BX2200 FEL Question

[GWD]

OK, I downloaded the manual for the Woods BH6000. It clearly states that the two hydraulic outlets must be connected to each other when the BH is removed. Woods states that damage will occur if this loop is not connected.

There should be a hose hanging off the back of your tractor that will connect to the bare outlet. The connected hose will make a loop in the system

If you want me to email the manual to you just send me a PM with your email address. The .PDF file is about 3 MB.

 

[GWD]

Another thought about testing the strength of the FEL is to put the bucket in full dump and then push the joystick forward in the "down" direction. Don't push it so far forward that it goes into float mode. Not sure that you know that there are two down setting - power down and float.

That should lift the front.

Brake off as an earlier post mentioned and no other hydraulic functions engaged.

 

[GWD]

Another, another thought. Jeez, I'm becoming a pest.

580 hours is close enough to the 600 hour service that it can be done anytime. When the hydraulic fluid level was checked, what was the condition of the oil? Brown, amber, clear?

The engine oil is likely black. The engine needs serviced every 100 hrs.

A new hydraulic filter and cleaning the HST screen may put a little more zip into the hydraulics. Use quality oil. Kubota SUDT2 is expensive but not much (2.7 gal.) is needed compared to larger tractors. It will be quite a while (300 hrs) before the fluid needs changed again.

The service is not really that much of a hassle if you have the desire and the slightest mechanical ability.

You'll also want a new air filter (check to see if the air filter mount to the engine is broken), fuel filters (2) - they are a pain because the engine cowl should be removed and the MMM blocks getting to the second one, change the front axle oil after the leak is fixed, and probably the radiator coolant.

Remember that the BH is full of old oil too and it will mix with the new stuff when it is reattached. Not a big problem but just be aware that it will happen.

It is best to try to get the tractor off of the ground to do the service. It is a little low slung to get under. Watch out for the safety police if you try this:

 

[Underdawg]

No need to give me manuals, I have have them. I don't have a parts manual for the tractor if you have that one, I would like it. lol

I have closed the loop in cables while unloading the backhoe. The transmission fluid was clear. In fact it took me a min to even see it on the dip stick. I plan on doing the 600 mile service this year before winter kicks in. I will use all Kubota oil , except in the front axles. I will use 80/90.. Little thicker.

Your not a pest, I enjoy the conversation and the help. In the manual it tells you what to change and do, very nice so we will see. I am a very novice mechanic but love to try the basic items. I will get the backhoe hooked up and see what happens.

The bucket will not lift the tractor with nothing on the back of tractor. I will see what happens when I put something on the back.

 

[GWD]

You can get the "parts manual" from Messick's online. They will send you the page you request by email (like "steering" and so forth).

News: A new thread over on TBN has some information on the BX front axle.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290967&p=3461348#post3461348

 

[85Hokie]

It clearly states that the two hydraulic outlets must be connected to each other when the BH is removed. Woods states that damage will occur if this loop is not connected.

There should be a hose hanging off the back of your tractor that will connect to the bare outlet. The connected hose will make a loop in the system

this was my first thought, joining back the hydraulic loop......

 

[Underdawg]

OK, just incase your following along. ha ha. I had the hose connected after I took the BH off, dealer told me that several times.

Update... So today I put the BH back on and the front end comes up without a hitch with the BH on. Obviously the weight on the back makes the difference.

I put the front up by the FEL and I am able to move the the axle extremely easy. I mean I can put a can of pop on the axle and it drops. Dealer stated that it should not be that easy. So Thursday I will tighten the pivot axle bolt and see if this fixes the leak. I think I figured this out, and I appreciate you all's help. i will tighten bolt and respond back.

 

[Underdawg]

Update... The manual states the Axle Nut should be at 15Ftlbs. Once I took the cotter pin out, it was probably around 1 ft lb. So I tightned it up cleaned all the oil up and drove it around. Looks like the oil is coming from the seal on the axle, not the head of the bolt. Looks like all the seals need to be replaced. I may make this a winter project. Have too much to do right not to take the front axle off.

 

[davesl708]

Underdawg,

I recently purchase a used bx2200. (love it) a few hours after using it the FEL would stop working or slow considerably. The problem persisted.
My solution was to change the hydraulic fluid and filter. The unit had 1170 hrs on it and after checking the screen and filter it was obvious the hydraulic fluid had never been change. I ended up tearing down the control valve to clean it out and changed the fluid twice. Problem solved. Operates beyond expectations.

Hope this might help.

Dave

 

[Underdawg]

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by the screen? The screen behind the radiator? And your talking about the fluid you put in the back of the tractor, transmission/hydro fluid?

 

[GWD]

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by the screen? The screen behind the radiator? And your talking about the fluid you put in the back of the tractor, transmission/hydro fluid?

I referred to the screen in my post on doing the service. It is a tubular screen that is on the rear-most lower position on the transmission. It is held in by a rather large bolt that is sealed with an O-ring. (Largest bolt on the lower driver's side of the transmission.)

It must be taken out and cleaned or the hydraulic performance is compromised. Clean it in diesel or your favorite solvent. There is often large metal shavings on it from assembly debris.

Do it when you change the hydraulic oil since you'll lose it all when that bolt is taken out. Maybe if a rag is stuck in the hole it might hold back some fluid.

That is why I mentioned doing the 600 hour service now.

 

[Underdawg]

I see GWD.. I will have to get some UDT oil from the dealer. I think I need like 3.8 gallons. It's very hard to see on the dip stick so I want to make sure I have enough. lol

Orderd the pivot bolt, and will work onthe the other items as I go. I know the BH is losing some pressure, as it sits it starts to fall. Very small amounts. I haven't seen teh loader drop at all while off. Greased all teh zerks, not, just need to do the 600 hour service. Need some items though.

 

[GWD]

Don't be concerned about the BH or FEL leaking down a bit - like overnight. That is very, very typical.

You might think about using SUDT2. Some owners have had very good results with it as far as smoother operation, quieter, better hydraulic performance. I haven't used it myself yet - next change.

The hydraulic filter and the screen are about the only other things that can be dealt with by the owner to improve performance. Good luck and hope it works.

It remains a concern that the FEL won't pick up the front end without the weight of the BH on. As others have noted, the tractor should be able to do it.

Let us know what you find with the hydraulic oil change. Apparently, the dealer didn't do it when you bought it and the previous owner may not have ever done the change. Hard to know unless you call the dealer and ask if they did the change. Even then, it is better to be sure.

The hydraulic oil doesn't have combustion products in it so can be seemingly clear and still need changing. If it has been overheated there may be a slight amber tone to the oil.

I think that I noticed from your post that the FEL has been off. Sometimes reattaching the fittings can be just a bit off and reduce hydraulic performance. Try disconnecting and then connecting all three fittings again. That may do something...or not.

 

[Jefrey]

Well if you put it in gear low or high it will not raise, the top side end. If you wait out the 2pt it will not, raise it. Or and this one fooled, me some time if the brake is set it will not raise the top side end.

 

[Underdawg]

Getting ready to do my 600 hour service, perhaps this weekend. I purchased a Post Hole Auger and going to create a bunch of holes for horse fence.

GWD, I have the UDT2 fluid, I'm going to try the TSC stuff, that's reccommended on here since it's about 25 mins closer than my Dealer. However, I need filters and everything so might just buy all at dealer. ha ha.

Hopefully when I drain hydro/transmission fluid it will come back to life. Also have the axle pivot bushings and seals to fix that.

 

[GWD]

I would not recommend using the Tractor Supply hydraulic oil in your BX2200. How do I know? Simple, I used it and was very disappointed with the performance.

After only 10 hours it was drained and Kubota UDT fluid was used. This was before SUDT2 was available. "The cheapest person ends up paying the most." applies here.

And SUDT2 is slightly different than UDT2. Not really sure it will make that much difference between the two. Maybe some other members have tried both.

The improvement you are looking for will most likely be had with the changing of the hydraulic filter and cleaning the HST screen. Let us know what the screen looked like when it was taken out.

It is difficult when the history of the tractor and the care it got are unknowns.

 

[Underdawg]

Thanks GWD.. I was looking to save some money. $40 vs. $120 for the UDT2. Considering I need the filters, and Engine oil as well, was trying to save alittle. I will shop around. From what I understand the tractor was purchased new in 02 from the dealer I purschased it from, and the first 2 years, the dealer did the service. After that , the person that traded it in did the maintenance. So not sure what he used.

If I remember I will take a picture of the screen.. Hopfully I can get to it without taking the BH brackets off.

 

[GWD]

I believe Kubota has the UDT, UDT2, and the SUDT2. If you decide to go with quality oil then the SUDT2 is what you want.

Since you have a backhoe this is even more important. A backhoe really taxes the hydraulic pump and the temperature of the oil gets to the point where you don't want to touch the cylinders. At that point the oil thins out, lubrication is lost, and the pump can have cavitation.

You'll know when you reach that point because the BH will become jerky and shudder.

In my case I used TSC Premium hydraulic oil in the L48 backhoe to save money (like I tried with the BX2200). The L48 takes 15 gallons so price is an issue for that quantity.

Overheating and the resulting problems caused that oil to be dumped at 30 hours. Then Amsoil synthetic 10-30 was used and the problems went away. Of course, that was $600 later.

As trite as it sound, with hydraulic oil you get what you pay for.

 

[Underdawg]

OK GWD.. You have convinced me to stay with the Kubota UDT products. I believe the dealer has the Super UDT2, which from what I understand is a synthetic. I will buy what he through in when I bought the tractor, I think that's what it was.

By used the BH, does it require me pulling more fluid in the tractor? Since it's using my fluid to run the BH?

 

[GWD]

OK GWD.. You have convinced me to stay with the Kubota UDT products. I believe the dealer has the Super UDT2, which from what I understand is a synthetic. I will buy what he through in when I bought the tractor, I think that's what it was.

By used the BH, does it require me pulling more fluid in the tractor? Since it's using my fluid to run the BH?

No additonal fluid needed. When the BH was taken off it was full of the fluid being used and it is still there waiting for the BH to be hooked up again. (It must have been removed again after you tested the FEL to see if it worked better with the BH on.)

That existing BH fluid will mix with the newly changed fluid and dilute it a little with worn fluid. It is nothing to be concerned about since the vast majority of the fluid will be new.

There is a gauge made that can be plugged into the tractor's hydraulic lines to measure the pump's output pressure. I don't know much about it since I've never used one and what the output reading should be for your tractor is also unknown.

The dealer should know such things and have such a gauge. If the fluid change doesn't cause a marked improvement in FEL functioning then the tractor may have to go back to the dealer for diagnosis.

You can ask about all of this information when you go in for the filters and fluid. Let us know what the dealer thinks about this FEL anomaly that the tractor is experiencing.