G5200 Not getting fuel, shut down valve stuck

[davidcrayne]

I just purchased a G5200 mower with the D600 engine. It won't start due to lack of fuel and I purchased it that way. The engine stop valve is stuck and won't move either way and I assume this is why it won't run. I need to remove the 3 fuel lines to the throttle/governor and remove the top to see what has the stop lever stuck. Is there anything related to the injection system that will need retuned if I take this apart, or has anyone else seen this issue and knows what the problem my be?

Thanks,
David

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What your calling the "throttle/governor" is the fuel injection pump and you do not just tear into it. removing the wrong bolts like the six that hold the delivery valves in place can damage the entire pump.

Stop and get the WSM, so you know what your dealing with.
Sorry there is no cheap or free download for that model.
The tractor WSM is different than the engine WSM
Engine WSM P/N 97897-00782
Tractor WSM P/N 97897-11030

 

[davidcrayne]

Wolfman, thanks for the answer and that is what I suspected. I will order the WSM and I always do for everything I own. I was just hoping to be able to determine what was wrong with it before the manual arrives. Is there a common issue with the engine shut off that would cause it to be stuck in one position? I am sure that I will have to remove the injector pump to be able to find out what is in a bind anyway.
Thanks again,
BTW is there any place to purchase the WSM that is downloadable so I don't have to wait for one to be mailed.

David

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sadly probably not, dealers usually don't even have a digital copy.
you could ask your local dealer just in case.

In order to remove the speed and stop control, you will need to access the spring that control it, and to do that you'll need to open the side cover and remove the injection pump.

Remove the lines( but do not touch the 6 cap screw around the delivery valves) just remove the 4 cap screws on the perimeter.

Pull the pump strait up, there will be a notch in the block that the control rack pin will need to come up through, do not force it up.

Once out, check the rack for full, smooth movement, if it doesn't move there is your issue. If it does then move onto checking the linkage and see if it now moves?

If it does not move, you'll need to pull the control plate and be careful as there are 2 springs attached that go to the governor, and if you drop them into the engine it's rebuild time!

 

[davidcrayne]

I removed the injector pump and the rail that should slide back and forth was stuck. The middle cam follower was loose in the bore and I could not feel any spring compression when I tried to push it in like I did with the outside ones. So it seems like the spring is either stuck, collapsed or broken. The cam follower moves up and down in the bore with out any resistance. I did remove the cover plate on for the slide rail and the 2 outside adjusters move back and forth easy, but the middle one is almost impossible to move. So I may have to either rebuild the injector pump or buy one. I will post pictures of it disassembled. Thanks for the drawings and directions.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Most places will not even give you core charge back on a stuck injection pump.
If you don't find anything, I've rebuilt quite a few of them, just send me a PM.