I recently got a used BX2230. Last week it had no power to anything with key switch on (in any position). I've removed / cleaned the battery ground cable and terminals, as well as the ground to the chassis. I've verified I can get 12V to the starter via the main battery cable with key off. As soon as I turn the key to on / ACC, the voltage at the starter drops to ~ 2V (same for all downstream connections). If I remove the 30amp slow blow fuse, I still get 12V at the starter and 12V to the 30amp fuse termial I just removed. Once I put the fuse back and complete the circuit, back to 2 V with key on. Key off I get 12V everywhere. I've replaced the key switch and the same issue remains. What other issues could cause this? Bad red battery cable to starter? Thanks for any suggestions.
BX2230 - low voltage when key switch on (no power / start)
- Thread starter bowmaar
- Start date
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Load test the battery. If it's dropping to 2 volts when the key is turned on. You either have a bad battery, or bad connection.
Test battery with an analog load tester. The digital ones can say your battery tests fine, but the battery can still have an issue.
Check and clean where your ground cable for the battery connects to the frame. If it's loose it can give the same symptoms.
If battery and ground check out, then it's probably in the cables themselves.
Test battery with an analog load tester. The digital ones can say your battery tests fine, but the battery can still have an issue.
Check and clean where your ground cable for the battery connects to the frame. If it's loose it can give the same symptoms.
If battery and ground check out, then it's probably in the cables themselves.
When you are measuring battery voltage with the fuse in and key On, are you measuring the actual battery post to battery post voltage.
If that is how you are doing the measurement then your battery is clearly faulty as it should be able to put out hundreds of amps briefly before dropping to 2 volts
Do any of your battery cables have repair ends? The type that clamp unto the cable.
Dave
Last edited:
Bingo.
New is one thing. and properly charged is quite another.
The first thing to do in this case is to VERIFY that the battery is both properly charged and good.
Only a proper load test can do so. Modern digital (conductance) testers are notorious for false "goods."
SDT
Thanks Dave. Measuring voltage from batt terminal (neg) to batt terminal (pos), I get 12.7 V with key off or key switch on. But downstream at the starter I only get 2 V with key switch on. Both batt cables have the clamps on the ends for the wire. I'll get the battery load tested today and also try some new cables.
Update - I pulled the positive battery cable and took the clamp off the end at the battery post (previously I only pulled the cable off, cleaned the post, and reinstalled). This time I removed the clamp, cleaned it with a dremel tool, reinstalled and now everything is working again. I never suspected the positive cable, I was chasing ground cables mostly. At least there was no cost to fix! Thanks for everyone's input.
Now that the diagnosis is complete, buy yourself a present of new battery cables as in a number of months you will again be having issues.
Thanks for providing the final chapter.
Dave
Daren Todd
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Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
It's the clamp on terminals. I had a tech at work who was famous for replacing battery terminal ends with the clamp on terminals. After chasing the third unit he did that to I made sure we had crimp on terminal ends and a crimper for the shop.
Would have been a 5 minute diagnosis and another 5 min fix if you had a volt meter and knew how to do a drop test.
Years ago I had to teach our then JD service rep how to do it. Odd that a peon technician had to teach the regional service rep something; but he was like "huh I didn't know you could do that"....and to this day, he STILL is adamate about other techs using the drop test do perform diagnosis. Saves a ton of time and actually tests the loaded circuit much better than a continuity test.
Years ago I had to teach our then JD service rep how to do it. Odd that a peon technician had to teach the regional service rep something; but he was like "huh I didn't know you could do that"....and to this day, he STILL is adamate about other techs using the drop test do perform diagnosis. Saves a ton of time and actually tests the loaded circuit much better than a continuity test.
Bowmaar
The attached starter system diagnosis procedure incorporates the voltage drop test Lugbolt is suggesting would have been quickly able to identify your problem.
Take some time to study it and ask questions ass these techniques apply to other electrical problems as well.
I have also attached a charging system diagnosis procedure.
Dave
The attached starter system diagnosis procedure incorporates the voltage drop test Lugbolt is suggesting would have been quickly able to identify your problem.
Take some time to study it and ask questions ass these techniques apply to other electrical problems as well.
I have also attached a charging system diagnosis procedure.
Dave
+1 on doing a voltage drop test.
A simple search will point to a number of good videos to gain understanding on how to perform.