Fuel tank cleaning questions/advice

[lupin36]

I was having fuel related problems and finally figured out that the fuel lines coming out of the tanks were clogged. Blew them out with air and they run well. I cut open the fuel filters and they were clean. I am assuming sludge in the tank so I am planning on pulling and cleaning the tanks on a 5040 and 7040 and have some questions. I was thinking on using a solvent such as MEK or acetone to break up the sludge or maybe using a degreaser such as Purple Power and then a pressure washer. I plan on drying them out completely before reinstalling them.

Any thoughts on this procedure?
Thanks for any input

 

[Bulldog]

Welcome to OTT.

I don't know of any certain process to clean a tank. It sounds like you have as good a plan as any. I have done a few and most of the time it sux in one way or another. Main thing is get the crap out and then make sure it's clean and dry before you put it back on. For a final step I will pour in a small amount of diesel and shake it around to make sure all the water is out. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[300zx]

I cleaned a half inch of sludge out of the bottom of my B2150 tank by removing the fuel sender and shooting a high temp pressure washer in the sender hole and letting it drain out of the filler hole. It took three shots, but it got it. A car wash wand would probably work as well. Then rinse like Bulldog recommended. I ended up with a pin hole leak that I had to plug with JB weld.

Good Luck,
John in VA

 

[Stubbyie]

If fuel tank is plastic the use of MEK or acetone MIGHT weaken the plastic, especially gaskets or seals or welds. Just something to be aware.

If you're going to wash it anyway, just hose it the best you can and rinse and repeat until clean if possible. Try using gasoline or solvent to cut the gunk and then drugstore cheap (high percentage, buck a quart at WM) rubbing alcohol to dry it out.

If tank is metal and old be prepared for pinhole leak(s) after cleaning. Auto restoration supply houses have a fuel tank sealer--"Red Seal", I think it is-- that's not cheap but works when directions are followed.

Replace all fuel lines and filter while at it. If your filter has the little spring in the bottom of the bowl don't lose it.

Post back and advise how you proceed that we may all learn.

 

[lupin36]

Thanks for the responses. Tanks are plastic so no worries about pinhole leaks..I hope. I am a bit concerned with using solvent so I believe I will just use the Purple Power degreaser to break up the sludge.....pretty amazing stuff. GOOD idea with the alcohol to dry. I also plan to use my wet/dry vac to blow out the tank to dry. Thanks again for the advice and I will post some pics of the process.

 

[02trike]

Hello everyone I am a new member and not sure how this procedure works so if I'm doing this wrong someone let me know.
I have a similar problem with a G5200H fuel tank. It is plastic and suppose to be see through in order to see your fuel level but mine is so dark I have no idea how much fuel is left. Any ideas of how to clean it back to it's see through state.
Would appreciate any help with this, I just purchased this tractor and know nothing about it I need manuals, does anyone know where to go to get really free downloads on service manuals. Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[hodge]

I would add that once you have the tanks cleaned, finished up, and reinstalled, you may want to add some biocide to your fuel, in case there is any lingering bacteria. You will have cleaned any chunks, but might as well kill anything left microbially. Fungal bacteria can grow in any fuel, especially diesel.

 

[Stubbyie]

Also have a small engine with a clear stripe supposed to be viewable to see fuel level. Have been unable to find anything I felt comfortable using that would clean the clear plastic stripe.

If you find something that works I'd be interested.

If you can get a rag onto the stripe internally you can try wiping it down with any solvent you feel good about. I'm thinking MEK might be be detrimental to tank, especially that the clear stripe might be less robust than rest of tank.

Replacing the tank is an option with some cost but the problem will reoccur.

On one of ours that has the wide-mouth tank fill I drilled a hole right below the filler and fished a 1/4-in bulkhead fitting down into and through the hole. I slathered it good with RTV, seated it, and made up the outer nut and let it sit a week. Then used brass 90 to a 1/8-in ball valve to a barb and a piece of Tygon clear tubing. Just bring the tubing up and lash it to side of tank somehow and plug one of those little fishing bobber red-disk fuel filters into it. As long as the tube sees atmosphere it will show the same level as in tank. Replace tubing every few years with it gets dark.

You can do about the same thing by cutting the fuel line and installing a T (with a valve---cheap plastic barbed fuel shutoff valve) and stringing a piece of clear tubing up where you can see it. On the particular tank above, it was actually easier to use the fitting than get to and splice the fuel line with required fittings. Crimp the tube end or use one of those little filters to keep trash out.

Please post back and advise how you proceed that we may all learn.