Fair Price For New B3200 and B3300SU

[Beagle]

Hello folks, first post.

I've been doing some research and have narrowed my search down to the JD2720/2032R and B3200 or B3300SU, based on my needs. I went to my nearby Kubota and John Deere dealers today. Was fairly impressed at the Kubota dealer and want to see how their pricing looks to you guys.

First, I have to decide for myself whether I want the ability to have a MMM in the future. I always thought yes, but the more and more I think about it, maybe not. I won't be using the tractor for finish mowing for at least 4-5 years, I wouldn't think (never know though). I always thought the B3200 would be the best bet to retain that ability. Either way, I had them quote me prices for both.

B3300SU with LA504 (loader) and RCR1260 (rotary mower): $13,900 , $3,400 , $1,300 respectively. Total - $18,600.

B3200HSD with LA504 and RCR1260: $19,100.

Got a quote for a ballast box $300, BB1260 (box blade) $550, and DH1060-4 disk harrow $1400.

Can and do guys use the box blade as a ballast that isn't as cumbersome to haul around as a bush hog or disk? Seems like it might be best just to get the box blade vs. the ballast box for ballast.

It was about 10 degrees today, so I will wait to test drive, but I am interested and am curious what you guys think about their pricing? This is the price they gave me without negotiating.

I'm new to tractors.

Thanks!

 

[gpreuss]

It is pretty common to get 10-15% off from the website prices. Some have done much better. Kubota was offering $1000 off for cash, if that is an option to you, and the deal is still on the table.
With HST you'll want cruise control. The B3300SU has bigger back tires - they make a difference when pushing the FEL.
An empty box blade will probably leave you wanting more ballast in the rear, but if you are handy it is easy to make a frame for a bunch of cinder blocks on top of it. The Kubota web site includes the ballast box in their package for the B3300SU.
When I bought you could get a gear drive L3200DT for about the same $$ as theB3300SU, and have 600+lbs more tractor - depending on what you want it for...

 

[chim]

I haven't kept track of prices since I bought my L3200HST about 1-1/2 years ago, but the tractor w/ loader was a whisker under $16K. I ran a B7500 for 10 years before that and prefer the size of the L series. It's beefier and more comfortable to operate. I stuck with HST since i've had tractors with that trans in the last two tractors. I didn't bother with cruise because I never used it in the 20 years I had it on the last two tractors.

 

[Beagle]

Thank you guys.

I am having a really tough time figuring out what I really NEED. I have now thrown the L3200HST into the mix with the B3200HSD and B3300SU.

Originally, I thought about using the tractor as a finish mower in the future. Then I think, well, if you are buying a tractor, buy a dedicated tractor for tractor stuff and buy a zero turn for finish mowing when the time comes (it looks like I will have a lot of obstacles to mow around) instead of buying a tractor as an all around machine. Plan to use the tractor to mow trails, bushhog a couple acres now and again, maintain about 2-3 acres of wildlife food plots and possibly haul some firewood around the property in the loader.

Here is my dilemma. I live about 15-20 miles from my property (52 acres we plan to build on and move out to in about 4-5 years). I have no structure out there and don't want to leave my equipment outside, so I will be trailering the tractor back and forth each time. I've got a 2006 Chevy Silverado extended cab 4x4 with the towing package. Trailerability is a big factor for me.

I would describe the terrain as "rolling hills". Most of the areas that I will be maintaining with the tractor are flat enough that I will feel comfortable on them. MY BIGGEST ISSUE IS THAT I HAVE A CREEK THAT RUNS THOUGH THE MIDDLE OF MY PROPERTY. It drains well all the time and the water continuously runs. The area that I will cross at will be dry - 3" of water 95% of the year and is about 6' across. To get to this point, I will be driving straight down a hill and then straight be up a hill. I don't know the grade. Guessing 20%-25% for about 50 yards? Carrying the FEL and an implement, is this doable and is the weight of a heavier tractor like the L3200 a good thing or bad thing in a situation like this? Would the R1 tires be better or should I compromise with the R4's in case I want to use the tractor for finish mowing in the future?

I know that I wouldn't be able to cross the creek with a MMM installed. The B3200 is the only one with a mid PTO. I won't however, be doing any finish mowing across the creek so no big deal I guess. What about the position vs. the quarter inching lift? This will be my first tractor, but from what I've read, it sounds like the position wins out using the 3 point?

Lots of question, but what sounds best for a guy like me? Is the L3200 going to be too heavy or is it an advantage? Would the B3300SU work well for what I am describing or is it not enough tractor?

I'm about to go crazy!!!

Thanks.

 

[gpreuss]

Generally, weight is a good thing. Just like with your pickup, which will get stuck on damp grass in 2WD, if you don't have some weight on the bed.
With 52 acres I'd go for the L3200/3800; a lot more tractor for very little more money. If you go with the B series, you will always think you should have gotten the L. If you go for the L, you'll never look back...
Trailering is a wash for any of your options, although in truth the tractor will not care a whole lot if it is left outside for a few years until you get a building.
Every now and again you see an ad for an old truck or trailer flat bed; they make a fine bridge for that creek.
I just shifted from R4s to R1s on my L3200. The R4s just did not have the grip.

 

[85Hokie]

Thank you guys.

I am having a really tough time figuring out what I really NEED. I have now thrown the L3200HST into the mix with the B3200HSD and B3300SU.

Originally, I thought about using the tractor as a finish mower in the future. Then I think, well, if you are buying a tractor, buy a dedicated tractor for tractor stuff and buy a zero turn for finish mowing when the time comes (it looks like I will have a lot of obstacles to mow around) instead of buying a tractor as an all around machine. Plan to use the tractor to mow trails, bushhog a couple acres now and again, maintain about 2-3 acres of wildlife food plots and possibly haul some firewood around the property in the loader.

Here is my dilemma. I live about 15-20 miles from my property (52 acres we plan to build on and move out to in about 4-5 years). I have no structure out there and don't want to leave my equipment outside, so I will be trailering the tractor back and forth each time.

GET A DOUBLE AXLE TRAILER, 18' NO LESS, WITH BRAKES ON BOTH IF YOU CAN GET IT THAT WAY, DONT SKIMP HERE !!!


I've got a 2006 Chevy Silverado extended cab 4x4 with the towing package. Trailerability is a big factor for me.

I would describe the terrain as "rolling hills". Most of the areas that I will be maintaining with the tractor are flat enough that I will feel comfortable on them. MY BIGGEST ISSUE IS THAT I HAVE A CREEK THAT RUNS THOUGH THE MIDDLE OF MY PROPERTY. It drains well all the time and the water continuously runs. The area that I will cross at will be dry - 3" of water 95% of the year and is about 6' across.

THAT MMM WILL GO ACROSS THAT FINE, IF'N IT IS ONLY THAT DEEP, NO WORRIES BOUT THAT, AND THAT MMM IS A TOUGH MACHINE, NOT TO SAY IT SHOULD BE USED AS A TRUE BRUSH HOG, BUT IT WILL CHEW UP A LOT OF STUFF THAT YOU WOULD NOT CUT WITH YOUR RIDER.


To get to this point, I will be driving straight down a hill and then straight be up a hill. I don't know the grade. Guessing 20%-25% for about 50 yards?


THAT IS A PRETTY GOOD GRADE GOING UP......I HAVE A 23% THAT I HAVE NEVER ATTEMPTED TO GO UP! (BACK HOE ATTACHED) BUT GOING DOWN IS NOT BAD! LOVE THE HST TOO!


Carrying the FEL and an implement, is this doable and is the weight of a heavier tractor like the L3200 a good thing or bad thing in a situation like this? Would the R1 tires be better or should I compromise with the R4's in case I want to use the tractor for finish mowing in the future?

WEIGHT IS ALWAYS GOOD, UNLESS IT IS ABOVE THE CENTERLINE OF THE MACHINE........LOADED TIRES IS WITHOUT A DOUBT THE BEST WAY TO INCREASE TRACTION AND STABILITY, SCOOP OF DIRT HELPS, REAR END LOADED IS GREAT TOO.....TIRES ARE THE BEST!

I know that I wouldn't be able to cross the creek with a MMM installed. The B3200 is the only one with a mid PTO. I won't however, be doing any finish mowing across the creek so no big deal I guess. What about the position vs. the quarter inching lift? This will be my first tractor, but from what I've read, it sounds like the position wins out using the 3 point?

1/4" IS CHEAPER, BUT THEN AGAIN, WHAT ARE YOU DOING? IF HOGGIN, OR SCRAPING OR STUFF THAT RESTS ON THE GROUND, 1/4" IS FINE, POSITION ON THE OTHER HAND IS MORE $$$ BUT WORTH IT IF YOU ARE PLOWING AND NEED TO HOLD IT AT A CERTAIN SPOT........LIMITER CHAINS ARE WONDERFUL TO ADD TO THE HOG OR WHATEVER.......SET AND FORGET!

Lots of question, but what sounds best for a guy like me? Is the L3200 going to be too heavy or is it an advantage? Would the B3300SU work well for what I am describing or is it not enough tractor?