I managed to get bolts holding auger shaft on left and side. Bolts holding gearbox to frame. Shear bolts are removed. Chain is removed. Lock key on sprocket is removed. But not able to remove sprocket at all. The allen screws on side holes don’t seem to be there at all or they were replaced with something else that I can’t see what type of head they would be. Note that sprocket moves in on shaft but not outward to be able to remove sprocket from shaft. Are those 2 screws on side of sprocket the only thing preventing sprocket to come out of the shaft?
BX2750 auger and fan removal
- Thread starter Shawntdc
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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In order to possibly give you an accurate answer to anything, I would need the serial number as there is 7 versions of that model number.
Do you have an idea where would the serial number be on the snowblower attachment?
North Idaho Wolfman
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There is usually a label with the model and serial number somewhere on it, normally on the back side of the main body.
North Idaho Wolfman
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My sprocket doesnt go up past as shown on second picture and I have both set screws removed from side holes of sprocket.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I have a BX2750D snowblower. Certainly looks similar to yours.
Attached is schematic for a BX2750A blower, as well as a BX2750D like mine. Both look the same. Don't know your model #, but should be close.
I don't see any circlips that would otherwise keep the pulley from coming off after the set screws are out.
Do you have a gear puller or bearing puller? Should pop right off....
Took a second look - - I might take a file to the end of the shaft.....just a little....looks a little mushroomed at the end.....
This is the BX2750A....
This is the BX2750D, which I have - - look the same.....
Attached is schematic for a BX2750A blower, as well as a BX2750D like mine. Both look the same. Don't know your model #, but should be close.
I don't see any circlips that would otherwise keep the pulley from coming off after the set screws are out.
Do you have a gear puller or bearing puller? Should pop right off....
Took a second look - - I might take a file to the end of the shaft.....just a little....looks a little mushroomed at the end.....
This is the BX2750A....
This is the BX2750D, which I have - - look the same.....
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GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Can you easily spin the sprocket on the shaft round and round and round ?
Is the key in 'new' condition, not rounded or missing a corner ?
I suspect the shaft's keyway (slot) is kinda mushed and binding things up
I'd get the sprocket all the way in or down (away from end of shaft )
use a fine file or 120 sandpaper strip to 'dress' the shaft,good and clean and smooth
also file a bevel on the end of the shaft (it looks mushed to me...)
align the sprocket keyway with the shaft keyway(you shouldn't 'have to' but might help )
ideally use a proper 3 jaw puller, or 'pickle fork' to push sprocket away from the case
if it doesn't come off, then push sprocket all the way down, look for binding spots, file them down, try again.
I've had to use a pickle fork and several open end wrenches( as spacers ) to get stubborn pulleys off in the past.
Is the key in 'new' condition, not rounded or missing a corner ?
I suspect the shaft's keyway (slot) is kinda mushed and binding things up
I'd get the sprocket all the way in or down (away from end of shaft )
use a fine file or 120 sandpaper strip to 'dress' the shaft,good and clean and smooth
also file a bevel on the end of the shaft (it looks mushed to me...)
align the sprocket keyway with the shaft keyway(you shouldn't 'have to' but might help )
ideally use a proper 3 jaw puller, or 'pickle fork' to push sprocket away from the case
if it doesn't come off, then push sprocket all the way down, look for binding spots, file them down, try again.
I've had to use a pickle fork and several open end wrenches( as spacers ) to get stubborn pulleys off in the past.
I agree with Greensvillejay that the end of the shaft has mushroomed at the end. First, start by cleaning up any corrosion on the shaft in front of the sprocket with fine emery paper and light oil. Next, spray that area with some brake cleaner to clean off any grit making sure that it is clean and shiny. Then gently tap the sprocket further onto the shaft towards the area that you have just cleaned. You can spray some penetrating oil to lubricate that area. Now do the same on the rest of the exposed shaft, and remove the Allen key. Flush with brake cleaner, and then using a fine file, remove the mushrooming from the end of the shaft. You might have to file a little of the end of the shaft because it might have been swelled by the mushrooming that was caused by someone hammering on the shaft end. Once the diameter of the shaft is cleaned and smooth, the sprocket will slide off. If for any reason you have to ever hammer on the end of a shaft, only do it with a lead or leather hammer, never a steel hammer! Keys are made of hardened steel, but sometimes they can get out of square, so my quick fix is the nail a piece of emery paper to a board, put some oil on it, and rub each side of the key on the emery paper until the sides of the key are smoothed. When reinstalling your Allen screws use a mild set Locktite so they don't come loose. If there is sufficient depth, you can also put a second Allen screw on top of the first to lock it down tight.
I mention using emery paper, however, I still have a good supply of crocus cloth which I prefer. I have also used plumber's fine grit sandpaper for copper pipe. https://www.mcmaster.com/crocus-cloth/
I mention using emery paper, however, I still have a good supply of crocus cloth which I prefer. I have also used plumber's fine grit sandpaper for copper pipe. https://www.mcmaster.com/crocus-cloth/
I just took another look at the teeth on your sprocket, and without being there to physically examine them, it appears that they are worn at the outer edge and it is clear that someone has been hammering on both the shaft and the sprocket in the past. Once you get this apart and have a new chain in hand, I would check the chain in the sprocket for looseness and wear. If you should need a new sprocket, you might be able to purchase one at a bearing supply house for a better price than going through the Kubota dealer. They are also available from McMaster-Carr... https://www.mcmaster.com/crocus-cloth/sprockets-for-ansi-roller-chain-9/ From memory, I believe that it is a #40 roller chain. You can buy a 10' roll of chain for less than what one chain will cost from Kubota, and even though the original chain is a 0-ring sealed chain, the standard chain will serve you well as long as you keep it oiled. I use chain and bar oil on the chain of my snowblower, and would check it at the beginning of every season. I usually got 2 or 3 seasons out of the standard chain and I cut up the entire 10' into the proper lengths so should I break a chain during a snow storm I could change it quickly and be back to clearing snow. I have a small assortment of chain links. https://www.mcmaster.com/roller-chain-links/
No the key isnt in mint condition. It's pretty rough shape. Previous owner was pretty rough on his repairs if he did them himself or if it was done by a mechanic. Even the gearbox, don't think the oil was changed in a very long time. The inside was more like a grey paste. I managed to heat it up and got some out. Put new oil in to help liquify it all. Once I get the shaft out, I will definitely bring it inside. Get it properly drained etc. I just hope that the gears inside aren't damaged. One thing at a time lol
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
'grey' usually indicates a mixture of water and oil. Not the 'end of the world', just another thing to fix...
hopefully a good flushing out and cleaning,then fresh oil...fingers crossed.
hopefully a good flushing out and cleaning,then fresh oil...fingers crossed.
So I forgot to mention yesterday, yes the sprocket was spinning free around the shaft.
So today I managed to get the sprocket off. But now it seems that the bearing is attached to the shaft as well. See picture. Looks like there's also a set screw in there because I can't get the bearing to slide out.
Have you tried to remove the Allen screw? If it is tight, then it probably needs some heat from a torch to break the bond of the Locktite.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
a LOT of heat, oil and patience...
Use a NEW, tight fitting Allen key.
Hopefully you can 'crack' the Allen screw, cause if you 'round it off', they are NOT fun to remove..
Looks likes previous damage in the picture..
good news is you ARE making progress.......!!!
Use a NEW, tight fitting Allen key.
Hopefully you can 'crack' the Allen screw, cause if you 'round it off', they are NOT fun to remove..
Looks likes previous damage in the picture..
good news is you ARE making progress.......!!!
North Idaho Wolfman
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That's a locking collar, let me run up to the other shop and grab a bearing and I'll show it comes apart.
Ok made it up to the other shop and back.
you drive the collar, Black ring one direction or the other to unlock it from the shaft.
If there is only one hole than no set screw, if it has 2 holes one will be a set screw the other will not have anything, it's just a location for a punch.
Based on the scars in your picture, try driving it clockwise ( because it has dent driving it counter clockwise locking it).
Ok made it up to the other shop and back.
you drive the collar, Black ring one direction or the other to unlock it from the shaft.
If there is only one hole than no set screw, if it has 2 holes one will be a set screw the other will not have anything, it's just a location for a punch.
Based on the scars in your picture, try driving it clockwise ( because it has dent driving it counter clockwise locking it).
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I have 2holes, one of them sure looks like it has a setscrew in it. but on parts drawing it doesnt mention it. Would you know the size of the head for my allen key to use by any chance ?
thank you all for your help. it is very much appreciated.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Sorry the Allen size varies for model to model and size to size.
What I do is use brake parts cleaner to clean out the head of the Allen, then size the Allen wrench, then use a good spray lube and see if you can get the Allen to break loose.
If you can't get it to break loose, try heating it.
If that doesn't work cut the ring off or at least cut a slot in it and then remove it.