D1005 ( in Beta Marine 28 ) is not idling properly for a while after start - then runs good

Ursa Minor Beta

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Equipment
Beta Marine 25 ( Kubota D1005 )
Aug 31, 2025
15
8
3
The deep ocean
Hello! It's nice to be here.

After exhausting all my personal resources and reaching a dead end with my friends' advice, I'd like to see if anyone here in the specialist forum can help me out.

My boat's engine is a Beta Marine 28. It's based on a Kubota D1005 three-cylinder engine. It is not used often, as the boat sails most of the time.
In the last 5 years, it has been used for maybe 100 hours. However, rot is always a problem at sea due to the salt air.
In general the engine was started once a week to run all the systems and regular oil and filter changes and other maintenance work were carried out.

For some time now, the engine has been starting less easily (previously there were never any problems, and even preheating was not necessary at temperatures above 15°C).
Above all, it initially runs at very low revs when idling and does not respond to the throttle until it gets up to speed.

The first assumptions were, of course, air in the system, clogged filter, valve clearance, injection nozzles, compression.

I have now done the following:
I checked the entire diesel system and, as a precaution, replaced the hoses that had become hard.
I also annealed the copper seals on the overflow pipe to make them soft again for proper sealing.
I replaced all filters.

Injection nozzles checked (initially only roughly for leaks and spray function—no precise assessment made yet—I am currently far away from workshops that can do this and do not have the necessary tools on site) no obvious problems found.
Injection nozzles soaked overnight in brake cleaner to remove any contamination.
Glow plugs checked – working well.
Tested diesel supply manually from canister via engine with hand pump and filter directly into injection pump to rule out faults in the system.
Valves adjusted.
Engine shut-off device checked. (Magnetic switch removed and only the mechanical lever used).

Still to do:
Check compression – I don't have the right equipment for this at the moment.
Replace the injection nozzles as a precaution. However, I can't get hold of any spare parts at the moment.

After doing all this, the problem is basically still the same. Only the start-up has improved slightly. I think there was still a small amount of air getting into the system somewhere through the old hoses or seals.

Now it's always the same thing:
First, the engine runs at low speed when idling and doesn't respond to the throttle (adjustment screw or throttle lever).
After a while, the speed increases and it responds to the throttle again.
I've attached a video-link where you can hear the problem.
I can't tell if the engine is only running properly at low RPM or on only two cylinders. Maybe someone with more experience can hear it?
The problem also occurs when the engine is warm.
When restarting, it initially runs at low RPM. Only then does it speed up a little faster until everything is OK.
As long as it's not running smoothly, it emits a slight gray/black smoke, which means there is too much diesel in the system. (In one cylinder?)

As I said, I still have to do a compression test, and only replacing the injectors would rule out a problem with them.
But somehow that feels strange to me...
While looking through the parts list, I noticed this “idle apparatus.” (See Appendix ) It's somehow connected to the engine speed regulator, but unfortunately I can't find an exact drawing for it. Maybe there's something wrong there?

If anyone has had time to read through this novel, I'd like to say: Thank you!
And if anyone has any ideas, I'd say: Bring them on!

Sooty regards
 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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It's not firing all the cylinders at startup.
Bad injector or bad injection pump.

The next big port you land in get a big bottle of cetane booster and diesel injector cleaner.
It's not very likely to fix it but it might help mitigate the issue till you can dry dock and fix it properly.
Keep an eye on the motor oil level as if it rises even the slightest it might be putting diesel fuel in the oil.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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The Booster part is 100% real and good, the cleaner part... well lets just say it's rolling dice at best.
But in your situation, it's the best bet for now.
Let us know when you hit a good stopping / maintenance point and can do some other tests to narrow down the issue.
 

Ursa Minor Beta

New member

Equipment
Beta Marine 25 ( Kubota D1005 )
Aug 31, 2025
15
8
3
The deep ocean
Ah. Ok.
Today I tried to use "diesel starter spray" and to my surprise that did make starting much easier.
SoI guess that would also point on the direction of faulty injectors? Or maybe the injection pump not producing correct pressure? However I guess the latter would also have an effect on non idle running?
 

Russell King

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Don’t use any type of starting fluid on these engines, you can easily make the engine become an anchor!
 
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Ursa Minor Beta

New member

Equipment
Beta Marine 25 ( Kubota D1005 )
Aug 31, 2025
15
8
3
The deep ocean
I see. Why is that? I guess the uncontrolled explosion is hard on the piston rings?
( I remember an old sailor who would start his engine with a dash of Bop insecticide...
 
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Russell King

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As I understand it, the use of starting fluid in the intake air stream is flooding all cylinders with explosive mixtures that will explode in the wrong piston position and bend rods or damage rings as they try to continue the correct direction of rotation due to the actual firing cylinder from the injection pump and engine timing. These are not “real heavy duty“ engines so are more easily damaged than the larger diesel engines in many ships.

If you have time and the desire you could look at the spray pattern of the injectors and probably find the bad injector. You could also just order one injector and washer and replace the existing injectors one at a time to see if that improves the performance of the engine. Don’t buy aftermarket injectors just get OEM ones. The aftermarket ones are supposedly not reliable products.
 
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Ursa Minor Beta

New member

Equipment
Beta Marine 25 ( Kubota D1005 )
Aug 31, 2025
15
8
3
The deep ocean
Hello.
So a quick update on the situation ...
After I was finally able to remove the old heat seal and fixed the broken return line, I could reassemble everything with the new injectors and test.
However this time it was worse then with the old injectors.
I did not even get to the part where the engine would idle roughly.
Since I cannot make sure that the new injectors are actually the right ones ( or maybe damaged ) I put the old ones in and now I am back to square one. At least it tries to fire again although this time round I havn't managed to get it running again.
Things I want to try:
- Compression test.
- pressure test of all injectors to see if there are issues with some of them ( maybe the newer ones have a higher resistance? )

- I do have a second injector pump here in my spare parts box. But I do not know if it is a good one. I is definately a used one.
I am reluctant though to take the injector pump out though as I am worried that some collateral damage could happen with all the springs and levers as the engine room is pretty tight and working on it properly not easy.
However, while I was looking at the workshop manual, I noticed this "governor" and "boost compensator" section I noticed this little "start spring" and I was wondering what the symptoms of a faulty or broken one would be.

Also: Maybe the "boost compensator" could have an issue?
Edit: My engine does not sport that contraption.

The engine had not been run for about 4 months before the problems started... So I am also thinking that maybe there could be an issue with something gotten stuck?

As always: Thanks for all hints and suggestions!
 
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Ursa Minor Beta

New member

Equipment
Beta Marine 25 ( Kubota D1005 )
Aug 31, 2025
15
8
3
The deep ocean
So. After taking the air intake manifold off, realized that there is smoke coming OUT of one of the intakes.
I guess I have a bigger problem then. Weighing my options. Could take the head off and see how big the issue is.
But then... that should not have to do with the engine not reacting to throttle changes :/
 
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PoTreeBoy

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So. After taking the air intake manifold off, realized that there is smoke coming OUT of one of the intakes.
I guess I have a bigger problem then. Weighing my options. Could take the head off and see how big the issue is.
I'd measure the compression before removing the head. Then you know your starting point.
 

Ursa Minor Beta

New member

Equipment
Beta Marine 25 ( Kubota D1005 )
Aug 31, 2025
15
8
3
The deep ocean
Ooookeee. So now I know where the main issue is located!
There is some issue with the Governor / Throttle control mechanics.
Despite the blowby and non-sealing valves, I can get the engine to respond to throttle by manually pulling on the Fork Lever 1 (6) on the diagram.
Screenshot 2025-10-15 at 18.15.24.png

See video:

However when the cover is back on and the governor spring connected to the outer throttle lever thereis no reaction.
Same situation when I try to manually pull on Fork Lever 2.
I can pull it towards the back of the engine together with the floating lever until it hits the max torque limiter but it does not change the engine speed.
So I assume that thereis something wrong / missing / deconnected ...
But what I wonder.

If someone has in depth knowlegde of this contraption, please share your wisdom.
At present I cannot wrap my head around how this is actually supposed to work ...
Thanks so much.
 

Russell King

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@North Idaho Wolfman or @whitetiger will be the best to answer your question on the linkage.

It is usually how the springs are attached or how the #6 fork lever one is attached. But I don’t have a clue how to fix it other than I have read about it somewhere here.
 

Ursa Minor Beta

New member

Equipment
Beta Marine 25 ( Kubota D1005 )
Aug 31, 2025
15
8
3
The deep ocean
Well the problem had started at some point after the engine was not used for four months. Not sure what could have caused the issue.
After seeing this drawing I wonder if maybe the spring in the 040 assembly broke / wore out?
But since I dont know what it does or how it actually works its hard to tell where to look.
I am guessing that if I take out shaft 090 and the injector pump I can probably remove the whole assembly for inspection. But maybe the cause is something much simpler ...
Screenshot 2025-10-15 at 22.19.49.png