Caroni FL 1400 tiller

[jrslick]

Picked up this tiller last weekend. It has barely been used. The paint was still on the tines. I am ordering a new slip clutch PTO as it just had a shear bolt and the shaft didn't look like it was right.

I did hook it up and lightly tilled a previously tilled garden patch. It did a really good job. It really sucked down in the dirt. Not sure if it is because it is a different model, better tines, or a combination of both.

It is 56 inches, I had been borrowing and using a 50 inch Landpride. My B7100 didn't have any problem picking it up or running it, but when it started to really dig deep, it started to work harder. Just have to watch the depth.

 

[jrslick]

I have had some people, at another site, express concern that the tiller is too big for the tractor. The manufacturer recommended tractor HP is 15-35 for this tiller. My tractor is 16, I know it is on the low end, but might I be damaging my tractor transmission to run this tiller? Is there anyway to test/check if it is?

If so, would removing one set of tines help or hurt this situation. It is really starting to bug me. I really can't afford to damage the tractor and I cant afford to buy a different tiller. To sell and buy another one just isn't going to work either. It was too hard to find a nice used one and I need to use this one over the next few weeks.

Thoughts?

 

[Paulemar]

In my opinion, I wouldn't worry about it. You will find the correct speed and/or depth in which to operate the tiller. Heavy soil, for instance, will require a slower forward speed or a shallower tilling depth. Breaking new ground will require even slower speeds and multiple passes. So, in essence you can control the stress level on your tractor by listening to it. It will bog down if you approach too heavy a load. Tractors are tough and you are within the horsepower limits recommended. Pay attention and adjust your tilling accordingly.
You may also want to get some weight on the front end. You'll be OK tilling without it, but traveling may find your front end is on the light side.

 

[jrslick]

Thanks. Growing up on a farm, I have had my fair share of time in the tractor seat. I will need to adjust some more things on the tiller, but I appreciate your thoughts. I do have weights on the front, that is very helpful. This tiller is actually a few pounds lighter than the Landpride I was borrowing, at least the front end doesn't seem as light.

Jay

 

[85Hokie]

Thanks. Growing up on a farm, I have had my fair share of time in the tractor seat. I will need to adjust some more things on the tiller, but I appreciate your thoughts. I do have weights on the front, that is very helpful. This tiller is actually a few pounds lighter than the Landpride I was borrowing, at least the front end doesn't seem as light.

Jay

I am with Paul, little bites, and slower rates.....
might want to drop down at 50% depth then run back across at 100% depth ...
take you twice as long but........ easier on your machine and BRAIN !

 

[jrslick]

Another question, the 3 point clevis type hitches have two different size holes in them. The upper link is the same way. Why would they have two different sized holes? I decided to go and buy some hitch pens that would fit the smaller sized holes and just let it go. It is working, but still make be wonder what the correct pins should look like.

Jay

 

[notnew2diy]

Why would they have two different sized holes?
Jay

Just a WAG....cat-1 vs. cat-2 connections?

 

[jrslick]

Figured it out, decided to go to the Agrisupply website and find the replacement parts.

Bracket that shows the different sized holes.


The pin that is suppose to go in there.


Don't know why I didn't think of that last night.