Have been lurking for awhile, trying to sort out some things. Very impressed with the wisdom and quality of the information shared here. My thanks in advance for your help.
I'm looking to buy my first tractor. No real farm work (only five acres). But I've got a 1/4 mile-long, not entirely flat, gravel driveway that needs periodic attention - scraping, dressing, filling in thunderstorm-induced ruts, redistributing gravel as it washes downhill, etc. In the winter I need to either blade or blow the periodic snow we get.
I've also got a couple of drainage ditches under the driveway that tend to become obstructed on either side. Very laborious to try and clear with a shovel. And frankly not very effective.
I've got probably an acre and a half of scrub brush, saplings, and smallish trees I'd like to clear. Similarly, the entire circumference of the cleared part of the property is rough (overgrown with encroaching brush) and would greatly benefit from being pushed back 6-12 feet.
I burn wood as my primary heat and it would be very helpful to have something to efficiently move logs to where they can be bucked. I've got a dedicated log splitter so no need for help there.
I want to put another shed on the property. Alas, the place upon which I'd like to site it is on a fairly good grade, so a good bit of excavating would be needed.
No mowing (bought the wife a really nice Cub Cadet Zero Turn for that ;-).
All of which has led me to consider a tractor. I've contemplated several models, including the B2620, the B3200, and the smaller L-series units (really, too large - and expensive - for my needs it seems). Ultimately, I've closed in on the B3300SU. It seems like it might be a good candidate. Decent size and the lack of a mid PTO isn't an issue because I'm certain I'll never use a MMM. Thoughts?
I'm mildly bemused at the lack of a (stock) drawbar on the 3-pt hitch. It's only $51 on the Kubota builder, so it's not a big deal to add, I'm just curious why what seems to be such a basic part of a tractor wouldn't be included. Am I missing something regarding the B3300SU 3-pt hitch? I hope it's not proprietary...
More important, it seems, is the 1/4 inching valve rather than having position control. I'm guessing I'll get used to that (and, in any case, I thought I read somewhere that nearly all the B-series tractors have the 1/4 inch setup, and so you really need to move up to the L-series before you get position control as a standard feature). I'm inclined to shrug and move on. Any thoughts that I should potentially consider it a deal killer?
The three implements I can most envision using, in probable order of use, are a box blade, a bush hog, and back hoe. I'm torn on the back hoe. Getting the BH (with the subframe assembly, bucket, and thumb) really jumps the cost of the package. And, obviously, to use the box blade or bush hog (or any other 3-pt hitch attachment) first requires you to remove the BH. How hard is it to remove and attach the BH? How long does it take? The flip side is.... I really, really would like a BH. They're just so cool! (I know, not exactly a great reason...)
I'd like to avoid buying a snowblower if at all possible - we don't get that much snow here in Virginia. That said, I wouldn't want to depend solely upon the FEL to move the occasional 2-3 foot snow. Would a box blade be effective in that role?
If I did end up going with a rear-mount snowblower at some point - okay, really dumb question here - do you back the tractor into the snow? Or do you drive forward normally?
Last question. The "Rear Remote Valves" is a very expensive option. My hazy understanding of those valves is that they would be used to attach hydraulics to a rear-mounted implement. I'm assuming the 3-pt hitch is already attached to hydraulics. So unless I'm mistaken in that, what kind of attachment(s) would make use of the Rear Remote Valve(s)?
Thanks in advance for your advice and counsel...
Jeff
I'm looking to buy my first tractor. No real farm work (only five acres). But I've got a 1/4 mile-long, not entirely flat, gravel driveway that needs periodic attention - scraping, dressing, filling in thunderstorm-induced ruts, redistributing gravel as it washes downhill, etc. In the winter I need to either blade or blow the periodic snow we get.
I've also got a couple of drainage ditches under the driveway that tend to become obstructed on either side. Very laborious to try and clear with a shovel. And frankly not very effective.
I've got probably an acre and a half of scrub brush, saplings, and smallish trees I'd like to clear. Similarly, the entire circumference of the cleared part of the property is rough (overgrown with encroaching brush) and would greatly benefit from being pushed back 6-12 feet.
I burn wood as my primary heat and it would be very helpful to have something to efficiently move logs to where they can be bucked. I've got a dedicated log splitter so no need for help there.
I want to put another shed on the property. Alas, the place upon which I'd like to site it is on a fairly good grade, so a good bit of excavating would be needed.
No mowing (bought the wife a really nice Cub Cadet Zero Turn for that ;-).
All of which has led me to consider a tractor. I've contemplated several models, including the B2620, the B3200, and the smaller L-series units (really, too large - and expensive - for my needs it seems). Ultimately, I've closed in on the B3300SU. It seems like it might be a good candidate. Decent size and the lack of a mid PTO isn't an issue because I'm certain I'll never use a MMM. Thoughts?
I'm mildly bemused at the lack of a (stock) drawbar on the 3-pt hitch. It's only $51 on the Kubota builder, so it's not a big deal to add, I'm just curious why what seems to be such a basic part of a tractor wouldn't be included. Am I missing something regarding the B3300SU 3-pt hitch? I hope it's not proprietary...
More important, it seems, is the 1/4 inching valve rather than having position control. I'm guessing I'll get used to that (and, in any case, I thought I read somewhere that nearly all the B-series tractors have the 1/4 inch setup, and so you really need to move up to the L-series before you get position control as a standard feature). I'm inclined to shrug and move on. Any thoughts that I should potentially consider it a deal killer?
The three implements I can most envision using, in probable order of use, are a box blade, a bush hog, and back hoe. I'm torn on the back hoe. Getting the BH (with the subframe assembly, bucket, and thumb) really jumps the cost of the package. And, obviously, to use the box blade or bush hog (or any other 3-pt hitch attachment) first requires you to remove the BH. How hard is it to remove and attach the BH? How long does it take? The flip side is.... I really, really would like a BH. They're just so cool! (I know, not exactly a great reason...)
I'd like to avoid buying a snowblower if at all possible - we don't get that much snow here in Virginia. That said, I wouldn't want to depend solely upon the FEL to move the occasional 2-3 foot snow. Would a box blade be effective in that role?
If I did end up going with a rear-mount snowblower at some point - okay, really dumb question here - do you back the tractor into the snow? Or do you drive forward normally?
Last question. The "Rear Remote Valves" is a very expensive option. My hazy understanding of those valves is that they would be used to attach hydraulics to a rear-mounted implement. I'm assuming the 3-pt hitch is already attached to hydraulics. So unless I'm mistaken in that, what kind of attachment(s) would make use of the Rear Remote Valve(s)?
Thanks in advance for your advice and counsel...
Jeff
