BX Fuel Filter Recommendation

[Grouse Feathers]

I have read several threads on the replacement of the fuel filter on BX tractors, and I am still undecided on the need for replacing my filter. I would like some input on my question: Will I have fuel problem that could be prevented with an upgraded fuel filter? I live in an unusually cold area in northern Michigan, the last two winters we had temperatures below -30 F. I don’t expect to operate the tractor at -30 F, but I expect to sometimes be blowing snow at 0 F. In the winter I only buy 6 gallons of fuel at a time and fill the tractor through a 10 micron filter funnel. I have a half mile of driveway to clear and do not want a dead tractor somewhere along the driveway at 0 F with a 20 mph wind. I only have 5 months of tractor and diesel experience, are fuel problems unavoidable, will I have a problem someday regardless of filters and precautions?
If I replace the filter I am looking at a Racor 15 gph 10 micron diesel filter, http://www.amazon.com/Racor-Micron-...TF8&qid=1419742677&sr=8-3&keywords=racor+120a. With a filter for $79 the total cost should be under $100, cheap insurance or unnecessary expense?

Larry

 

[tcrote5516]

We get down to negative teens regularly/negative 20's here and there and I follow the service manual to a "t" using nothing but OEM equipment and have not had a single issue. While the filter system your looking at is very nice, I don't see any need for it.

I buy my fuel like you do, 5 - 10 gallons at a time. I'm sure to add treatment to the fuel I buy in September/October/November just in case it missed the winter blend cutoff. I don't pre filter it on the way into the Bota and it's been smooth saling.

My personal belief is the people that have fuel related problems either run untreated fuel (unknowingly in some cases) or fail to replace the filters as directed.

 

[davesl708]

I live in an area with wide temp swings mostly in the winter. 20 deg below freezing to 30 above freezing. I use the factory recommended filters.

On a side note. My friends 2012 B2630 has a Racor filter installed from the factory. So I guess which ever gives you the comfort level you need.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Thanks for the replies, I assume the limited number of responses says it all. Instead of upgrading I will stay with the OEM filter. I plan to adjust the maintenance schedule anyway to include at least a 100 hour service in November - December to be ready for the snow blowing season and that will include a new fuel filter.

Larry

 

[Stubbyie]

Dear Larry:

Regardless of fuel filter--and I'd stay with the OEM--in your part of the world and in winter you might consider the following:

1. Use a cetane enhancer combination de-gelling agent. Stanadyne, Power Source, Sta-Bil, SeaFoam (Stanadyne is the absolute best, recommended by Bosch that made your injectors),

2. Use a block heater or lower radiator hose heater for winter starts, and

3. Use a battery tender or manintainer.

With these considerations you'll get better results than changing to a different type fuel fitler.

I live a bit south of you and use all three methods religiously year round.

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.

 

[85Hokie]

I have read several threads on the replacement of the fuel filter on BX tractors, and I am still undecided on the need for replacing my filter. I would like some input on my question: Will I have fuel problem that could be prevented with an upgraded fuel filter? I live in an unusually cold area in northern Michigan, the last two winters we had temperatures below -30 F. I don’t expect to operate the tractor at -30 F, but I expect to sometimes be blowing snow at 0 F. In the winter I only buy 6 gallons of fuel at a time and fill the tractor through a 10 micron filter funnel. I have a half mile of driveway to clear and do not want a dead tractor somewhere along the driveway at 0 F with a 20 mph wind. I only have 5 months of tractor and diesel experience, are fuel problems unavoidable, will I have a problem someday regardless of filters and precautions?
If I replace the filter I am looking at a Racor 15 gph 10 micron diesel filter, http://www.amazon.com/Racor-Micron-...TF8&qid=1419742677&sr=8-3&keywords=racor+120a. With a filter for $79 the total cost should be under $100, cheap insurance or unnecessary expense?

Larry

Larry,

there have been lots of filter changes talk here, Paul (wildfire) has a great video on youtube and Wrencher2423 has done it also. I had thought about doing one myself. Having the MMM on most of the time - it is a realllll PITA to get to the rear filter!

One thing that I have done that is a lot easier, is to make sure the fuel is super clean BEFORE it hits the tank! I have been using the filter/funnel that traps everything from small dirt to water!

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Funnel-AF1...1431004009&sr=8-2&keywords=fuel+filter+funnel



I will be changing both fuel filters here soon and I will see if the clean before the tank is an effective route!

I have heard horror stories of the pre pump filter being completely stopped up!

 

[bh115577]

Just changed the filters again in mine last night trying to get rid of all the black algae. Pre pump filter was almost completely clogged again after only an hour on the meter since the last change. Completely drained the tank and ordered a new fuel tank cap in case some water got through it when the previous owner had it.

Anyone know what micron the factory filters are for the BX tractors?

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Dear Larry:

Regardless of fuel filter--and I'd stay with the OEM--in your part of the world and in winter you might consider the following:

1. Use a cetane enhancer combination de-gelling agent. Stanadyne, Power Source, Sta-Bil, SeaFoam (Stanadyne is the absolute best, recommended by Bosch that made your injectors),

2. Use a block heater or lower radiator hose heater for winter starts, and

3. Use a battery tender or manintainer.

With these considerations you'll get better results than changing to a different type fuel fitler.

I live a bit south of you and use all three methods religiously year round.

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.

stubbyie

Thanks I am already doing all of those. There are some threads here and in other forums about upgrading the fuel filter, but it sounded like it was only two or three who had fuel problems. I wanted some idea on how big of a problem the filters are, and since I am getting no responses from anyone one with a problem, I have better things to do than fix a problem that doesn't exist.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Just changed the filters again in mine last night trying to get rid of all the black algae. Pre pump filter was almost completely clogged again after only an hour on the meter since the last change. Completely drained the tank and ordered a new fuel tank cap in case some water got through it when the previous owner had it.

Anyone know what micron the factory filters are for the BX tractors?

Have you read the threads about putting a biocide treatment in the tank to kill the algae. I worked in a power plant and the lube oil for turbine generators was water cooled. The EPA required we run the water pressure higher than the oil pressure, and water in the oil almost always resulted in algae. After we killed the algae with biocide or heat we still had the filter out the slime. The same problem you are now having, the lube oil filters would plug up in a few hours plus we couldn't check the oil quality as the instrumentation would plug up. I suggest you dump the fuel in the tank, put in a fresh gallon or two of fuel with biocide, you may have to dump it again to get rid of the slime if your filter continues to plug.

Wow that was close, when I tried to post this I got the dreaded internal server error message (OTT site crashed) luckily I could page back and save my work.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Larry,

there have been lots of filter changes talk here, Paul (wildfire) has a great video on youtube and Wrencher2423 has done it also. I had thought about doing one myself. Having the MMM on most of the time - it is a realllll PITA to get to the rear filter!

One thing that I have done that is a lot easier, is to make sure the fuel is super clean BEFORE it hits the tank! I have been using the filter/funnel that traps everything from small dirt to water!

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Funnel-AF1...1431004009&sr=8-2&keywords=fuel+filter+funnel



I will be changing both fuel filters here soon and I will see if the clean before the tank is an effective route!

I have heard horror stories of the pre pump filter being completely stopped up!

85Hokie
It sounds like we are about the same place with this issue, concerned about the consequences, taking all the precautions, not sure if the modification is required, and continuing to re-evaluate. I don’t have a mmm so I have less hassle changing the filter, but I also have more cold exposure and maybe worse consequences.

 

[bh115577]

I drained the tank and have been running Napa's biocon for the last few hours on the clock. I'm sure I'll go through a few more filters before I get rid of all the algae.

 

[cerlawson]

I think this B filter thing is a factory blunder. I suspect the filters are much finer than needed for the job. I have had 4 other tractors (other makes) in the last 20 years and never had to change a fuel filter until this BX. This BX problem has me very irritated about Kubota in general. I don't hear of any plugged filters on their large models, so why this model? To go through all the grief that the Canadian (Paul) went through fora change seems like it might be time to trade in or sell the BX and try Blue. They have some about the same size. You don't see this problem discussed on their forum.

 

[tcrote5516]

I have to question the source of the fuel for those owners with problems. I have 250hrs and counting on mine and never had a fuel related issue. I changed mine at 100 and 200hrs and both filters were VERY clean at the time I removed them. In fact I would say, given how "dirty" they were I could get an easy 1000 trouble free hrs from a set if I wanted to push it.

 

[armylifer]

I have 191 hours on my tractor and I never changed the fuel filter. There are a couple of things that I do to ensure that my tractor starts no matter what weather. I always re-fuel the tractor right after shut down for the day. This prevents condensation from forming in the tank. In winter months I use Power Service in the white bottle. I add the PS to the bulk fuel tank (55 gal drum) whenever I get it filled. That way I am sure that I have done it and don't have to worry abut mixing it in the tractor.

I do the same things as stated above for my diesel pickup truck and my diesel Jetta too. I never had a problem with those vehicles either.

 

[BravoXray]

A good friend of mine told me to just buy offroad diesel in a five gallon can as needed. He was correct, I can't burn fuel fast enough to warrant having a bulk tank, and I have never had a problem. The fuel source is eight miles away, and they move a fair amount of offroad, so they keep it clean, and I don't have to worry about it. It's no big deal to top off my tank and go and get another five gallons, maybe once a month. The filters are cheap enough that I can change them before winter and forget about it until spring. I haven't even bothered with additives, I bought some Power Service last fall, but forgot about it, and didn't open the bottle yet.
Your mileage may vary, but I'm happy with what I've got.

Jerry

 

[cerlawson]

Hey 5516:

The filters removed don't show any dirt. All it takes is a clogged filter and the flow rate goes way down. You don't need a pile of crud in the up-gradient end. Try testing the flow rate of removed filters as compared to new and you may see what I am dealing with. Same fuel is used in a blue tractor here and no problem there.

 

[tcrote5516]

Hey 5516:

The filters removed don't show any dirt. All it takes is a clogged filter and the flow rate goes way down. You don't need a pile of crud in the up-gradient end. Try testing the flow rate of removed filters as compared to new and you may see what I am dealing with. Same fuel is used in a blue tractor here and no problem there.

I hear ya! I'm just sharing my experiance and when I say they were clear I mean not a speck of anything. Both looked brand new after 100 hrs.

You have a lot more experience (and more tractors) then myself so I don't doubt your issues. I just have had (happily) the complete opposite results so I don't think it's a global issue with all BX's.

 

[dfh1977]

I wonder if it might be possible to run the under body fuel filter to at least the deck and make it easier to change if needed. Naturally bleed line once changed.

 

[wv bc owner]

I bought a Mr gasket brand filter with replaceable element (about$12) for the filter then ($8) for a three pack of elements and new gaskets. This filter is glass and can be seen through. You can see how dirty it is at a glance. I run it underneath still a pain to change but you can see if it needs it.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[Gundoctor]

I think "Stubbyie" has given you great advice. The block heater is number one. I would add to the fuel" K100 treatment". Most farmers here now have change from Power Service to K100. I put Gas K100 in my car too. We get to -35' many mornings here in the winters.


New Haven
Vermont