Greasing front axle pivot pin problem

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you put in to much grease it blows the seal and fills up the torque tube.

I get a huge laugh out of the made up names of parts on here!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Labor would be about 4 hrs @ $80 per hr and with a wait time of 2 months.

To fix this properly it would take about 30 min max and wouldn't even break a sweat doing it.

Lift the front of the tractor and place jack stands on front of frame.
Remove one bolt on the propeller shaft cover (blue)
Slide cover to the rear then use drift punch to remove roll pin (yellow)
Slide the coupling to the rear and let propeller shaft hang.

Loosen the 2 bolts in pink, then remove the 4 bolts in green.
Pull back the rear holder assembly and remove it.
Put rear holder assembly on bench and drill a hole through the bearing through the grease zerk hole.
Clean out chips.
Reinstall everything, grease and done.

 

[Vlach7]

Let us know if you do Wolfs recommendation, my L47 has the same issue, I am contemplating between Wolf's advice and leave it. I can only imagine what those parts would cost to replace.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Let us know if you do Wolfs recommendation, my L47 has the same issue, I am contemplating between Wolf's advice and leave it. I can only imagine what those parts would cost to replace.

Fix it now, as the parts are stupid expensive if it damages it.

 

[Henro]

Question from someone who doesn’t have a clue…

Is the net conclusion (after reading this thread) that the base issue is a design defect in the initial L 2501 tractors (and possibly some other models) that was later corrected? I ask because I see the diagram posted by Wolfman says [ OLD]…

Second question would be: If grease is going in, are we assuming that because it’s not oozing out somewhere it’s also not providing any lubrication where needed?

 

[Vlach7]

Question from someone who doesn’t have a clue…

Is the net conclusion (after reading this thread) that the base issue is a design defect in the initial L 2501 tractors (and possibly some other models) that was later corrected? I ask because I see the diagram posted by Wolfman says [ OLD]…

Second question would be: If grease is going in, are we assuming that because it’s not oozing out somewhere it’s also not providing any lubrication where needed?

Earlier in the discussion, you see he was talking about using a very high-pressure grease gun and not getting any in, that is the same with me. You’re pumping against a wall where none is going in and Wolfman discussed how you could pull it apart and drill through the plate that it would get to where it needs to go. It appears to be an issue that should have been addressed by Kabota.

 

[Henro]

Earlier in the discussion, you see he was talking about using a very high-pressure grease gun and not getting any in, that is the same with me. You’re pumping against a wall where none is going in and Wolfman discussed how you could pull it apart and drill through the plate that it would get to where it needs to go. It appears to be an issue that should have been addressed by Kabota.

I recall that, but it was mentioned by someone else in the thread that you can blow a seal with the high pressure and grease would fill the "torque tube" (caused the Wolfman to ROFL) and implied it would not appear visually, so I did not assume the grease was not going in...but I do remember a picture showing a clean hole, but assumed it was after it was cleaned out for the picture.

 

[Russell King]

If you look at the picture the hole is clear of grease but there appears to be a solid steel bushing (bearing) blocking the entrance of grease to get between the pin and the bushing.

NIW suggests to fix it by drilling the hole that may be missing or perhaps the bushing is installed incorrectly

Edit: added last word “incorrectly”

 

[TheOldHokie]

The manual says apply lube to front zerm until grease comes out the breather. You did that- move on.

Dan

 

[Vlach7]

The manual says apply lube until grease comes out the overflow. You did that- move on.

Dan

View attachment 166178

Yes, the zerk and breather plug on the anterior of the front axle work fine, its the one on the posterior side of the front axle with no breather plug is not greaseable, "NO" movement of grease.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes, the zerk and breather plug on the anterior of the front axle work fine, its the one on the posterior side of the front axle with no breather plug is not greaseable, "NO" movement of grease.

The ops manual makes no mention of it. Wonder why?

 

[whitetiger]

It was mentioned by someone else in the thread that you can blow a seal with the high pressure and grease would fill the "torque tube" (caused the Wolfman to ROFL) and implied it would not appear visually,

That was in post #8. There is no seal to blow out, and the grease just fills up the shield around the front propeller shaft( not torque tube). If even more grease is added, it will start filling the clutch housing, which could hold several cases of grease.

If the OP really is curious if he is pumping grease, all he needs to do is slide back the front section of the propeller cover. It will tell the tale quickly and accurately.

 

[Vlach7]

That was in post #8. There is no seal to blow out, and the grease just fills up the shield around the front propeller shaft( not torque tube). If even more grease is added, it will start filling the clutch housing, which could hold several cases of grease.

If the OP really is curious if he is pumping grease, all he needs to do is slide back the front section of the propeller cover. It will tell the tale quickly and accurately.

Not to Highjack his post, this is what mine looks like, prob 800hr grease. Looks like I will be attempting Wolfs recommendation myself. Wolf is your instructions the same for a L47?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Not to Highjack his post, this is what mine looks like, prob 800hr grease. Looks like I will be attempting Wolfs recommendation myself. Wolf is your instructions the same for a L47?

You don't need to do anything as you are getting grease past the zerk and it's coming out the cover, which is what you want.
Just use a little less grease and you'll be fine.

 

[Vlach7]

You don't need to do anything as you are getting grease past the zerk and it's coming out the cover, which is what you want.
Just use a little less grease and you'll be fine.

I wonder if the front zerk is greasing it because the rear one is definitely a dead head.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I wonder if the front zerk is greasing it because the rear one is definitely a dead head.

Nope, not possible.

 

[Vlach7]

Nope, not possible.

Could that grease be from when it was originally put together in 2016? It has 800 hours on it now?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Could that grease be from when it was originally put together in 2016? It has 800 hours on it now?

Could be, but not very likely.

 

[Vlach7]

The rear zerk fitting pivot pin on my L2501 won't accept any grease. Model year is 2020 and has only 125 hours.
(The front zerk was no problem as I had to remove the plug first. Then grease came out the overflow).

After removing the rear zerk fitting to make sure it was not clogged, I then cleaned out the hole and all I saw was clean metal underneath and no channel for grease to enter the bushing.

Maybe the bushing rotated out of position ? Any thoughts from you guys how to rotate it back or any other tips rather than getting into a big disassembly mess like dropping the axle ?

Thanks all ! View attachment 166028 View attachment 166029

HG1 think I figured out mine at least, so simple seems stupid, I backed out my zerk 1 turn, It then was able to accept grease so I put in 1/2 a tube.

 

[Shawn T. W]

If your "problem" was the zerk was too long and bottomed out ... Just file the end off a tad ... Only needs a pump or two ...