Does regen have to be terrible?

[jyoutz]

I find loader work to be ok with the gear drive tractor (with hydraulic shuttle) and only moderately more complicated than an HST. Running a PTO powered implement with a gear drive tractor is where I have to stay focused, particularly when making turns when there isn't a lot of room.

Yes, but you have a creeper gear.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

Yes, but you have a creeper gear.

Jerky in any gear at high throttle

 

[jyoutz]

Jerky in any gear at high throttle

Your machine has a problem. My machine doesn’t do that, and I’ve never heard of such an issue.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

Your machine has a problem. My machine doesn’t do that, and I’ve never heard of such an issue.

It's not Jerky at normal RPM but maybe there is indeed. I feel like if you took any diesel to near fully throttle and tried to drive it around with it held there it's gunna be rough to shift. I'll have to try it with one of my other ones.

 

[McMXi]

Yes, but you have a creeper gear.

I only use creep range when driving the tractor on/off the trailer, or hooking up to an implement. I'd also use creep range if I were pulling a mole plow or trying to break up hard pan with a sub soiler.

 

[SDT]

Jerky in any gear at high throttle

Agreed.

Can be with hydraulic reverser transmissions as used in your tractor and many others of similar size.

Less easily feathered than is a dry clutch, especially at high RPM.

 

[fried1765]

Your machine has a problem. My machine doesn’t do that, and I’ve never heard of such an issue.

Do you also have the same model 100 HP Kubota tractor, for comparison?

 

[McMXi]

No it's jolty and Jerky shifting at such high rev. Knock apple bins over or jolt people. It's fine in summer spraying the orchard or mowing.... it's so stupid

After going back to the start of this thread and reading this comment, I remembered that the times I've gone through a regen with the M6060 working, I've simply lowered the rpm to idle, changed gears or direction and then raised the rpm to where they need to be to complete the regen.

Unless you press the regen inhibit button, the ECU is going to go through the process of completing the regen even if the rpm varies. It'll take longer that way, but you can smooth out the tractor operation by driving the tractor as you would normally i.e. lower rpm for shifts and direction changes, but get the rpm back up so that that rpm light on the dash goes out.

Your other option is to press the regen inhibit button and do the regen at a more convenient time. The best option though might be to do away with DPF/EGR altogether by contacting a company or two up in Canada that specialize in this sort of thing.

 

[jyoutz]

Do you also have the same model 100 HP Kubota tractor, for comparison?

No, and the suggestion was that he look at using a 60 hp HST for his orchard work.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

No, and the suggestion was that he look at using a 60 hp HST for his orchard work.

60hp hst would only work for moving apples and doing hay rides. Would be enough for the mower, sprayer, pumps and everything else it's used for

 

[McMXi]

60hp hst would only work for moving apples and doing hay rides. Would be enough for the mower, sprayer, pumps and everything else it's used for

I don't know anything about your specific needs, and not sure if you meant to type "Wouldn't be enough", but I pull a 4,000lb 12ft rotary cutter around my very hilly property with an M6060 (63.5hp engine net/56 hp pto) without any trouble at all. I received shipping confirmation today for a reflash tuner that will result in close to 80hp. That's going to be sweet when cutting, discing or plowing.

Up here, the M7060/6060 is popular with farmers for doing a bunch of chores that don't require much bigger tractors, and by that I mean tractors in the 200hp + range.

 

[BAP]

60hp hst would only work for moving apples and doing hay rides. Would be enough for the mower, sprayer, pumps and everything else it's used for

You are going to have a lot of people who own 60hp tractors tell you that you don’t know what you need for tractor size because their 60hp tractor can do anything you want it to. Many on here are sure that everyone should have the same tractor that they have.

 

[McMXi]

You are going to have a lot of people who own 60hp tractors tell you that you don’t know what you need for tractor size because their 60hp tractor can do anything you want it to. Many on here are sure that everyone should have the same tractor that they have.

I think that goes both ways when it comes to tractor size, but I agree that there's a tendency for people to recommend the same thing they bought. I think the term for that is "confirmation bias".

I think many of us here would love to have an M5 like @Shadow_storm56.

 

[SDT]

I don't know anything about your specific needs, and not sure if you meant to type "Wouldn't be enough", but I pull a 4,000lb 12ft rotary cutter around my very hilly property with an M6060 (63.5hp engine net/56 hp pto) without any trouble at all. I received shipping confirmation today for a reflash tuner that will result in close to 80hp. That's going to be sweet when cutting, discing or plowing.

Up here, the M7060/6060 is popular with farmers for doing a bunch of chores that don't require much bigger tractors, and by that I mean tractors in the 200hp + range.

Wow!

That is one heavy 12' cutter!

My Woods BW15.50 15' cutter with 8 aircraft wheels/tires is only a bit heavier.

You are going to have a lot of people who own 60hp tractors tell you that you don’t know what you need for tractor size because their 60hp tractor can do anything you want it to. Many on here are sure that everyone should have the same tractor that they have.

Bingo.

 

[McMXi]

Wow!

That is one heavy 12' cutter!

My Woods BW15.50 15' cutter with 8 wheels/tires is only a bit heavier.

Here's the original quote from the local Kubota dealer. It states 4,194 lb as the approximate weight. The hitch weight is listed as 1,370 lb in the screenshot below.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

After going back to the start of this thread and reading this comment, I remembered that the times I've gone through a regen with the M6060 working, I've simply lowered the rpm to idle, changed gears or direction and then raised the rpm to where they need to be to complete the regen.

Unless you press the regen inhibit button, the ECU is going to go through the process of completing the regen even if the rpm varies. It'll take longer that way, but you can smooth out the tractor operation by driving the tractor as you would normally i.e. lower rpm for shifts and direction changes, but get the rpm back up so that that rpm light on the dash goes out.

Your other option is to press the regen inhibit button and do the regen at a more convenient time. The best option though might be to do away with DPF/EGR altogether by contacting a company or two up in Canada that specialize in this sort of thing.

If an user is using the tractor regularly or more than couple/few hours in a day, best to go ahead and just run the higher rpm/pto rev for the 15 to 25min. period. Burn off what's already hot and built up. By doing so, you prolonging the life regen system/filter.

If an operator notices a regen routine where the regen kicks on about every 15 to 25 hours, they are not doing that tractor/motor regen system any favors.

By implementing my own rev practices, it's not uncommon for mine to go 40 to 70hours before the tractor wants regen. Just food for thoughts.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

If an user is using the tractor regularly or more than couple/few hours in a day, best to go ahead and just run the higher rpm/pto rev for the 15 to 25min. period. Burn off what's already hot and built up. By doing so, you prolonging the life regen system/filter.

If an operator notices a regen routine where the regen kicks on about every 15 to 25 hours, they are not doing that tractor/motor regen system any favors.

By implementing my own rev practices, it's not uncommon for mine to go 40 to 70hours before the tractor wants regen. Just food for thoughts.

I never found it burns anything off unless it's doing a regen. Even at max load mowing the orchard in the summer it still slowly ticks up

 

[Siesta Sundance]

I never found it burns anything off unless it's doing a regen. Even at max load mowing the orchard in the summer it still slowly ticks up

You can initiate a regren, I always work through mine.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

You can initiate a regren, I always work through mine.

I can only if it's ready for a regen. Usually it's at like 50% when mowing... few days later when I'm done it's at 95 and then when I'm doing light work with wants to regen so I gotta stop and let it sit and do it's thing. If I could regen when ever then I could actually time it

 

[McMXi]

The company I work for recently hired a John Deere engineer for a top level position. He was in charge of a couple of hundred people and worked at JD for decades.

I was talking with him yesterday about DPF/EGR and he was intimately familiar with Tier 3 and Tier 4 systems. He told me that the entire Agricultural contribution to US emissions is only 2% of the gross output, and that number includes all tractors and farm equipment in use in the US.