I have a D1105-T and the turbo is in need of replacing. The center section is worn and there is vertical and horizontal movement on the impeller shaft. There isn't much, if any, back and forth movement. Thing is with this engine it's not 100% itself and I really don't want to spend to much on a turbo. What are the thoughts on the replacement turbos in the $200-$300 range that are found on amazon and ebay? I just need something to get my by until I find a good used engine. Engine runs about 10 hours a month.
D1105-T turbo replacement
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North Idaho Wolfman
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If you can afford the cheap turbo it should work for a while.
You don't have much to lose!
What's the tradeoff between running the existing turbo until it busts, v's putting a new cheap turbo on? It doesn't sound like your current turbo is broken, just worn.
if the oil pressure is low it very well could be the reason the turbocharger is failing
been through this many times, most recently on a 2.3L Ford (SVO). Ate a turbo. Figured the turbo was worn, so I had it rebuilt. Ate that one. Hmm. Called the rebuilder, he says it was perfect when it left (and it probably was, knowing him). He said check oil pressure. 15 psi at 2500. 10 psi at 1000. It had a oil light but it doesn't come on til 5 psi or lower. Engine ran fine.
on turbo selection, be careful. The compressor wheel and turbine wheel and turbine housing may very well be different, which might result in no or low boost, or high egt, or whatever. These little engines are really sensitive to that stuff. Maybe send yours out for a rebuild. I'd personally do that before I bought an unknown chincanese turbo. If that chicom turbo fails, it sends the impeller through the engine. Not sure I like that thought.
a tiny bit of play in the shaft is no issue on hydrodynamic aks "journal" bearings which is what yours is. IMO if it ain't leaking any oil into either of the housings, I ain't worried about it.
but I'd certainly put an oil pressure gauge on it, just so you know.
been through this many times, most recently on a 2.3L Ford (SVO). Ate a turbo. Figured the turbo was worn, so I had it rebuilt. Ate that one. Hmm. Called the rebuilder, he says it was perfect when it left (and it probably was, knowing him). He said check oil pressure. 15 psi at 2500. 10 psi at 1000. It had a oil light but it doesn't come on til 5 psi or lower. Engine ran fine.
on turbo selection, be careful. The compressor wheel and turbine wheel and turbine housing may very well be different, which might result in no or low boost, or high egt, or whatever. These little engines are really sensitive to that stuff. Maybe send yours out for a rebuild. I'd personally do that before I bought an unknown chincanese turbo. If that chicom turbo fails, it sends the impeller through the engine. Not sure I like that thought.
a tiny bit of play in the shaft is no issue on hydrodynamic aks "journal" bearings which is what yours is. IMO if it ain't leaking any oil into either of the housings, I ain't worried about it.
but I'd certainly put an oil pressure gauge on it, just so you know.
The turbo is worn. About 1/8" play in each direction so a 1/4" total movement and the impeller is hitting the housing. Thing is this engine has an egg shaped cylinder and blow bye with cylinder pumping but still has decent power. The engine needs to be rebuilt but defiantly could use a fresh turbo in the meantime. I don't want to spend $1400 on a new Kubota turbo when I can get a good used engine for $2000, when one becomes available. $300 turbo in the meantime doesn't seem to bad. There just isn't much info on them and last thing I'd want to happen is have an impeller come apart on one and destroy the engine beyond repair, just don't know the quality of them...
Oil pressure cold is 40-60 psi idle to full throttle. Oil pressure hot is 15-40 psi idle to full throttle.
So my turbo started spitting oil and I gave one of those $180 Chinese replacements a try. The chinese turbo doesnt fit. Intake housing is too big and the intake is larger than the factory one. Just a heads up.