So I got it started, it even smoothed out a little bit about 5 minutes into letting the engine run. When it sounded close to normal, I tried to throttle up a little, but no change at all. I could see the throttle lever engaging, but no change to the RPM. At nearly 10 minutes on my timer, I tried to increase the throttle again, but it started to rattle harder so I shut it off.
BX2380 engine / fuel issue?
- Thread starter Kubota in PA
- Start date
There are TWO filters, one between tank and lift pump, 2nd between lift pump and Inj pump.
Assuming BX2380 is same as my BX23S.
Assuming BX2380 is same as my BX23S.
I've swapped both filters and have installed them same direction as the previous ones.
Dealer called me tonight and is sending a tech tomorrow. But I appreciate any other suggestions and will keep you posted.
Dealer called me tonight and is sending a tech tomorrow. But I appreciate any other suggestions and will keep you posted.
Glad he's coming out cause I'm at a loss to understand what's going on. Hopefully his 'bag of tricks' and 'magic wand' will get her up and running, right !!!!
hmm, any chance the power connector for the lift pump is disconnected ? Last filter change mine was ! Have no idea how long but engine ran fine.......
hmm, any chance the power connector for the lift pump is disconnected ? Last filter change mine was ! Have no idea how long but engine ran fine.......
I have to ask this question, only because it just happened to me.
Did you buy those filters from Kubota? Or and auto parts store!
I had a tech come up last fall. I had him service my tractor (bx-2680) and he used auto parts!!! Two auto parts fuel filter and an auto oil filter for the hydralics.
Diesel is considerably denser than gasoline and will not flow through an auto filter correctly. In fact, it caused my fuel pump to burn up because it had to work so hard to push the fluid. When you get it running, reach under and see if your fuel pump (between the filters) is hot to touch.
I had a similar issue last year and it turned out a small crack in the fuel line was letting in air. Replaced the line with Kubota replacement parts and it’s been running smooth ever since. Make sure to check all connections and clamps too—mine looked tight but one was just loose enough to mess things up.
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Here is my discovery.
I pulled the filters off along with pump. I replaced the filters and the pump. Ran good for awhile then repeated the problem.
I pulled the filters off, assuming they had clogged. But they looked fine. I ran the fuel pump from my battery charger with the suction hose in a jar of diesel fuel treatment. It pumped perfectly and did not eject anything unusal.
Even I removed the clamp I had put on the line leading to the fuel tank but it only dribbled. I knew there was some fuel in the tank.
I poured more fuel in the tank but still only the same dribble???
I started up the air compressor, used a clean rag to block the inlet and blasted air into the tank. The dribble increased but still a dribble???
I crawled under the tractor and put the air nozzle into the line going back to the tank and gave it a shot of air. I heard a POP and i had diesel coming out all over me!!
With that, I used the vacuum pump and extracted all the fuel I could out of the tank. I even had a thick wire wrapped around the hose so I could direct the suction to the lowest point.
I put a half bottle of fuel treatment into the tank and let it drain through into a catch basin. I figured it would melt any "gum" in the tank. But I never saw what was actually clogging the line?
I was good most of the summer but it has recently started back. I am not a heavy user. Though 5 years old, it still has less than 100 hours. So it does sit idle for months at a time.
Not wanting to crawl under the tractor in 90 degree heat, I dumped a full bottle of diesel treatment into the tank (good for 35 gal) and am hoping it will melt the sludge that accumulated.
I only have one place to buy my diesel. It's automotive diesel.
I pulled the filters off along with pump. I replaced the filters and the pump. Ran good for awhile then repeated the problem.
I pulled the filters off, assuming they had clogged. But they looked fine. I ran the fuel pump from my battery charger with the suction hose in a jar of diesel fuel treatment. It pumped perfectly and did not eject anything unusal.
Even I removed the clamp I had put on the line leading to the fuel tank but it only dribbled. I knew there was some fuel in the tank.
I poured more fuel in the tank but still only the same dribble???
I started up the air compressor, used a clean rag to block the inlet and blasted air into the tank. The dribble increased but still a dribble???
I crawled under the tractor and put the air nozzle into the line going back to the tank and gave it a shot of air. I heard a POP and i had diesel coming out all over me!!
With that, I used the vacuum pump and extracted all the fuel I could out of the tank. I even had a thick wire wrapped around the hose so I could direct the suction to the lowest point.
I put a half bottle of fuel treatment into the tank and let it drain through into a catch basin. I figured it would melt any "gum" in the tank. But I never saw what was actually clogging the line?
I was good most of the summer but it has recently started back. I am not a heavy user. Though 5 years old, it still has less than 100 hours. So it does sit idle for months at a time.
Not wanting to crawl under the tractor in 90 degree heat, I dumped a full bottle of diesel treatment into the tank (good for 35 gal) and am hoping it will melt the sludge that accumulated.
I only have one place to buy my diesel. It's automotive diesel.
@Springer : I'm not a snot-blob expert...but here goes: Do you fill the fuel tank after use, before the tractor sits?
Air expands/contacts with temperature changes and will draw in moist air that condenses leaving water behind when the air expands. The diesel/water separation layer is where algae grows, meaning the growth problem isn't immediately obvious. Keeping the tank full of fuel means less air-condensation-water-biofilm, and with addition of an algaecide a clean tank should usually remain in good shape (from what I read here on OTT).
I read BX are pretty finniky, and apparent moisture condensation in my own tank reflected that this past winter. After more reading here I now keep the BX topped off (not every day, just when it's going to sit a week or more).
Air expands/contacts with temperature changes and will draw in moist air that condenses leaving water behind when the air expands. The diesel/water separation layer is where algae grows, meaning the growth problem isn't immediately obvious. Keeping the tank full of fuel means less air-condensation-water-biofilm, and with addition of an algaecide a clean tank should usually remain in good shape (from what I read here on OTT).
I read BX are pretty finniky, and apparent moisture condensation in my own tank reflected that this past winter. After more reading here I now keep the BX topped off (not every day, just when it's going to sit a week or more).
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
What is “diesel treatment “?
Some kill biological growth and others do NOT. Some can be strong concentrations in the fuel, others can NOT be used in high concentrations.
Some kill biological growth and others do NOT. Some can be strong concentrations in the fuel, others can NOT be used in high concentrations.
Hey Spring, I’m new to the forum so excuse any errors while trying to respond to this message. So I’m having the same issue. Replaced the lifter pump 2times and both up/down stream filters 2 times. Also have a coffee filter strainer when I fill up so there is no debri in there… unless it was in there before I got it. Mine will run fine for 5 hours, then break down, then 1 hour… no consistency. I have read about the fuel register corroding and rusting. Which my gage is acting funny below 1/2tank. Blowing out from under, into the tank is a good idea and leads me to what I think is wrong with yours… and mine. Uhg. I think there is some metal scale or debri, not water or fuel based, that is not dissolvable by gunk remover. I run additive year round because I dont operate it much. this issue is pissing my off so much, I can relate to your tireless trouble shooting and silly questions asked. This winter I’m going to pull it in the shop, order the part below, and cut a 4” hole under the seat. Then truly access the fuel pickup area and see what shrapnel is making me pull my hair out. You think this could be our issue, and solution?
fueltankparts.com
Aluminum 6"OD x 4"ID Bolt In Tank Clean Out Access Plate
This cleanout is perfect for many applications where access to a tank is needed for cleanout or inspection. These are best used on flat firm surfaces and will create a tight seal without any type of sealants as long as there is not any distortion of the tank surface, upper plate or loose...
fueltankparts.com
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Why not just get some sort of camera on a stick? Cheap, easy, fast. If there's something in the tank suck it out with a pump system ($60-$130, depending, and it can be used for other stuff) or grabber.
I used the aluminum plate and cleaned mine out, i had same issue that it would idle but not raise RPM. I blew though lines and everything was good after. I cut access panel and cleaned out tank, I had some rust from sender, it doesn't take much to clog outlet port.
G
Good idea! I do have a borescope and used it. It’s a really hard bend to see to the bottom when intake is, I couldn’t get it to articulate, but I sure wish I could have. Uhg. I have a flexible cable with grabber at the end, but I could not spot anything obvious. After 2 hours fighting it, I could have just popped a hole in it and been done for 50$!
Good to know thanks! So all the problems solved? I had it die once so decided to bleed at the engine and back track each connection to the lifter pump, no flow. Then put a 1/4” hose to the tank outlet and just blew on it, then it flowed fine. What is on the inside of the tank? Have a pic of the outlet going out of the tank? A screen or anything on it? Cheers
Its a 90 Degree fitting I believe no screen just a hole almost flush with bottom of tank. I am glad I cut the access panel, it seals fine and any future issues will be quick and easy, Should have come from the factory with one.
Yes I drained the tank and lifted up the right side with the outrigger so I could get all the fuel and try to get all the sediments. If one could get a vacuum in there to vac the whole bottom, you just might get everything… but might not… might as well just “cut” to the chase and make an access hole. How has this rusting register not become a recall? Bull crap, used shit metal and not stainless, I shouldn’t have to keep a tractor filled to the brim all the time to keep this from happening.
My BX23S had 'fuel problem' ,6 years ago. ran fine, then rough, then yeesh hope I make it hope.....
'Something' was plugging the spigot. Took a leisurely day to remove tank, finally found the culprit. A small, black, sliver of plastic was plugging the spigot ! Now there it NO way I'd been able to see that( black on black is very hard on my eyes) and it was DOWN into the spigot. Compressed air blew it out and into the tank, several flushing with water and it finally came out...now sitting by my computer monitor. After reassembling 'Humpty Dumpty', I added a 'cold coffee mason jar filter' for $20. ZERO fuel issues since ( +-1000 hrs ). BTW get a helper to remove/install the seat and the floor pan. Both are miserably difficult if you're a senior !
'Something' was plugging the spigot. Took a leisurely day to remove tank, finally found the culprit. A small, black, sliver of plastic was plugging the spigot ! Now there it NO way I'd been able to see that( black on black is very hard on my eyes) and it was DOWN into the spigot. Compressed air blew it out and into the tank, several flushing with water and it finally came out...now sitting by my computer monitor. After reassembling 'Humpty Dumpty', I added a 'cold coffee mason jar filter' for $20. ZERO fuel issues since ( +-1000 hrs ). BTW get a helper to remove/install the seat and the floor pan. Both are miserably difficult if you're a senior !
That's a perfect excuse to get an articulating borescope. I don't have one (because I keep my fuel tank full and jumped on that stainless filler screen when I found the thread here on OTT that mentioned it and why I needed it, and so far for my uses the normal borescope has worked fine, but if your labor isn't free then maybe it'll save you time & money. Maybe.