Cracked block - fixable?

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Welp...

Good and bad.

So far the JB is holding... but it's hardly a good enough test. I only let it run for a short while so it'll take putting it to work for a couple days before I think the patch will hold for any amount of time. I took a picture of the patched crack while running but it's kinda pointless to post it. It's just the same picture, it's dry and not leaking at the crack area.

However...

While that crack has been dealt with (even if just for the moment) I'm not out of the woods yet. Found at least one more maybe-serious spot.

Here's a backed away picture to place the spot:

View attachment 168321

Here's a couple pictures of the same spot zoomed in on it:


View attachment 168322


Looks like this isn't held in flush and it should be?

I know I'm supposed to keep everything on this site but I don't think I can put a video here can I? I'll just call this bonus content.
I just uploaded it to Streamable.com: B7100 Leak
It just shows the motor running, zoomed in on the JB, dry as a bone... but then shows the new leak.

I just came in from messing with it so I haven't started studying up on what I'm looking at yet but this is the new challenge. Unless this is a *quit-now* type situation, this leak won't drain me quickly so tomorrow or Saturday I'll do some work with it to confirm the JB is gonna last more than a few hours. TBD on the rest.

You NEED to pull the head and properly fix it before you do permanent damage to the entire engine.

 

[#40Fan]

That is a frost/freeze plug pushed out.

Since your initial crack was just in the head, and not in the block, and you've found this plug pushed out, I would tap the plug back in and do a pressure test on the cooling system. Look for other external coolant leaks and maybe even drain the oil and leave the drain plug out while doing the pressure test to check for any internal coolant leaks. As NIW has said, the cylinder head would be the cheapest fix if that is all that is wrong.