Better than OEM Rear Outlets

TheOldHokie

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When I went to buy an L3901 three years ago I was appalled at the crappy rear remote outlets that Kubota provided. So the first thing I did when my tractor arrived was fabricae an outlet mounting panel for the rear. After several years of using teh tractor I decided it wasn;t optimal and set out to duplicate the OEM outlets used on most of the much nicer OEM outlets used on the other models. They are nicely done and Kubota thinks quite highly of them - about $500 per set highly!!!

Then I started looking at the outlets on their bigger agricultural machines and decided I liked them even more. So here is my hybrid DIY implementation of the two.

The couplers are Faster 4SRHF one hand push/pull couplers and can be connected and disconnected under full system pressure up to 3600 PSI. No more fighting with residual pressures.


The couplers are mounted in individual support blocks that are modular and can be stacked up to 3 high like the very pricey OEM outlets The blocks are mounted to a cross bar (stay in Kubota speak) that bolts to the existing fasteners on the fender stays. The stay is drilled for three stacks left, center, and right for 9 sets on the back of an L01 and if you are a glutton for punishment I am sure you can cram on more.

The blocks are either free flow or can incorporate double pilot operated check valve to prevent drift. Cost for a set of free flow outlets is less than half of the high dollar OEM outlets. The DPOCV option adds another $125 but is still less than OEM.

I only purchased two couplers for prototyping and I am waiting on Faster to ship some more but decided to share a few pictures.

Dan

No Drill Stay Mounting Brackets

20240315_170141[1].jpg


Support Stay with One Set Center Mounted Outlets

20240315_171457[1].jpg


Rear View with Two Additional Empty Blocks Added in Left Position

20240315_173413[1].jpg
 
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jyoutz

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Nice work. Now how did you mount the levers?
 

TheOldHokie

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Nice work. Now how did you mount the levers?
You are asking a lot out of a man with two nearly useless lungs :D

Right now I am using the two spool Summit valve I mounted on the loader post before my health went south. I have not made the new hoses for that yet - hopefully one set this this weekend to the center outlets on the back along with two more for the hydraulic top link that has been languishing on the end of the bench. Then two more hoses and two hard lines down the boom and another set of couplers for the third function that I will be running off the second spool in the Summit valve.

L3901_EZ-PZ_Remotes.jpg


Assuming I get that far before I get called for surgery I will be back to the better than OEM valves that started this whole thing. You were close with the handles comment. I had taken that all the way up to figuring out the crazy handle setup needed to mount my the valves under the seat like the OEM setup, I beleive I now have that figured out and that will be the final step to a full redesign of Kubotas overpriced and poor sister offerings for the L01s. Only 3 years invested so far with a year plus of that off for major medical :oops:

20211101_155356.jpg
 
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DustyRusty

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You should be a designer for Kubota or Landpride designing better ideas of how to accomplish things that are both better and less expensive.
 

TheOldHokie

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You should be a designer for Kubota or Landpride designing better ideas of how to accomplish things that are both better and less expensive.
Thank you for the complement. But I am quite convinced that when it comes to the L01s they want neither.

I was ready to buy OEM remotes along with the tractor and had them on the initial order until I saw what I was actually going to get. Kubota could easily have used the same upscale outlets used on the B, LX, Grand L, MX, and M models but they opted to cheap out with something DIY. That pissed me off and I canceled that almost $3000 option.

Dan
 

GeoHorn

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Hokie… That work is OUTSTANDING!

Thanks for sharing.
 
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jyoutz

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You are asking a lot out of a man with two nearly useless lungs :D

Right now I am using the two spool Summit valve I mounted on the loader post before my health went south. I have not made the new hoses for that yet - hopefully one set this this weekend to the center outlets on the back along with two more for the hydraulic top link that has been languishing on the end of the bench. Then two more hoses and two hard lines down the boom and another set of couplers for the third function that I will be running off the second spool in the Summit valve.

View attachment 124343

Assuming I get that far before I get called for surgery I will be back to the better than OEM valves that started this whole thing. You were close with the handles comment. I had taken that all the way up to figuring out the crazy handle setup needed to mount my the valves under the seat like the OEM setup, I beleive I now have that figured out and that will be the final step to a full redesign of Kubotas overpriced and poor sister offerings for the L01s. Only 3 years invested so far with a year plus of that off for major medical :oops:

View attachment 124347
Nice work so far. I’m sure you’ll have a very nice set up when you’re done. Best of wishes for your surgery, recovery, and future tractor time.
 
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mcmxi

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Very nice work @TheOldHokie! I have the Faster couplers on my M6060 and they are nice for sure. I find the layout of the levers in the cab to be intuitive too with left to right matching bottom to top on the stack. The snap caps that keep crap out of the coupler are a nice addition.

As a point of reference, the M6060 comes standard with the 1st position lever kit and rear remote (SCD). The dealer in Sheridan, WY had ordered the tractor with a 2nd position lever kit and rear remote (FD). I had the local dealer in Kalispell install the 3rd position lever kit and rear remote (FD). There was at least one price increase between the time the dealer in Wyoming had ordered the M6060 and when I had the local dealer install the 3rd lever and valve.

2nd position lever kit $150
Rear remote valve (FD) $750
Labor $0

3rd position lever kit $163
Rear remote valve (FD) $796
Labor $250

Those kits include hydraulic hoses and Faster couplers of course.

m6060_faster_couplers.jpg
 
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TheOldHokie

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Very nice work @TheOldHokie! I have the Faster couplers on my M6060 and they are nice for sure. I find the layout of the levers in the cab to be intuitive too with left to right matching bottom to top on the stack. The snap caps that keep crap out of the coupler are a nice addition.

As a point of reference, the M6060 comes standard with the 1st position lever kit and rear remote (SCD). The dealer in Sheridan, WY had ordered the tractor with a 2nd position lever kit and rear remote (FD). I had the local dealer in Kalispell install the 3rd position lever kit and rear remote (FD). There was at least one price increase between the time the dealer in Wyoming had ordered the M6060 and when I had the local dealer install the 3rd lever and valve.

2nd position lever kit $150
Rear remote valve (FD) $750
Labor $0

3rd position lever kit $163
Rear remote valve (FD) $796
Labor $250

Those kits include hydraulic hoses and Faster couplers of course.

View attachment 124372
Exactly. I briefly toyed with the idea of cloning that complete with valves instead of the mounting blocks but the cost of the control cables makes it very pricey. Plus mounting space is a bit tight on an L01 so I settled for just the couplers.

Commodity prices for perspective:
  1. Spring center work section: $123 ea.
  2. Float detent work section: $177 ea.
  3. Faster 4RSHF couplers: $40 ea.
  4. Lever with cable and spool connection kit $170 each
Total per rear remote valve comes out around $350 - $400.

JFYI your couplers are probably the older (obsolete) 4RSHV which is replaced by the 4RSHF.

Dan
 
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mcmxi

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Exactly. I briefly toyed with the idea of cloning that complete with valves instead of the mounting blocks but the cost of the control cables makes it very pricey. Plus mounting space is a bit tight on an L01 so I settled for just the couplers.

Commodity prices for perspective:
  1. Spring center work section: $123 ea.
  2. Float detent work section: $177 ea.
  3. Faster 4RSHF couplers: $40 ea.
  4. Lever with cable and spool connection kit $170 each
JFYI your couplers are probably the older (obsolete) 4RSHV which is replaced by the 4RSHF.

Dan
They have CFPV-4SFPV-2 ID2 stamped on them. Probably means that they're circa 1950! 😂

faster_couplers.jpg
 

TheOldHokie

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They have CFPV-4SFPV-2 ID2 stamped on them. Probably means that they're circa 1950! 😂

View attachment 124385
I think the 4SFPV are still current. They are breakaway couplers and do not have the connect under full pressure capability of the 4SRPV/4SRHF couplers. Otherwise they are identical.

Dan
 
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Runs With Scissors

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Very nice job @TheOldHokie .

Very interesting..........So let me get this straight.

If I swap out my grapple couplers for those 4SRPV/4SRHF couplers, I could keep my machine running and connect/disconnect the grapple without having to turn the machine off and bleed off the pressure?
 
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TheOldHokie

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Very nice job @TheOldHokie .

Very interesting..........So let me get this straight.

If I swap out my grapple couplers for those 4SRPV/4SRHF couplers, I could keep my machine running and connect/disconnect the grapple without having to turn the machine off and bleed off the pressure?
In a nutshell - yes.


Dan
 

Russell King

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So whats the catch to them?

Do they accidentally "pop off" a lot, or are they "notoriously problematic"?
The catch is probably the cost difference between the two styles of couplers. Remember that a few bucks doesn’t make a difference to one unit but over a few thousand units that is a lot of profit that is gone.

And i recall seeing that some have the male removable under pressure and some are female removable under pressure. If you have a mixed set on the implement that may matter (but I am not sure)
 

TheOldHokie

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The catch is probably the cost difference between the two styles of couplers. Remember that a few bucks doesn’t make a difference to one unit but over a few thousand units that is a lot of profit that is gone.

And i recall seeing that some have the male removable under pressure and some are female removable under pressure. If you have a mixed set on the implement that may matter (but I am not sure)
The female half contains the pressure relief mechanism and is all thats needed for connect under pressure on both sides.

Notice the male tip used in the video is a Faster NV - a vanilla ISO 5675 agricultural male coupler. The 4SRHF/4SRPV is fully functional using the tips you get at your local tractor supply

The newer 4SRHF "high flow" coupler is rated for 18.5 GPM and 3625 PSI which is overkill for a typical CUT. Online retail price is $100 - $150 plus but with a little searching can be found for under $40. I just purchased four more to go with thw two I have and the total was $151 plus $35 for UPS shipping.

Dan
 
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Russell King

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Dan,

your design and work look outstanding!

Could the blocks be one longer piece instead of the short ones? Is there a need to make them short that is not obvious?

I guess you could add some sort of selection valve to select various blocks at the rear and only have one or two control valves? May not be necessary or cost effective though.
 

TheOldHokie

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Dan,

your design and work look outstanding!

Could the blocks be one longer piece instead of the short ones? Is there a need to make them short that is not obvious?

I guess you could add some sort of selection valve to select various blocks at the rear and only have one or two control valves? May not be necessary or cost effective though.
I had a full rear panel solution that I decided to abandon because it was overkill for just one or two sets of outlets.

20210922_083608.jpg


The blocks are designed to mimic the modular mounting system used by Kubota on just about everything but the Standard L. Here is picture of how that works.

P1050634a (1).jpg


in my case multiple stacks can be mounted anywhere along my stay bar, on a ROPS bracket, or bolted to the top of a fender for increased flexibilty. If you wanted one high all the way across you would just need to drill some more holes in thevstay bar.

The size of the blocks was chosen to exactly match the dimensions of Summit Hydraulics DPOCV. Ther check valves can be combinwd in the same stack with my shop made blocks to fit the individual users needs/ wants.


And now @MCMXL has put an old burr back under my saddle and I have been out in the shop playing with some sectionals and that new stay bar....

Dan
 
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mcmxi

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And now @MCMXL has put an old burr back under my saddle and I have been out in the shop playing with some sectionals and that new stay bar....

Dan
Happy to be of service! 😂

I've been out in the shop working on a welding project most of the weekend. Nothing as technical as your project, but still lots of head-scratching, cutting, drilling and welding.

Your picture above of the stack of valves is basically what I have on the MX, except I'm not smart enough to remember which hoses go where so have to color code and number everything. :giggle:

outback_hose_markers.jpg