BX 5450 Blower vs BX 5455 HD Blower

[forceten]

Posted this on another tractor board that I have used through the years. Somebody told me with my new kubota in the garage i should sign up on here and become a member and ask here also. So here I am

After looking for a long time, finally found a good used BX25d for sale. We had been looking for one for 6 months and I finally got to one before others. Brought her home last week.

Been using a ford lgt 145 with 44" blower and cab. But the BX25 will be used for lots more stuff than snow blowing.

I got the ok from my wife to get a hard cab and snowblower for the BX. Went to the dealer and got quotes for a curtis hard cab and snowblower setups.

The cab and heater and install they quoted me $4700 installed plus tax (ouch). I see I can get a cab from another place for $3,600 and heater for $400 and no tax. So debating weather I pony up the extra $900 and just have them do the 8 hour install or I bite the bullet and do it myself one weekend. Been looking around to see how hard it is to install a curtis cab and then run the lines and power for the blower. Nothing too hard but it does look like 8-10 hours of work. Was almost gonna skip buying the cab when i saw the price, but my wife gave me the ok and I usually don't get that - so gonna take advantage of it while I can I sold off a few of my other toys so I think thats why I have the go ahead....


My local dealer said there were new snowblowers this year out. I had a choice of the 50" bx5450 and the 55" bx5455hd

I tried asking them the differences but they weren't 100% sure. The 55" has the hydro chute already where the 50" it's and $800 add on. And with the cab I do want the hydro.

They are quoting me -

bx5450 $2000
Hdro chute $800

The BX5455 $3,400

So $600 difference

Both need
PTO $624
Mount $604


Anyone know, besides the 5 extra inches, whats the difference between the 5450 and the 5455?

What else am I getting for the extra $600?

 

[bxray]

If you are not dead set on a hard cab here is a soft one under $1000.00

http://www.orangeaftermarket.com/So...-Fits-60-70-and-70-1-Series_p_4143.html#guide

Ray

 

[Grouse Feathers]

The 5455 is heaver metal and is all gear driven. The 5450 has an internal drive chain. A friend with a 5450 picked up a piece of firewood and had to replace the chain last year (the shear pin didn't shear). He has a fairly new BX25 and has only used it one winter. I have no personal experience with the 5450. I have only used my 5455 for one year and it was a light year for snow here. Someone with more 5450 experience may give you a better idea of the chain reliability. I think last year was the first year for the 5455.

 

[forceten]

The 5455 is heaver metal and is all gear driven. The 5450 has an internal drive chain. A friend with a 5450 picked up a piece of firewood and had to replace the chain last year (the shear pin didn't shear). He has a fairly new BX25 and has only used it one winter. I have no personal experience with the 5450. I have only used my 5455 for one year and it was a light year for snow here. Someone with more 5450 experience may give you a better idea of the chain reliability. I think last year was the first year for the 5455.

Thanks for the reply! So you went with the 5455. Was it just the extra 5" that swayed you - or the fact that it was gear driven? Now that you told me that - for the extra $600, that might be worth it. Heavier metal, slightly larger, all gear driven.

Even with light snow - how did the 5455 work?

If you are not dead set on a hard cab here is a soft one under $1000.00

http://www.orangeaftermarket.com/So...-Fits-60-70-and-70-1-Series_p_4143.html#guide

Ray

Except for the price, I kinda like the curtis cab. With the removable rear so I can use the backhoe and winshield wiper in the front. And I can fold my rops down so I can fit the bx in the garage. I can remove the doors and tilt the roof and keep it on in the summer. Not sure how hard it is to completely remove a curtis cab in the spring and summer and put it back on for the winter.

Although that $1,000 price is attractive. Do you know if the rops can still be folded down with that soft cab? Looks like it in the pictures

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I have 1/2 mile of dirt and rock driveway plus extra around house and garage to clear so I went with the heavier duty, and wider blower. The wider blower clears around the house and garage faster, and just wide enough for two passes (out and in) to clear the driveway. The width was enough for me, but the HD is good also as I don't want a breakdown of tractor or snowblower with a 1/2 mile to clear.
At the start of the winter I held the rpm down on the new tractor, as the hours accumulated and I raised the rpm and the snowblower worked better and better. Throws the snow at 3200 rpm on the tractor.

I built a wooden cab for my tractor, but then woodworking is one of my hobbies. A cab of some kind is great if you are going to do much snow blowing.

 

[forceten]

Thanks for your help Larry!

Pulled the trigger on a cab and the HD blower today. My dealer said both were in stock so they should be in next week and then all put together by the end of the month.

Something I didn't know is how the blower mounts, i have to take off the front brush guard.......... And back on for the summer time.

Now i just have to have them show me how to take the blower and assembly on and off as its too early yet to have the snow blower hooked up. I am still using my bucket

I told them in the spring my next two goodies are gonna be a tiller and a land pride grapple for the front



Also another question. My old ford lgt tractor I put on rubber tire chains and also took the rear tires off and put WW fluid in them. Do you find with your 1/2 mile driveway - you need more weight in the back? Are your tires loaded? or do you use chains or a ballast box or anything?

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I have turf tires with the rears loaded. I use the a rear blade along with the snow blower for clearing snow. The blade works well around the house and garage to drag the snow out and then I blow it away form the buildings. The rear blade and loaded tires provides all the weight I need. Turf tires are good on snow because you have more edges in contact with the snow, and also good on my sandy soil. You may want a more aggressive tread for working in the dirt with your tiller.

 

[forceten]

I have turf tires with the rears loaded. I use the a rear blade along with the snow blower for clearing snow. The blade works well around the house and garage to drag the snow out and then I blow it away form the buildings. The rear blade and loaded tires provides all the weight I need. Turf tires are good on snow because you have more edges in contact with the snow, and also good on my sandy soil. You may want a more aggressive tread for working in the dirt with your tiller.

Already got the turf tires

Was gonna add a spreader to the back. I have two driveways but one is an asphalt driveway so I like to use snow melt. Gonna either use the three point hitch with a receiver attachment for the spreader, or use the 2" reciever already on the back of the tractor. Either way no room for a rear blade with the spreader in the way. Looks like I can see a way to add suitcase weights to the back using a heavy hitch for the three point. Just not sure I need it yet. Guess I will load the tires and run it through a winter.

Was almost tempted to leave the backhoe on for weight, but rather have it off while blowing. Less chance of me smacking into something and I want a spreader

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

This will be my 3rd winter and have not needed any ballast in the tires-R4. First year had bucket and rear blade, hell of a winter. So last year bought snowblower and still using rear blade, pretty mild winter for snow. So this year I picked up a slightly used front blade, still have blower and using the rear blade, bring it on. Maybe next year a cab

 

[forceten]

This will be my 3rd winter and have not needed any ballast in the tires-R4. First year had bucket and rear blade, hell of a winter. So last year bought snowblower and still using rear blade, pretty mild winter for snow. So this year I picked up a slightly used front blade, still have blower and using the rear blade, bring it on. Maybe next year a cab

I started out with a walk behind snow blower. Was fine until we had a winter from hell and a foot of snow after a foot of snow after a foot of snow. Must have been like 12 big storms that winter and many smaller ones.

After working 12-14 hours a day 7 days a week no way i wanted to keep using a push blower. Found an old ford lgt145 tractor with blower setup and cab. A pain in the ass to start and some blow by fumes. but it was still oh so nice to sit down and ride instead of walk/push. And when the wind was blowing the cab was a god send. But being an old tractor it was always something needing fixing. And of course blowers aren't great with wet and heavy snow. So we had an atv, I throw on a plow and even though i froze sometimes on top - it would be good when the wet heavy small amounts of snow was around.

But after renting a kubota this past spring to do some yard work and fix some of our rocked driveways, I knew I wanted one. As a backup mower, a digger and such for the yard. And then we sat down and talked about spending a bit more - and getting rid of the ford and just have the kubota do the snow also.

I have never used a rear blade. But i see both of you guys love yours........ I already have a salt spreader on the atv. I don't have to put one on the kubota. Your rear blades go on the 3 point hitch? Is it just like running a front plow? You dont really plow an entire driveway with it do you? Just to move snow away from the garage door and such?

 

[skeets]

Yes you can in fact plow the whole thing with the rear blade, its a PIA but it can be done. If the snow is say over 8 inches it starts getting a little tough, at least for me For getting snow cleared from around the garage doors side walks and stuff like that ya cant beat it,, However I will say this if your going to use the back blade PLAY WITH IT NOW. Get a feel for how it works, where to set the top link so its not digging in to much how to adjust the blade angle and how it works with the blade reversed and so on. Just remember that the back blade is designed to pull, not push, it will push but you just have to take it easy and be careful, else you twist it up a bit. I think your set up will do just fine for everything you want to with her, OH and some pictures we loves our tractor porn,,

 

[Grouse Feathers]

If you just use a blade front or rear and have a lot of snow over the winter you can run out of room. The blower gets it out of the way. If you get a rear blade using it reversed works good , but there are other options too. Some people cut a slot in plastic or steel pipe and drive it on the blade cutting edge. Others add a rubber cutting edge to the blade.

You may be adjusting the shoes on your blower a lot early in the winter. You will probably want to get all the snow off the asphalt, but will want the blower raised over gravel,dirt, or lawn at least until you build up a good packed snow base. One option would be to leave the shoes down to raise the blower, and clean up the asphalt with a rear blade with a pipe or rubber on the cutting edge.

If you start buying 3 point hitch equipment it's not to bad putting on a 3 point implement, but it becomes a pita if you start regularly switching implements. Quick hitch compatible implements and / or stabilizers can make it easier. The best source for stabilizers are hodge, a member of OTT

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

The rear is made for pulling but I've pushed too. Just be carefull pushing and driving all the time in reverse is a PITA. With the rops up, i cant fit in the main garage so I sneak the rear blade in and also pull the snow away from the shed. I slit a 1.5" pvc pipe and slid it over the cutting edge of the blower last year. Worked like a charm floating it over the grass for clearing space for the dogs.

 

[BAP]

The 5455 is heaver metal and is all gear driven. The 5450 has an internal drive chain. A friend with a 5450 picked up a piece of firewood and had to replace the chain last year (the shear pin didn't shear). He has a fairly new BX25 and has only used it one winter. I have no personal experience with the 5450. I have only used my 5455 for one year and it was a light year for snow here. Someone with more 5450 experience may give you a better idea of the chain reliability. I think last year was the first year for the 5455.

Does the gear box on the drive line use gear oil or grease?

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Does the gear box on the drive line use gear oil or grease?

The gear box uses 80W90 gear oil.

 

[forceten]

The gear box uses 80W90 gear oil.

Is there a dip stick or way to check the level?

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Like most gear drives there is a drain plug and a fill plug. You fill the oil reservoir to the bottom of the fill hole.

 

[forceten]

Thanks for the help guys, she just got dropped back off to me today. Barely fits in the garage, but makes it with 3 inches to spare.

that 55" is big - I'm gonna have to arrange my garage different on one side so it sits side by side with our atv/plow setup.

 

[kevin in nh]

I bought a BX2660 in 2011 w/front loader, 60"mower 3 bagger, and a 2750D 50" snow blower. everything looked pretty rugged except the blower looked pretty cheaply made compared to everything else. I had an old JD blower that took 3 men and a strong boy to put on and take off a 422 JD. The 2750 worked pretty good but started to show stress and cracks in the metal after 4 years. Well this year it is 6 years old and the stress on the metal was getting more noticeable and the impeller fan became bent and I had to heat it and beat it into submission to get through the latest NH storm 2/12&13/2107. It worked but it was beat so back to the dealer who wanted to sell me the 5450 and the difficulties began as I had the electric chute and a Curtis Cab (LOVE IT) no more freezing my butt off. Anyway I ended up ordering the 5455HD with the Hydro control which is supposed to be a lot beefier than the 2750 or the replacement 5450.......more expensive but I plan on keeping the tractor for life. I will let you all know how it works out....kevin

 

[forceten]

I've already broken about 6 shear pins. The weight of the 5455 compared to my old ford lgt is a killer over rocks. In NJ the snow keeps melting so there is NEVER a base that can be formed with the snow. So over asphalt its so great, but over rocks a different story. Snow shoes just don't cut it with softer rocks and no snow base.

I have gone through 5 different types of add on wheel designs until i finally perfected it. I now have 12" no flat swivel wheels with brackets that i can adjust up and down. And the wheels unpin and slide right off when doing the asphalt part. So no more broken sheer pins!