BX2380 Wiring for LED Work Lights?

[tractormike]

I am trying to wire a set of work lights on my BX2380. They are two Nilight LED lights rated at 36 watts each. I ran a wire from my relay to the wire at the back of the tractor that is always on and then ran a wire from the relay to my switch. I ran a second line from the switch to the lights. Finally I ran a ground wire into the ground line at the rear of the tractor from the relay. I turned the switch on and the lights came on. I turned the switch off and the lights went out. However something is very wrong because the hot wire from the Relay to the switch started smoking and melted before I could pull all the connections. Where did I go wrong? Can I just eliminate the relay altogether?

 

[whitetiger]

What number terminal on the relay did you connect each wire to?

 

[tractormike]

The wires on the Relay were all reconnected and the relay was sealed part of the wiring harness. I didn't change anything. The switch had 3 poles. I was the wiring between the switch and the Relay that melted.

 

[Cfrazer]

What number terminal on the relay did you connect each wire to?

If you're using standard 12v relay I believe the constant hot from back of tractor should go to your switch then from your switch to terminal 86 on relay, and ground terminal 85. Then u need a constant hot to terminal 87 on relay, then wire from terminal 30 of relay to your lights.

when you turn switch on, it will power your relay which then sends power from terminal 87 to terminal 30 which powers your lights.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm the 'control' switch has 3 poles. That meanes either it's a SPDT or it's SPST WITH a light built in. TWO different swiches and TWO ways to wire them up. It sounds like it's a 'premade kit' ? IF so, post a 'link' to the unit. Also post a picture of the tractor wired up. If you Googgel ' wiring car LED light', select images, you'll get 1,000s of hits of pictures showing various ways to install lights. Obviously it's very hard to tell how you wired it up,so a picture will help. Assuming the wires are all different colors would help us though figure it out.

 

[200mph]

Not going to guess at what went wrong without a schematic of what the OP did. Otherwise it is a guessing game.

The wiring is more complicated than it needs to be. These lights pull far less amps than the rating indicates and can be wired with just a good DC rated switch. No need for a relay.

Hope you did not damage the lights.

 

[dirtydeed]

Why not just order the kit from Nilight? I used it for my installation yesterday. It's simple and seems well built. I only needed to add some more wire since I went directly to the battery and installed the switch in the dash.


Here is the kit...at $10, it's well worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZPX32N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[RCW]

After what I’ve learned recently, I’m with 200mph for a couple LED’s rated at 72 watts total; just use the switched hot lead in the provided work light circuit and get a good DC switch.

The rated 70+ watts may only draw half that, which is well-within the 10amp limit of the circuit.

I’ve had great luck with mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tractormike]

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to eliminate the relay, use 14 guage wire, get a properly rated switch and wire directly to the battery, using an inline fuse. I'll report back the results. I do appreciate all the help.

 

[Shawnmc]

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to eliminate the relay, use 14 guage wire, get a properly rated switch and wire directly to the battery, using an inline fuse. I'll report back the results. I do appreciate all the help.

That's the ideal way, LED lights have effectively reduced the need for relays on every single light circuit. As others have said if you turned it off and it burnt up a wire you've ran something wrong to the relay and are causing as short. Likely it's youve got a single pole double throw instead of a single pole single throw, and your second power output has somehow grounded out.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK some rough math..
36 watts/12 volts=3 amps
2x 3 amps = 6 amps

so... the LEDS should draw about 6 amps, not a big deal for a GOOD switch BUT ther's a lot of cheap misrated switches out there.
I'd want one rated for at least 20 Amps DC. Be SURE it says DC not AC !!! There's a huge difference in materials and construction between the two.

Using relays allows low current throught the switch to energize the relay,so te switch should last very long time. If the relay is rated for say 30 amps, it'll last 'forever' as well.

Also , say later you decide to add more LEDs, maybe side shooters ? With the relay setup , it's easy to add on. With a switch yoh may have to replace AND rewire.

 

[200mph]

OK some rough math..
36 watts/12 volts=3 amps
2x 3 amps = 6 amps

so... the LEDS should draw about 6 amps, not a big deal for a GOOD switch BUT ther's a lot of cheap misrated switches out there.
I'd want one rated for at least 20 Amps DC. Be SURE it says DC not AC !!! There's a huge difference in materials and construction between the two.

Using relays allows low current throught the switch to energize the relay,so te switch should last very long time. If the relay is rated for say 30 amps, it'll last 'forever' as well.

Also , say later you decide to add more LEDs, maybe side shooters ? With the relay setup , it's easy to add on. With a switch yoh may have to replace AND rewire.

Please note that a number of members including myself have actually measured the current draw of these lights and they are far less than the advertised rating. In some case by 50%. There is absolutely no need to make the wiring more complicated, even if an additional set of similar lights are added to the same circuit.

Bottom line: Wattage and Lumen claims are highly exaggerated with LED lights.

Do agree a DC rated switch is highly recommended.

 

[MI2601]

Here is a nice option someone posted for a B2601, Can't see why it would not work for you.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...=MICTUNING+MIC-LSB1+Laser+Light+Rocker+Switch