BF300-A Loader - boom cylinder parts

brucenjen

New member

Equipment
Kubota B8200D BF300-A
Nov 12, 2022
5
1
1
Tucson, Arizona
This is the loader on my Kubota B8200D.
Parts are discontinued. I need 2 end cylinders - these are the cage for the wiper seals [Item 50].
Anyone have old cylinders for salvage? OR
What cylinders can I use to replace the OEM cylinders and tips on doing that? OR
Any ideas?
 

Thatoneguy

Member

Equipment
Kubota b7200
May 20, 2022
53
9
8
Southern California
What is wrong with your boom cylinders that you are trying to replace them completely?

If they are leaking, take the seals out of one of them and take them to a local hydraulic shop and have the seals matched up. I did this for my boom cylinders and total cost for both cylinders was a fraction of what the kits cost me for the bucket seal kits from the dealer.

If you want to replace them, you can usually find them on a hydraulic surplus website. A few guys on here know of some pretty good sites to order what you need... the web sites escape me at the moment.
 

TheOldHokie

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This is the loader on my Kubota B8200D.
Parts are discontinued. I need 2 end cylinders - these are the cage for the wiper seals [Item 50].
Anyone have old cylinders for salvage? OR
What cylinders can I use to replace the OEM cylinders and tips on doing that? OR
Any ideas?
Aftermarket loader cylinders are the simple and reliable way to go. Figure about $175 each. To buy you need to know:

  1. Cylinder bore diameter
  2. Rod diameter
  3. Retracted length pin to pin
  4. Stroke
  5. Pin size
  6. Width at the ends
You don't have to have a perfect match on stroke and retracted length but it should be within an inch or two at the most.

Gather that information from your old cylinders and post it here and I will point you to soem candidates. Here are two replacements I put on my B7200 with B1730 loader - work flawlessly.

Dan

20220519_125633.jpg
 

brucenjen

New member

Equipment
Kubota B8200D BF300-A
Nov 12, 2022
5
1
1
Tucson, Arizona
What is wrong with your boom cylinders that you are trying to replace them completely?

If they are leaking, take the seals out of one of them and take them to a local hydraulic shop and have the seals matched up. I did this for my boom cylinders and total cost for both cylinders was a fraction of what the kits cost me for the bucket seal kits from the dealer.

If you want to replace them, you can usually find them on a hydraulic surplus website. A few guys on here know of some pretty good sites to order what you need... the web sites escape me at the moment.
It's the end cylinders that need replacement. This is a metal part that is discontinued. I can go to a local shop for the seals.
The end cylinders don't have a seal around the outside end. Grunge gets in there and cements them in place. You have to move the end cylinder down 1/16" to be able to take out the snap ring. The end cylinders were damaged in the process. I had to cut off the piston ends of the cylinders to get the rods out. I could weld the ends back on but I need replacement end cylinders. This is item 50 on the parts diagram that I attached. The end cylinder is the part that the piston rod passes through and is a cage that holds the seals.
If I can find some old cylinders, I can cut the tube horizontally and remove the end cylinder without damage to the cylinder.
I'll probably end up getting aftermarket replacements.
 

Thatoneguy

Member

Equipment
Kubota b7200
May 20, 2022
53
9
8
Southern California
Oh i see, sorry i didnt see any parts diagram. I would suggest getting the info dan requested and go from there. He is a wizard when it comes to hydraulics. He helped me a great deal with my b1630 loader.... at 175 bucks a cylinder... its well worth the price to not have to source used parts.
 

GeoHorn

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M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
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Texas
Aftermarket loader cylinders are the simple and reliable way to go. Figure about $175 each. To buy you need to know:

  1. Cylinder bore diameter
  2. Rod diameter
  3. Retracted length pin to pin
  4. Stroke
  5. Pin size
  6. Width at the ends
You don't have to have a perfect match on stroke and retracted length but it should be within an inch or two at the most.

Gather that information from your old cylinders and post it here and I will point you to soem candidates. Here are two replacements I put on my B7200 with B1730 loader - work flawlessly.

Dan

View attachment 90498
AND…. consider what type hyd fittings exist on current cyls unless you want to spend $ on new
”custom” hoses…which may have different fitings at each end. ;)
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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windyridgefarm.us
AND…. consider what type hyd fittings exist on current cyls unless you want to spend $ on new
”custom” hoses…which may have different fitings at each end. ;)
You will notice I never mentioned that and the reason is real simple - port adapters are dirt cheap.

Dan
 
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brucenjen

New member

Equipment
Kubota B8200D BF300-A
Nov 12, 2022
5
1
1
Tucson, Arizona
Aftermarket loader cylinders are the simple and reliable way to go. Figure about $175 each. To buy you need to know:

  1. Cylinder bore diameter
  2. Rod diameter
  3. Retracted length pin to pin
  4. Stroke
  5. Pin size
  6. Width at the ends
You don't have to have a perfect match on stroke and retracted length but it should be within an inch or two at the most.

Gather that information from your old cylinders and post it here and I will point you to soem candidates. Here are two replacements I put on my B7200 with B1730 loader - work flawlessly.

Dan

View attachment 90498
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide ~ Bruce

center of pins
closed 26 3/8” ~ 670mm
opens to 44” ~ 1118mm
..........17 5/8” stroke ~ 448mm

Piston rod is 30mm = 1.181 ~ 1 3/16”

Cylinder barrel bore = 45mm = 1.771” ~ 1 13/16”

Pin size = 1”

Width at Ends
.........Rear: 60mm = 2.36” ~ 2 3/8”
.........Front: 45mm = 1.771 ~ 1 13/16
 
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TheOldHokie

Well-known member

Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
3,322
1,593
113
Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide ~ Bruce

center of pins
closed 26 3/8” ~ 670mm
opens to 44” ~ 1118mm
..........17 5/8” stroke ~ 448mm

Piston rod is 30mm = 1.181 ~ 1 3/16”

Cylinder barrel bore = 45mm = 1.771” ~ 1 13/16”

Pin size = 1”

Width at Ends
.........Rear: 60mm = 2.36” ~ 2 3/8”
.........Front: 45mm = 1.771 ~ 1 13/16
Pretty conventional. You provided metric dimensions - are you located outside the USA?

Here are a three close matches. Your "width at front" end number is the same as barrel diameter - is that the end you are talking about and if so whats the width of the clevis on the frame where it mounts? You might need to trim the cross tubes on an aftermarket sylinder to get it to fit inside that clevis. None of these are a perfect match but all should work fine if they will fit the end mountings on the loader

Dan



 

D2Cat

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40 miles south of Kansas City
Pretty conventional. You provided metric dimensions - are you located outside the USA?

Here are a three close matches. Your "width at front" end number is the same as barrel diameter - is that the end you are talking about and if so whats the width of the clevis on the frame where it mounts? You might need to trim the cross tubes on an aftermarket sylinder to get it to fit inside that clevis. None of these are a perfect match but all should work fine if they will fit the end mountings on the loader

Dan



You can often times put your cursor on the poster's moniker and see their location. This case....Tucson, Arizona.
 

brucenjen

New member

Equipment
Kubota B8200D BF300-A
Nov 12, 2022
5
1
1
Tucson, Arizona
Pretty conventional. You provided metric dimensions - are you located outside the USA?

Here are a three close matches. Your "width at front" end number is the same as barrel diameter - is that the end you are talking about and if so whats the width of the clevis on the frame where it mounts? You might need to trim the cross tubes on an aftermarket sylinder to get it to fit inside that clevis. None of these are a perfect match but all should work fine if they will fit the end mountings on the loader

Dan



Thanks for your help.

I'm in Arizona. I read that the b8200 was initially built in Japan. The dimensions seem to reflect that idea. I used the metric dimensions to double check my measurements.
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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Wow - the cylinders are made in Ukraine. All 3 are out of stock - March, maybe a little earlier due to Bulgaria factory opening.

I'm looking at Tie-Rod cylinders made in China. Are tie rod ends a problem?

Maxim 218-310 $177.12 Hydraulic Cylinder, 2" Bore, 18" Stroke | Zoro.com
Yes - understandably given the workd situation availability seems to be hit or miss on teh Mahister cylinders. I got the ones I ordered a while back and FAST - like overnight. I even got a big log splitter cylinder I did not order a couple weeks ago :p

Probably going to be frame interference problems with the tie rod cylinders. Welded is going to be a lot safer.

Dan
 

shortbusjeep

New member

Equipment
B8200 bf300a
Nov 24, 2022
2
0
1
85641
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide ~ Bruce

center of pins
closed 26 3/8” ~ 670mm
opens to 44” ~ 1118mm
..........17 5/8” stroke ~ 448mm

Piston rod is 30mm = 1.181 ~ 1 3/16”

Cylinder barrel bore = 45mm = 1.771” ~ 1 13/16”

Pin size = 1”

Width at Ends
.........Rear: 60mm = 2.36” ~ 2 3/8”
.........Front: 45mm = 1.771 ~ 1 13/16
Hello I picked up a b8200 with a bf300a with no cylinders on it. Could you by chance measure the bucket cylinders aswell I'm hoping to get it running with replacements.

Thanks

Tyler
 

Vigo

Active member

Equipment
B6100, B8200
Jan 9, 2022
325
139
43
San Antonio Texas
Bummer that the cylinders were destroyed.

FYI the part being referred to is the ‘gland’. I cant see the diagram but the other descriptions make it clear.

On my b8200 w/bf300 i had no real trouble getting the glands to move in a bit to remove the retaining ring. You do need to tap them usually with some kind of drift that isn’t going to damage the cylinder rod if you slip. For future reference, if you simply could not get the the gland to move in the conventional way, you COULD tilt the bucket down a bit below level, and then cut a piece of angle iron perhaps 1-1.5” on a side, to the length of cylinder rod that is exposed. Put a piece of cardboard or rag etc between the angle iron and the cylinde rod, lay the angle iron on the rod and strap to it (probably with hose clamps but really anything you come up with), and then remove the base end hose from the bucket cyls or at least loosen it until it is good and leaky. 😂 Then bang the bucket into the ground with the loader arms. Should be that the angle iron will transfer the force from the cylinder rod onto the top of the gland and drive it in just a bit. Remove the retaining ring. Now the gland might be good and stuck in THAT direction but thats ok because you can push it out with the hydraulics.

Just reconnect the base end hose, unhook the cylinder rod from the bucket, and slowly push lever to extend bucket cylinder until it is fully extended. Once it is fully extended, any further hydraulic pressure will drive the whole gland/rod/piston assembly out of the cylinder. Just go slow so it doesn’t pop out too quickly/forcefully.

Now, it WILL dump a whole cylinder worth of fluid out if the cylinder is pointed down during this, so have a catch pan and a catch man. The man is for catching the rod so it doesnt bang into something on the way to the ground and put a nice ding in your shiny chrome. 😂 If you’re working by yourself you could do something like get a pool noodle and cut a slit in it or some of that foam pipe insulation and just cut it to length and slip it around the rod. If the bucket will actually mechanically rotate further than the cylinder can extend you can just leave the rod end hooked to bucket (other cylinder must have rod unhooked though) and have bucket edge only an inch or so above ground so when the rod pops out it basically doesn’t go anywhere.

Anyway, that’s for next time. Good luck with your cylinder search. 👍
 
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TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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Hello I picked up a b8200 with a bf300a with no cylinders on it. Could you by chance measure the bucket cylinders aswell I'm hoping to get it running with replacements.

Thanks

Tyler
Should be easy enough to measure your loader. Center to center distance of pin holes with bucket in full roll back and dump position. Match that up to a couple 1.5" bore welded cross tube cylinders and you should be good to go.

Dan
 

Vigo

Active member

Equipment
B6100, B8200
Jan 9, 2022
325
139
43
San Antonio Texas
I dont think it will be THAT easy in this case because the base end attachment brackets are narrower than the actual cylinder OD, so not only does it need a crosstube, it also needs that crosstube to be far enough ‘off’ the cylinder housing that you can narrow it to fit in the stock brackets. If you welded a tube directly to the cylinder base end you couldn’t really narrow that to be narrower than the cylinder itself because then the attachment brackets would only have like 1/8” clearance from the pin to the bottom of the cylinder and the brackets probably need something closer to 2-3” in real life. See if you can see what i mean here.
1669435136672.jpeg

But if OP is comfortable welding on cylinders he could just chop that section off his fubar’d cylinders and weld it to the bottom of the new ones.
 
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TheOldHokie

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I dont think it will be THAT easy in this case because the base end attachment brackets are narrower than the actual cylinder OD, so not only does it need a crosstube, it also needs that crosstube to be far enough ‘off’ the cylinder housing that you can narrow it to fit in the stock brackets. If you welded a tube directly to the cylinder base end you couldn’t really narrow that to be narrower than the cylinder itself because then the attachment brackets would only have like 1/8” clearance from the pin to the bottom of the cylinder and the brackets probably need something closer to 2-3” in real life. See if you can see what i mean here.
View attachment 91226
But if OP is comfortable welding on cylinders he could just chop that section off his fubar’d cylinders and weld it to the bottom of the new ones.
I was responding to the gentleman that has a loader with missing cylinders. I do see the issue and it does not look like an OTS cylinder will work there without a little modification.

You still measure the retracted length and stroke just as I described and take the added length of the base end stub into account when buying the new cylinders

A welding ship can weld a stub on there PDQ. Might also want to have a look at something like this. It gets you 2" of base end extension and might actually work OTS.


Dan
 
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Vigo

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B6100, B8200
Jan 9, 2022
325
139
43
San Antonio Texas
Looks like the crucial search term is ‘tang’ ended cylinders. Very useful tidbit to pick up, thanks for posting that! 👍
 
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