Bottom of my bucket has no paint
- Thread starter Bearcatrp
- Start date
I noticed the bottom of my bucket was rusty the other day, so your post caught my eye. I remember Dad dosing the moldboards on the old plow with used motor oil so they were easier to roll sod the next year. But I've decided that I've been neglecting to use my bucket enough this year so I'll try to do better, haha.
As far as back dragging, I have been pleased and rely for the most part on reversing the back blade at the 45 degrees mentioned, and using the front loader bucket with "Edge tamer" runners to stabilize the tendency to rock on the short wheel base CUT (L2501). Worked well smoothing the 150 tons of 3/4 and less road base that comprised the walking path at our church.
As far as back dragging, I have been pleased and rely for the most part on reversing the back blade at the 45 degrees mentioned, and using the front loader bucket with "Edge tamer" runners to stabilize the tendency to rock on the short wheel base CUT (L2501). Worked well smoothing the 150 tons of 3/4 and less road base that comprised the walking path at our church.
Attachments
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Yeah, need to learn to use the blade instead of the bucket when back dragging. Will paint it in the spring.
I've back dragged buckets off and on for decades, and never blew out a cylinder. Of course, I never angle it to cut, just to pull loose material.
For leveling out a large area of loose material, we used to do what we called "spinning". Set the scraper or "box blade" on your 3 pt, top link tilted way back, so only the rear facing blade hits the ground. Then, on float, go forward like hell in mid or even high range and go in circles. Figure 8's etc. Head over the high spots and drag it to the lows. Did final grade on tract homes with a Massey Skip for years. Super fast and efficient.
Edit: There's a science to it, you normally want the front blade about 1" higher that the rear blade. On some box scrapers, the rear blade is on a hinge...lock it in place.
No monkeying around with a back blade, those came later and have thier place. But an experienced operator can do wonders with a box scraper.
For leveling out a large area of loose material, we used to do what we called "spinning". Set the scraper or "box blade" on your 3 pt, top link tilted way back, so only the rear facing blade hits the ground. Then, on float, go forward like hell in mid or even high range and go in circles. Figure 8's etc. Head over the high spots and drag it to the lows. Did final grade on tract homes with a Massey Skip for years. Super fast and efficient.
Edit: There's a science to it, you normally want the front blade about 1" higher that the rear blade. On some box scrapers, the rear blade is on a hinge...lock it in place.
No monkeying around with a back blade, those came later and have thier place. But an experienced operator can do wonders with a box scraper.
Last edited:
Yes Sir. Lots of newer folks buying tractors and have little or no experience.Time and use teaches things
We just want to help them.
Rear single blades have thier purpose, but they are difficult because it's not supported by a second blade. A box scraper has that and is easier to learn. In my experience.
Last edited:
Reminds me of a quote from my favorite President...
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in this world. The Marines don't have that problem.”
Semper Fi
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in this world. The Marines don't have that problem.”
Semper Fi
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
If you have a land plane, I'd be getting some experience with it. Trial and error is the best way to learn. Nothing wrong with that. The opinionated
It's intended use is exactly what you're doing by back-dragging, but will be much more efficient and effective.
Your tractor has a "1/4-inching valve" for 3-PH level control. Means a slight "tap" up or down on your control level will move it up or down about 1/4". Takes some practice, but if your plane was overly aggressive might be as simple as a slight increase in height, or possibly and adjustment of the top link on your 3 PH.
Many folks here say a land plane is the bee's knees for periodic stone driveway maintenance, and much easier to use versus a box blade.
Never used one but have seen many pictures on OTT with great results.
Good luck and thanks for your service.
Last edited: