front diff splines

summit1966

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Sep 26, 2017
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Hi all,

Set about replacing couplers on the front driveshaft and I've noticed that the splines that come out of the front diff are completely worn down. What are my options? How do I remove the shaft out of the front diff?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Hi all,

Set about replacing couplers on the front driveshaft and I've noticed that the splines that come out of the front diff are completely worn down. What are my options? How do I remove the shaft out of the front diff?
Your options are not good, the only real option is to replace the front ring and pinion gears, they need to replaced as a set. ;)
 

SRG

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Sorry to hi-jack but it pertains to the problem.
I never see anyone mention this when talking about ring and pinion gear sets, in tractor axles. Do they need to be installed like vehicle ring and pinions, involving shimming vs. wear patterns, and pre-loading of pinion bearings?
 

rbargeron

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technically, the amswer is yes. Proper gear setup involves precise contact pattern verification with plasti-guages etc.

But in fact this is most important for gears in automotive applications where high-speed and many thousands of miles are expected. IMHO the homeowner tractor just needs them to mesh and turn without binding to give satisfactory service for many years. They'll wear in to functioning fit and perform just fine for a very long time.
 
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Lil Foot

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When I tore down/cleaned/rebuilt/resealed my '79 B7100 front axle, the ring & pinion set had shims just like an automotive differential. I would have to assume that the correct wear pattern/contact area is not as critical as a high speed application, but still necessary.
 

GeoHorn

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As a former rear-axle specialist for Toyota I can add this comment:
The automotive differentials are especially sensitive to generating noise and the hydraulic brake lines will conduct that noise to the brake master cylinder which is mounted on the firewall which, in turn, is a wonderful sound-box.

"Noise" (Toyota Rear Axle School at Gulf States Toyota) is defined as "objectionable sound". It was and is horrible in a typical vehicle if the ring/pinion do not run silently. The tooth/heel/depth the ring/pinion gears face can generator quite a noise if not finely adjusted, and the family auto is a closed compartment surrounded by structure that conduct that sound. We spent many hours in training to learn how to adjust/shim/pre-load those gears and bearings.

This is unlikely to be a problem in a tractor, as you might imagine. Sooo***8230; simply make certain the gears mesh within their center orbits of their gear teeth. A good way to do this is use Prussian-blue smeared on the faces of the teeth and rotate the assembled gears while still on the bench. Then you can use the shims (and any bearing pre-load) to adjust the pinion depth so the Prussian-blue wear pattern centers on the gear teeth...and you're good to go.
Now close up the unit, add the gear oil and reinstall.

Hope this helps.
 

Chilliwack Murray

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I’ll second everything in the last post, I rebuilt diffs in highway trucks for years.

I will however recommend using white lead paste (not made of lead anymore) or similar to find the mark. It’s much easier to see the contact area especially for a beginner.