And run the compressor after the tires are filled to purge it out.It won't hurt it if it's running and blowing air before you attach it to the valve stem, so yes a non issue.
Ray
FEL is crooked
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Ray
Grouse Feathers
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BX2370, FEL, Snowblower-BX5455, Homebuilt Forks, LP RB1560, LP GS1548
Put the loader bucket on the ground with some down force, that will keep the front end from pivoting on the pin. I just put put rear wheel spacers on my BX, I jacked it up in the center on the drawbar with the bucket on the ground to stabilize the front end. I took the rear wheels off one at a time with no problem. To check the tires you will still have the wheels on and will just be up enough to clear the ground.Thanks D2, Larry, now it makes sense, the plane of movement is vertical. Couldn't see the pin, too much stuff up there, but looks designed to allow axle to move relative to driveshaft. Bet that's why there are all those grease fittings under there ...
Ron, I looked at where Kubota recommends you jack up the tractor in the rear, and it may be a cold day you know where before I try that out. In the owner's manual they have exactly 3 sentences on how to do it.
"Before jacking up the tractor park it on firm and level ground and chock the front wheels". Ok.
"Fix the front axle to keep it from swinging". Huh? How??
"Select a jack that withstands the machine weight and set it up as shown below. "(Arrow points to the receptacle for the draw bar). Seems like it would teeter if balanced on that.
Pretty sparse. I imagine there is more information elsewhere, since this is a major safety issue, but my car has better info on jacking than this. Another learning issue...tomorrow!
Put that way Larry, it doesn't sounds so bad after all. Just have to keep the toes out from under those wheels thanks, everyone, there are a bunch of good tips in this thread!
thanks, everyone, there are a bunch of good tips in this thread!You DO NOT have to jack the tractor up and take weight off of the tires to check the pressure.
Put the valve up at the 12:00 position to minimize fluid loss/mess. Don't make it any more complicated or worse unsafe than need be.
Put the valve up at the 12:00 position to minimize fluid loss/mess. Don't make it any more complicated or worse unsafe than need be.
Ok and the rest of the story...
The tech from my dealer's place came out when my flail was delivered and we had a go at leveling that bucket. I had gotten a more substantial compressor and a proper gauge. It turns out nearly all of you were correct on the different aspects of this problem. The pressure was down on the right rear wheel. It could be measured and inflated as Mag Karl and NIW said with the wheel bearing weight. Inflating it to the correct pressure got it almost the same height ground to upper rim as the left one. The bucket was still crooked but better.
So the tech unbolted all the bolts on the loader frame, lifted the front end of the tractor just a hair off the ground, maybe an inch, and retightened all bolts. This is not an activity for the faint of heart. A lot of work on that size tractor. So then the bucket was flat when set down. But then we noticed that if it was picked up off the ground it wasn't exactly parallel. He said that there was some play in the pins that attach the loader to the tractor, but if he fixed that it might be hard to get on and off. So we called it good. As long as it sets down flat that is what is needed.
So the only spot not discussed previously is the pin attachment sites. My perspective is that the fastest and easiest check is to take a tape measure to the rear wheels before doing anything else.
For those of you that haven't seen the effect of the pivot pin discussed above, when the front of the tractor is lifted a little by the loader you can see it when you push down on one of the wheels. It is very graphic.
Thanks everyone, I learned a lot!
The tech from my dealer's place came out when my flail was delivered and we had a go at leveling that bucket. I had gotten a more substantial compressor and a proper gauge. It turns out nearly all of you were correct on the different aspects of this problem. The pressure was down on the right rear wheel. It could be measured and inflated as Mag Karl and NIW said with the wheel bearing weight. Inflating it to the correct pressure got it almost the same height ground to upper rim as the left one. The bucket was still crooked but better.
So the tech unbolted all the bolts on the loader frame, lifted the front end of the tractor just a hair off the ground, maybe an inch, and retightened all bolts. This is not an activity for the faint of heart. A lot of work on that size tractor. So then the bucket was flat when set down. But then we noticed that if it was picked up off the ground it wasn't exactly parallel.
He said that there was some play in the pins that attach the loader to the tractor, but if he fixed that it might be hard to get on and off. So we called it good. As long as it sets down flat that is what is needed.So the only spot not discussed previously is the pin attachment sites. My perspective is that the fastest and easiest check is to take a tape measure to the rear wheels before doing anything else.
For those of you that haven't seen the effect of the pivot pin discussed above, when the front of the tractor is lifted a little by the loader you can see it when you push down on one of the wheels. It is very graphic.
Thanks everyone, I learned a lot!