Heavy load LED light bars on B2601

[GreensvilleJay]

um..
Watts / Volts = Amps...

Volts * Amps = Watts

Watts /AMps = Volts

This is ONLY for DC power NOT AC

Jay

 

[GeoHorn]

um..
Watts / Volts = Amps...

Volts * Amps = Watts

Watts /AMps = Volts

This is ONLY for DC power NOT AC

Jay

I'm sober now. (and corrected/edited my faux pas)

https://hackingvision.com/2018/03/24/volts-amps-watts-ohms-explained/

 

[despling]

Re: Heavy load LED light bars on B2601 / B2301

I thought I would add my two cents to this discussion, as I am going to upgrade my 14.5A Dynamo to the 40A alternator as well. Reason being, I want my equipment to be as capable as possible, not as minimal as possible. I will be adding lights like the rest of the folks here. Granted, I don't plan on doing a lot of night work, but I'd rather have the capability and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

I was looking at the B7311 Upgrade Kit from Kubota, and it's a salty $652.83 at Messick's as of the date of this post. Looking back in this Forum history, it appears that this kit used to be as cheap as $211 in the 2013-2014 time frame. I have done extensive research for sourcing the parts needed. Here's a couple of things I found:

If you buy all the parts separately at Messicks, it's $100 cheaper than if you buy the complete "kit". Evidently you pay to have it all packaged nicely.

You can get true, OEM, Denso integrated regulator alternators on Amazon that directly replace the Kubota Part # for a fraction of the cost. $65 vs $281.

 

[200mph]

Re: Heavy load LED light bars on B2601 / B2301

I thought I would add my two cents to this discussion, as I am going to upgrade my 14.5A Dynamo to the 40A alternator as well. Reason being, I want my equipment to be as capable as possible, not as minimal as possible. I will be adding lights like the rest of the folks here. Granted, I don't plan on doing a lot of night work, but I'd rather have the capability and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

I was looking at the B7311 Upgrade Kit from Kubota, and it's a salty $652.83 at Messick's as of the date of this post. Looking back in this Forum history, it appears that this kit used to be as cheap as $211 in the 2013-2014 time frame. I have done extensive research for sourcing the parts needed. Here's a couple of things I found:

If you buy all the parts separately at Messicks, it's $100 cheaper than if you buy the complete "kit". Evidently you pay to have it all packaged nicely.

You can get true, OEM, Denso integrated regulator alternators on Amazon that directly replace the Kubota Part # for a fraction of the cost. $65 vs $281.

WARNING!!!!! I can save you even more $

I agree the price is over $600 when looking at the Kit (PN:6C040-95302) through Parts, but the Wholegoods kit item number, B7311 from Wholegoods is $193. I just got off the phone with Messick's sales department a few minutes ago to confirm the price.

Take the savings and donate it to your favorite nonprofit.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re:
Take the savings and donate it to your favorite nonprofit.

favorite nonprofit. ..

that'd be ME

 

[BX25DMan]

120 watts only uses 10 amps so I don't know why everyone's suggesting a 30 amp fuse and a 10 gauge wire...

 

[NHSleddog]

Be sure to measure any actual LED light. I recently purchased a 27Watt for backup and 2 120Watt to face forward. I purchased a relay and wire accordingly.

Well the actual draw on these was WAY off.

27W measures 10 at start and 9 while running.
The 120W measured 20 cold and 18 running and the other was 19/17 respectively.

So I was planning on 267W and have an actual load of under 50W. Turns out the 10Amp work light circuit is more than enough for the task on the B2650.

 

[RCW]

Be sure to measure any actual LED light.

So I was planning on 267W and have an actual load of under 50W.

This is something I recently learned from 200mph and Jay.

Hadn't heard it before, and appreciate you reporting your actuals. Certainly reinforces everything they said.

 

[greenacresnorth]

Be sure to measure any actual LED light. I recently purchased a 27Watt for backup and 2 120Watt to face forward. I purchased a relay and wire accordingly.

Well the actual draw on these was WAY off.

27W measures 10 at start and 9 while running.
The 120W measured 20 cold and 18 running and the other was 19/17 respectively.

So I was planning on 267W and have an actual load of under 50W. Turns out the 10Amp work light circuit is more than enough for the task on the B2650.

This is something I recently learned from 200mph and Jay.

Hadn't heard it before, and appreciate you reporting your actuals. Certainly reinforces everything they said.

for some reason all these led light vendors come up with crazy numbers to make there units seem mo better, when in fact the reason for upgrading to or installing LED's is to reduce current..... I remember when LED home lights first came on the scene they would advertise as a wattage equivalent, now its about lumens and watts.

 

[Hodgy]

for some reason all these led light vendors come up with crazy numbers to make there units seem no better,
now its about lumens and watts.

I agree, these vendors can claim anything to sell their product.


.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yeah , NO 'truth in advertising'.. must be cousins of those that say you get 100 Watts from a pair of USB powered PC speakers..

get 'creative' with numbers on your taxes though and see what happens !!