Folding ATV, UTV, Golf Cart Trailer

NorthwoodsLife

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Had one of these delivered last week. Primary use is for my Polaris Rzr. My Rzr is just like the one in the picture. 2 seater, Turbo. Etc.

Screenshot_20240113_214711_Chrome.jpg


My concern is the hinges used for folding it. It's powder coated but it appears that the two hinges are 3/8" steel. With a 3/8" steel bolt as the hinge pins. One on each side of the trailer. Under acceleration most of the Rzr's weight will be on the back half. Only those two hinges keep the front and back half together!

20240113_215122.jpg


My concern is the cantilever effect with my 1,500 lb Rzr on it. I'm concerned about breaking the trailer in half and watch my Rzr do cartwheels on the hiway behind me. I'm considering adding a few ubolts at the front and back half connection. Instead of trusting two 3/8" hinge bolts.

Anyone with experience with these trailers,, or advice, please advise.

Or, I migjt be over'thinking it!

 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Warning this is 100% opinion!
If you have to add things to a new trailer to make it safe, stable or to ease your mind, send it back!
It isn't designed or built properly!

There does not appear to be any lock on the folding part, am I right on that asumption?

This is flat stupid, you don't tie things down to something that moves!
1705215784505.png
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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Warning this is 100% opinion!
If you have to add things to a new trailer to make it safe, stable or to ease your mind, send it back!
It isn't designed or built properly!

There does not appear to be any lock on the folding part, am I right on that asumption?

This is flat stupid, you don't tie things down to something that moves!
View attachment 120164
Thank you.

This trailer checks all the boxes regarding what I need.

There IS a lock. But it doesn't hold the front and back half together. But, it just prevents upward travel of the rear half. More info tomorrow.... I'm off to bed.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Real curious as to why the OP doesn't have room to store a 'regular' trailer ?

$3K US is just over $4K in Canuck bucks. I can build TWO trailers for that amount of coins,similar 'design specs' but NO 'user assembly required'.

Powder coat is the Devil's 'paint'. Looks real pretty until it gets ONE cut, scratch, nick in it, then rust will form very, very quickly. Saw a 'Snowbear' (Home depot sold them) trailer in scrap yard. 4 years old,looked like 40 years old,as powdercoat allowed water/salt to get to get to steel.

Tubular steel, IF properly treated INSIDE and out is 'ok' but there's no way that trailer tubing was prepped properly.

Sigh.. BOLTED tongue !! Another screwy Snowbear design...nut comes off bolt, bolt wiggles out, tongue stays with car, UTV and trailer go down the highway..... Check the bolt heads for 'grade'

One issue, stability ; is where the wheels are relative to the bed of the trailer.They should be 60% from the front of the bed.so 100" bed, tires need to be 60" from the front edge of the bed( NOT the tongue ! )

OK, it looks nice but ask to see ones that are 5 years old and used every weekend, year round.
If it works for the OP..as it came out of the box, fine but needing to 'upgrade' for basic safety issues is a huge red flag for me.
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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Thanks to all for the valid input. I would be scratching my head too wondering why someone would want such a thing! So here's why I bought it:

>Our vacation property has a small driveway, no room for a "real" trailer. Our Rzr is at that property, and not at home in WI.

>My 26' PJ equipment trailer is at home in WI, and its overkill for a SXS. And as mentioned there's no room for it at vaca property.

>This little trailer is needed for short trips generally. But then one very long trip home to WI when we sell the vacation home in a year or so and take the Rzr home. I have utility trailers in WI but they aren't big enough for the Rzr.

>This little trailer will be pulled by our Jeep Gladiator which has a 6,000 lb tow rating, and my PJ equipment trailer weighs around 4,000 to 5,000 lbs empty.

>Edit: One more reason: Renting a Uhaul car hauler is about $300. If I use this trailer 10 times it paid for itself. And I'll still have a trailer.

That's it in a nutshell. It's a temporary stop-gap for our situation. I don't expect this to be a heirloom my kids will inherit.

Wolfman: The back half has cheesy latches to keep it from folding upward. That's why I'm thinking ubolts top and bottom where the front and back half meet. Was hoping you all may have a better idea.

Jay: The tongue and hitch are all welded. Valid point regarding the powder coat. Regarding stability it looks to be 60/40. Reviews say it pulls very well. I'll find out.
 
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jimh406

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It says it is 2000 lb capacity with 530 lb empty weight. I think that means it has 2500 lb axle.

I don't know how much your Razor weighs, but my guess is you are pushing the capacity if you have aftermarket tires, a winch or any accessories.

For me, you are cutting it really close.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Well latches / locks on the back wing are better, couldn't see them in pics.
I get the folding idea and the small foot print when not in use not everyone has 10+ acers to work with.
So maybe the U-bolts are the best form of insurance / prevention.
I would get them big enough to put a piece of fuel line over the bolt to keep it from damaging the powder coat.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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That's a METRIC bolt holding tongue onto trailer AND the 2 safety chains.....
hmm.. I googled them, seems there are a few colour versions of them ,up to $7000 ! Though one says 'made in USA', I really suspect ASSEMBLED in USA, meaning welding done in ,um, ah, China ??? heck WHO in the USA uses METRIC in their builds ??

If there's a sticker on the axle, post it ! That'll help decide what the 'capacity' is. Most trailer sellers will list the AXLE limit and the empty weight so YOU have to figure out the 'payload' weight. I suspect it's a 2000# axle, so real 'payload' will be 2000-530- other stuff,like chains,binders, etc.
Tire rating is important and good for clues too.
quik look shows 2000# torsion axles are $700+ US$ !!!

Thanks for the explanation as to why you bought it. Having 3+ decades of building trailers and seeing a LOT of 'commercially built' JUNK I just didn't want to see you get 'taken' as there are always options.

BTW be sure to check the wheel bearings for grease !
 
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Lil Foot

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Oh crap! You are correct. Pics. View attachment 120193
Should be fine as long as you cross the safety chains. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Sorry, I could not resist. :)

One of the guys in our dune group used a trailer similar to that for 10+ years, hauling a golf cart, then a rhino, then a RZR, with no problems whatsoever.
But we don't have much problem with rust out here.
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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It's a Chineseium copy of a USA tubular design. The US vesion is dbl the price, but includes registration which I could care less about.
I always buy US or Canada made if its a small margin. But considering that its double the price, and I only need it a couple years.... I went Chinese.
I mentioned 3/8" bolt because it's powder coated. No acurate caliper measure with powder coat. Yeah, I'm sure it's metric, 10, 11 or 12 mm.
Not a stronge enuf hinge.
 

NorthwoodsLife

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Trailer hooked to my Jeep truck. 1st time.
At vacation property.
20240114_113149.jpg
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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It says it is 2000 lb capacity with 530 lb empty weight. I think that means it has 2500 lb axle.

I don't know how much your Razor weighs, but my guess is you are pushing the capacity if you have aftermarket tires, a winch or any accessories.

For me, you are cutting it really close.
My Rzr is 1500 lbs. Give or take 1 or 2 hundred for fuel and it has a winch.

It definitly is close.
 

NorthwoodsLife

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Well latches / locks on the back wing are better, couldn't see them in pics.
I get the folding idea and the small foot print when not in use not everyone has 10+ acers to work with.
So maybe the U-bolts are the best form of insurance / prevention.
I would get them big enough to put a piece of fuel line over the bolt to keep it from damaging the powder coat.
Here ya go.
20240114_081118.jpg


Not good for even 500 lbs in my guestimate.
 

rc51stierhoff

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Trailer hooked to my Jeep truck. 1st time.
At vacation property. View attachment 120203
How was backing that new trailer with such a short tongue?

I have a small offroad teardrop camper, that has a short tongue (lock n roll articulating hitch) and wide wheels/fenders…two things I would mention about a short tongue:

1. They turn incredibly sharp…sharper than you may be used too.
2. Regarding fuel ups and gas stations, if someone not used to pulling a trailer (such as a spousal unit or friend) can very easily wrap it around concrete pilings. (Although I suspect by the pictures yours may track pretty true to the vehicle as the wheels don’t look too wide…maybe a non issue with yours?)

Good luck and keep the rubber side down. 👍
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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How was backing that new trailer with such a short tongue?

I have a small offroad teardrop camper, that has a short tongue (lock n roll articulating hitch) and wide wheels/fenders…two things I would mention about a short tongue:

1. They turn incredibly sharp…sharper than you may be used too.
2. Regarding fuel ups and gas stations, if someone not used to pulling a trailer (such as a spousal unit or friend) can very easily wrap it around concrete pilings. (Although I suspect by the pictures yours may track pretty true to the vehicle as the wheels don’t look too wide…maybe a non issue with yours?)

Good luck and keep the rubber side down. 👍
Yep@ I never try to back up a trailer shorter than the tow vehicle. By the time you realize that the trailer is going the wrong direction, its completely start over time.

Been there, done that too.

Thanks

Thats why I got the wheeled jack on the trailer.
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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That's a METRIC bolt holding tongue onto trailer AND the 2 safety chains.....
hmm.. I googled them, seems there are a few colour versions of them ,up to $7000 ! Though one says 'made in USA', I really suspect ASSEMBLED in USA, meaning welding done in ,um, ah, China ??? heck WHO in the USA uses METRIC in their builds ??

If there's a sticker on the axle, post it ! That'll help decide what the 'capacity' is. Most trailer sellers will list the AXLE limit and the empty weight so YOU have to figure out the 'payload' weight. I suspect it's a 2000# axle, so real 'payload' will be 2000-530- other stuff,like chains,binders, etc.
Tire rating is important and good for clues too.
quik look shows 2000# torsion axles are $700+ US$ !!!

Thanks for the explanation as to why you bought it. Having 3+ decades of building trailers and seeing a LOT of 'commercially built' JUNK I just didn't want to see you get 'taken' as there are always options.

BTW be sure to check the wheel bearings for grease !
Thank you.

I'm checking the hub to spindle nut torque and packing the bearings today.

I'm guessing that the spindle nut is way too tight.

No axle tag or sticker... but this on the tongue..
20240114_122158.jpg


Tires...

20240114_122317.jpg


C rated
 

wp6529

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A few things you may be overlooking:

- The pictures all show the utv backed onto the trailer so the engine and fuel weight is on the fixed part of the trailer and much of that is becoming tongue weight on the tow vehicle.
- The trailer axle does not carry the tongue weight. Indeed this is part of the definition of a semi-trailer, a portion of the weight is carried by the tow vehicle. The only common on road full-trailers are a semi-trailer with a converter dolly, i.e. the 2nd or 3rd trailer in a double or tripple rig.
- The weight shift under acceleration is far less than you might imagine.

Go to a truck stop and scale the utv, I bet the front axle weight is far less than the rear axle weight.

The shear strength on that bolt is likely greater than the strength of the brackets it connects to. I don't care for the single shear design though, I would have doubled those brackets so they are stronger, more resistant to bending and the bolt is in a tripple shear configuration. That may not matter much if the front of the utv is only 600# or something.
 
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jimh406

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The company seems to be math challenged. :D If the GAWR is 2250 lbs and weighs 530 lbs, then the capacity for the RAZR is only 1720 or 280 lbs less than they say. Unless I‘m math challenged. ;)