lever must have been installed pretty early in the assembly process.

But I've decided to pull the plug on this effort. These two assemblies look too complicated, connect with too many other things, handle big forces, involve hydraulic fluid when I'm not familiar with such assemblies, and one of them supports pretty massive parts I don't think I can lift. Besides, it's all so unfamiliar, I'm afraid I might unbolt something that stores energy in a way I don't anticipate, and get hurt.

I've reassembled everything I took apart, and moved the tractor uphill out of the barn and into the driveway where a flatbed truck or trailer could reach it. Considering the tractor is stuck in neutral, and I'm by myself, this was a big accomplishment all by itself. I did a series of short moves by lifting, lowering, and angling the dozer blade while placing an old drawbar under it with rebar stakes anchoring it to the ground, again and again. I'm going off to lick my wounds and examine my bank balances....

Thank you for helping!