Clean your coolant system

[Orange Tractors]

Just a reminder for those of us with the Thermo Syphon cooling system to clean it once in a while.

I was mowing today with my L175 and noticed a bit of steam coming from the radiator overflow whistle, not enough to ruin things, the whistle never sounded, but the engine did get a little warmer than I like.

Ambient temp was around 90°F, and the grass was thick and taller than normal, but not that tall and thick.

Thinking back it has been about three years since I last cleaned the coolant system, so I know what I am going to do before the next time I have to mow.

I would do it tomorrow, but I managed to throw my back out two days ago and I could barely stay on the tractor today .

Form all I have read, bad things happen when these little diesels overheat, so I try to avoid that happening...

Robert

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Yeah I've got a coolant issue with my B6100. I was at a friends house last week trying to bush hog with a finish mower. I had noticed the engine got hot and smoked a little and I shut it down to check the fluid level in the radiator tank and it was empty. So I refilled and finished the job and left the tractor sitting on my trailer for a week and the radiator tank was empty again just from sitting.

I needed to use the tractor again today and bought a can of stop leak just to get me threw the job. I'm not 100% sure but I may be getting radiator juice in the oil.

 

[MagKarl]

I tried a stop leak type of product in my Honda Civic when I didn't have time to swap the water pump. Big mistake, it clogged up all the radiator tubes and went from leaking coolant to overheating. Learned my lesson.

Eric, get a coolant pressure test pump. You need to find out where that coolant is going.

 

[Bulldog]

MagKarl, I completely agree with you on the stop leak. That stuff causes nothing but trouble.

 

[300zx]

I typically check the ph level of my coolant at each oil change. Coolant starts off basic at about 8-8.5 and then becomes more acidic with time and the acidic level is what causes problems. I usually flush and change it when it gets to 7, which is neutral. In my cars, it usually takes 3 years. I learned this from the Virginia DOT. Here are the strips I use:

http://www.cooltrak.com/

John in VA

 

[DJG]

I typically check the ph level of my coolant at each oil change. Coolant starts off basic at about 8-8.5 and then becomes more acidic with time and the acidic level is what causes problems. I usually flush and change it when it gets to 7, which is neutral. In my cars, it usually takes 3 years. I learned this from the Virginia DOT. Here are the strips I use:

http://www.cooltrak.com/

John in VA

Thanks for the lead on the strips. I'll get some today.
My issue was similar to Eric's. I was using a finish mower in really tall, heavy grass more suitable to a brush hog. The blades stopped turning and the belt kept going and smoking. I disengaged the deck and while driving home decided to check it out.
When I shut down the tractor, I heard a bubbling/gurgling sound; popped the hood and saw green coolant pouring out of the overflow tube below the engine.
Guess the temp has gotten too high but I didn't notice it. It wasn't spiked into the red zone when I restarted so I hope I got away without any damage.
My question is whether I need to top off the coolant because of the overflow.
Any suggestions for this not terribly experienced internal-combustion engine home maintenance guy?
David

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Yeah I knew the stop leak could cause alot of damage. I just stuck it in for the time being to get me threw the next job without leaking ainti freeze all over the ground and spot killing the customers lawn.

 

[Orange Tractors]

Thanks for the lead on the strips. I'll get some today.
My issue was similar to Eric's. I was using a finish mower in really tall, heavy grass more suitable to a brush hog. The blades stopped turning and the belt kept going and smoking. I disengaged the deck and while driving home decided to check it out.
When I shut down the tractor, I heard a bubbling/gurgling sound; popped the hood and saw green coolant pouring out of the overflow tube below the engine.
Guess the temp has gotten too high but I didn't notice it. It wasn't spiked into the red zone when I restarted so I hope I got away without any damage.
My question is whether I need to top off the coolant because of the overflow.
Any suggestions for this not terribly experienced internal-combustion engine home maintenance guy?
David

Yes, top off the coolant level. While it is normal for radiators to push out a bit of coolant when they get warm, it is better to refill the system at least until you figure out what the normal level is.

The way to figure out the normal coolant level is to fill the system, then operate the tractor until it is at normal operating temperature (not overheating), shut it down let cool completely and then check the water level.

Robert

 

[Txfire468]

ok. as far as stop leak goes, use the Aluma-seal powder/grainy version. its about $2-3 and its a tube about the size of a roll of quarters. it will plug the holes, but doesnt plug the lines and hoses. it just collects around the hole where the coolant is leaking and seals it off. instead of thickening like the fluids do and clogging everything

 

[kuboman]

ok. as far as stop leak goes, use the Aluma-seal powder/grainy version. its about $2-3 and its a tube about the size of a roll of quarters. it will plug the holes, but doesnt plug the lines and hoses. it just collects around the hole where the coolant is leaking and seals it off. instead of thickening like the fluids do and clogging everything

Only problem with that is the aluminum powder reacts with copper. You are fine if you have an al radiator but many machines have a water to oil cooler with copper tubing and with enough time will corrode your oil cooler and then you have antifreeze in the oil.

 

[Txfire468]

Yeah but mines all aluminum. No oil cooler or anything but i wish it did. It gets very hot, very quick!