Cargo containers

bcbull378

Member

Equipment
GL3830,fel,brush hog,pallet forks,disc,gannon,auger,springtooth,plow,drag,ripper
Sep 6, 2011
579
27
18
Ventura Ca
I'm thinking of building a new equipment barn using cargo containers ( seas train) type I'm thinking of using 8 40' containers 2 high 2 in length 40' apart giving me a barn floor of 40x 80 and then built a roof with diamentional lumber. Anyone built anything before using cargo containers? The containers themselves will be used for storage and a shop.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member

Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Nov 16, 2012
2,460
32
48
Southern OH
Been thinking about this as well.

1. At least on bottoms where you can not reach to paint every couple years once built..... Sandblast orr?? then Rhino Line (or similar?) these areas to seal the metal from moisture and oxygen so they dont rust as easy? Or get Aluminum one$?

2. The only " very strong" structural points are the areas where square w/tie down holes are. There is a frame structure at this spot. Rest is just thick corrugated metal wall. Sure; that has structural advantage... but seems not as much as you think. It may well be it is the frame primarily that allows them to be stackable and not the walls.

3. Consider instead of open ends, partially close these with 2 2o foot containers stacked. Note- Last time I checked 20footers are just as if not more expensive than 40's though. They are in more demand.
 
Last edited:

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,178
2,842
113
SW Pa
Back when I worked for a living, a mine was constructing a new and very large refuse dump, like over 500 acres. Anyway the company building it put together something very much like what your talking about for a heavy equipment shop, wear house ,ect.
3 high 3 wide and 3 deep. I forget what the span was but it was big and open. All the wiring was in EMT and lights was with mercy lamps. The roof was all done in metal tresses with corrugated sheets for the covering.Stairs were placed on the inside and each container had a man door cut into the side of it. The open end was the only draw back I could see, they hung large sheets of a very heavy plastic for run throughs and I dont know what it cost but Im betting it was a bugger to heat esp on that ridge top in the winter
 

Tooljunkie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
27
48
59
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
Sounds like a great idea. The companys that sell these things also do modifications for all kinds of purposes.
There must be some knowledge base regarding the structural attributes as well as using them for construction.

There must be a forum out there.
If not, could start one. Call it seacantalks.com.

Hope if you go ahead you documet your process.
 

Lil Foot

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
May 19, 2011
7,285
2,240
113
Peoria, AZ
Some folks near my place in the mountains took two containers & built a wood truss roof between them, creating a "carport" that they park their Yanmar tractor under. Unfortunately, I have no pics of it, and not sure when I'll get back up there.
 

rdhamill

New member
Nov 28, 2015
14
0
1
houlton
Been thinking about this as well.

1. At least on bottoms where you can not reach to paint every couple years once built..... Sandblast orr?? then Rhino Line (or similar?) these areas to seal the metal from moisture and oxygen so they dont rust as easy? Or get Aluminum one$?

2. The only " very strong" structural points are the areas where square w/tie down holes are. There is a frame structure at this spot. Rest is just thick corrugated metal wall. Sure; that has structural advantage... but seems not as much as you think. It may well be it is the frame primarily that allows them to be stackable and not the walls.

3. Consider instead of open ends, partially close these with 2 2o foot containers stacked. Note- Last time I checked 20footers are just as if not more expensive than 40's though. They are in more demand.


Point # 2 above is key. To carry a roof I would think you'd want a beam running lengthwise and attached to these lifting points.
I paid $1000 for a 48' can from CN rail about 10 years ago, it has been perfect for storage of cars, boats etc.

good luck!
 

cerlawson

New member

Equipment
rotiller, box scraper,etc.
Feb 24, 2011
1,067
4
0
PORTAGE, WI
You may be able to do this and accomplish what you want. However, check local building codes and requirements for building permits so as to not get in trouble with assessments, etc.

I'd also check with a local structural engineer for a few hours of his time. It may well save a bunch of work and money in the long run.
 

ShaunRH

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3200
May 14, 2014
1,414
6
0
Atascadero, CA
I have a pair of 20's on my property for just this purpose. They are going to be the side walls. Going to acquire a 40' one for the 'back' wall (it will become my 'man cave' office) but the main area between is going to be my repair shop with a walk down pit and all my tools. The front will have large access doors, and a very heavy roofing system that will have my gantry crane running parallel to the sides.

This is project #1 after I get on the ranch permanently. We'll have the park house on it by then so a place to work on everything is critical.

Forgot to mention, I'm adding 12' deep lean-to parking off each of the outside walls of the side cargo containers. I'm keeping everything under cover and out of the weather.
 
Last edited:

Tooljunkie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
27
48
59
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
One of my pals was planning the same thing, 2 sea cans and a roof.
Not cheap to buy them anymore. Up here 20 footers are pricey,$2000 and up.