Changing out 25 yr old hydraulic hoses

[GeoHorn]

I also use Kroil, but it isn't readily available to most people, and that is why I recommended the SeaFoam Deep Creep. I buy the Kroil from Amazon, and I like the liquid in the can vs. the spray. Both are about the same money, but there is more in the dropper can than in the spray can. With the dropper, I can put it exactly where I need it. I also have penetrants in small medicine dropper bottles for the more delicate work.
I just received a new penetrating oil from CRC that I was asked to evaluate. Still haven't had anything to try it on. I will have to look around the backyard for some rusty metal to see what is so badly rusted that it won't come apart. That should be a good test.

WD40, Kroil, etc. in gallon cans or bulk IS certainly less expensive. I buy in bulk-cans and then one of these self-fill aerosol spray cans: https://www.amazon.com/Gino-Development-Refillable-Multipurpose-Replacements/dp/B07LB8KMGN/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2ROCD94HS8AC9&keywords=pressurized+spray+can+tool+for+oil&qid=1640076547&sprefix=pressuized+spay+can+tool+for+oil,aps,112&sr=8-6

 

[woodsy]

Appreciate all the great tips, knowledge and experience here. Glad I asked first.
Got some penetrating oil going yesterday, will hit em again today.
Just going to tackle the one leaking for now. Its cold but I do have a roof to work under although unheated carport.
Another Issue is see is the floor by the gas pedal is touching the quick coupler connection on the lower end of things.
Might have to get a jack under the floor in order to disconnect it there. Its all in very tight quarters of course ! But i'll get it.

 

[fried1765]

I also use Kroil, but it isn't readily available to most people, and that is why I recommended the SeaFoam Deep Creep. I buy the Kroil from Amazon, and I like the liquid in the can vs. the spray. Both are about the same money, but there is more in the dropper can than in the spray can. With the dropper, I can put it exactly where I need it. I also have penetrants in small medicine dropper bottles for the more delicate work.
I just received a new penetrating oil from CRC that I was asked to evaluate. Still haven't had anything to try it on. I will have to look around the backyard for some rusty metal to see what is so badly rusted that it won't come apart. That should be a good test.

I use Kroil in the spray can only occasionally.
Several years ago I bought a gallon of Kroil (expensive), and I have shared it with one of my sons.
I just use that in an old oil can.

I had a top link that was seriously rusted together (left outside for years).
I tried the smoke wrench, and everything else I could think of, to free it up.
Finally stood it up in a corner and added several long squirts of Kroil to the inside threads.
Left it standing that way for 5 months.
Bingo!
Pipe wrench freed it up easily!

 

[woodsy]

Will be picking up a 7/8" flare nut wrench tomorrow
ordered from a local auto parts store. It is sure to get used again in the future.
Open end wrench after heat and penetrating oil is a no go.
Just another adventure in tractor ownership.
I did find a forestry equip shop locally that can make up
a #6 hose when I get it off so thats a big plus

 

[Gb540]

Hoses are not tractor specific. Get it made locally.

But hoses are pressure specific, so be sure whoever makes them is using the right stuff for the job. All hydraulic hoses should have their pressure ratings printed on them somewhere.

If you're lucky you'll find a non-weathered spot on the original hoses that still have the ratings on them, otherwise look up the specs for the machine.

It's not rocket science but it's critical to get right. You don't want to do the job twice, or have something really go wrong.

 

[woodsy]

That wasn't too bad a job, $56 for the 43" hose w new fittings and $13 for the
7/8 x 3/4 " flare nut wrench. Wrench on, tap with hammer and turned right off, hardly any loss of oil, mostly what was in the hose.
Local shop made up the hose in about 10 mins.
Back in action. Thanks for all the tips ! Happy.
Only thing salvageable was the male end of the quick coupler connection