Front end loader install

Truckedup

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Mar 20, 2014
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My first post....I just bought a 1980 7100 tractor for my wife. The machine came with a complete Allied loader kit ,not installed....It has factory instructions
Background, I build custom and race motorcycles, have a fully equipped shop so in theory this should be a piece of cake :D
The machine had a Kubota brand belly mower . I stripped off all the mower parts including the front electric PTO clutch and all brackets.
I see a small hydraulic pump on the right rear of the engine, two pipes running back to the 3 point lift . I assume the 3 point uses gear oil like a Ford N ? I assume the loader lift cylinders use the same oil supply?
No... I haven't rear the directions yet...I'm just getting some info on tractor functions before I start. Thanks
 

skeets

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BX 2360 /B2601
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Welcome to the orange, well my friend you should just have a weekend tied up them playing around in the shop,,lol, that should be pretty straight forward, and if it aint you have the stuff to make it so,,.. And remember pictures man we love picture,,, there are a lot of guys in here that have forgotten more than I know about these little beastes so just ask and you shall receive it might take a bit but somebody will have an answer
 

Truckedup

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Ok, here's a photo from this morning after removing the belly mower and brackets. 730 hours on the meter and I believe it was only used for mowing as the three point hitch shows no wear. All warning labels intact and the overall finish says it was stored indoors.

 

North Idaho Wolfman

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That does look like a pretty mint tractor.
On the loader side of things, yes that pump runs the three point, and yes it uses gear or hydraulic oil, there might/should be a rectangle block attached to the bell housing in line with the smaller hydraulic pressure line, this is where you can tap into that pump, they sell a plate for just that hook up, if there is no block then you will have to cut into the smaller line.
Here is the bad side, it is a very small pump and the loader will be slow because of that, most of those models used a separate pump that was attached to the front of the motor, off of the crank, to get better performance out of the loader. ;)
 

skeets

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Yup shes a nice one,, now about the 2 wheeled beasties behind it
 

Rob

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yep, welcome to you , you'll find an endless amount of help and info here on OTT:D:cool:
It is you're one-stop sorce for all things Orange and tractor based, and more;)

nice 7100 there, looks like its had a nice well looked after life so far.

Ohhh yes , allmost forgot, welcome to another like minded biker:D:cool: not only an orange owner but a bike fan to, good onya.:)

rob
 

Truckedup

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Wolfman, thanks for the info. The smaller diameter tube goes directly from pump to the three point. I have to dig into the loader kit to see what's in there. Supposedly Allied supplies every thing, hoses, control valves etc. The kit is on the way to my place as we speak...
Info on the Internet says a 7100 manual tranny pump is 3 GPM. Allied says 5 GPM, but that appears to be a generic rating for even a a few larger loaders.The bucket is rated for maybe 600 pounds (not that a lightweight tractor can handle that weigh0 The cylinders are 1.5 diameter ...Hopefully it'll be fast enough...If not...just spend more money :rolleyes:-

The bikes in the background? The one on the right is a modified 60's Triumph 650 LSR (land speed racing) that holds the current ECTA class record. The other is my rider,85 Moto Guzzi 1000 "bobber" There's also a mid engine car made from 1930's Ford driveline parts with a cigar shaped F-86 wing tank body I'm building.

 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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One trick is to get a Hydraulic pump from a B8200 as it has a 6.5 GPM output and will fit your motor seamlessly, and another option is to swap the D750 for a D950, I did that with mine and it's a rock star, 16 HP to 21.5 HP is a nice jump, also gained a water pump and an alternator with that swap.
 
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Truckedup

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One trick is to get a Hydraulic pump from a B8200 as it has a 6.5 GPM output and will fit your motor seamlessly, and another option is to swap the D750 for a D950, I did that with mine and it's a rock star, 16 HP to 21.5 HP is a nice jump, also gained a water pump and an alternator with that swap.
Seamlessly meaning bolt on with no fabrication? Allied claims their FEL is designed to work with the 7100 hydraulics...From my experience building bikes I tend to be suspect of such claims, so I'll keep your suggestion handy...
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
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Seamlessly meaning bolt on with no fabrication? Allied claims their FEL is designed to work with the 7100 hydraulics...From my experience building bikes I tend to be suspect of such claims, so I'll keep your suggestion handy...
Yes both the motor swap and the pump swap are bolt in operations, there is only a minimal mod needed to the radiator if you did the motor swap.
 

Truckedup

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Thanks.......My wife drove the tractor around our property to check it out. She says it has a precision feel and turns on a dime. The ground is thawing and soon our woods will be nice mud to test the four wheel drive.
 

kubotasam

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I have three B7100 tractors. Two of them have separate hydraulic pumps for the loader. The other uses the pump on the engine that is designed for the 3 point hitch. The loader on this tractor is much slower than the other 2. If you are going to be using the loader much you will want to find a method to increase the hydraulic flow to the loader. Wolfman always has good suggestions. Or you could try a pump driven off the front of the crankshaft. However the parts to make the connection to the crank are expensive and hard to find.
 

Truckedup

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I fabricate hand made parts for motorcycles and hot rods so a pump mounting and drive shaft is no problem. 6-8 gpm hydraulic pumps are about 200 bucks for a cheap one,I have no idea what a larger Kubota pump costs. My wife is going to use the machine so I'll see what she says.