Bent supports on shredder

[GeoHorn]

I always used a simple 3-pt hitch to my 72" Rhino shredder (rotary cutter) and never had a problem, but when I bought the Kubota M4700DT it came with a quick hitch.
I mowed one day with it and no problem. My step son came out the other day and offered to mow so we hooked it up and off he went. When he came in at the end of the day the supports from the top-link hitch to the back of the shredder were all bent out of shape and it caused me to recall when NIW mentioned/posted that the top-link (swinging) on a shredder should be remounted so that the support arms connect to the rear of the link and the front should be "fixed".
I did that and straightened the support arms.

I mowed yesterday and went thru only one minor "swale" and the support arms are all bent up again.

What am I missing?

PS: the pics show the 3-pt pushed aft a bit so the swiviel is in an "up" position, but it all easily flexed... which is why I'm surprised I'm dealing with bent support arms again. Any education sent my way will be appreciated.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Not sure. MY 9 foot Landpride RCM has a floating linkage as well but it looks different than yours does. I have run through swales with no issue...yet.

Mine has a couple different adjustment holes but I leave it where the dealer set it when he delivered it. I do leave my 3 point in full float and level the cutter with the top link. MY draft linkage is in the lowest hole too and the draft sensing I st at minumum.

I'll have to go to the barn tomorrow and pull the manual and report back.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
The yoke is not installed correct. Remove the bolt and pin. The open end is for your top link. Put the bolt through the other hole with your side braces on each side . The bolt needs to be lose so things can move . The bolt will need a lock but or double nut.
Good Luck Lance

 

[GeoHorn]

Hello
The yoke is not installed correct. Remove the bolt and pin. The open end is for your top link. Put the bolt through the other hole with your side braces on each side . The bolt needs to be lose so things can move . The bolt will need a lock but or double nut.
Good Luck Lance

Your description is how I used to have it with no problem, then it got bent when my son mowed with it. So I relocated the "U" such that the front is mounted as I pictured it...with all sufficiently loose to swivel freely...and it bent up again. (As the pics show, the front 3-pt frame can lean forward OR aft...and the "U" can swivel UP or DOWN... but the support arms got bent up all over again.

Never had a problem using it as a pull-behind with no top-link behind my little 9N Ford, nor using a 3 pt rigid hook up behind the Kubota. But using the Quick-Hitch... bent supports, whichever way I set that "U".

 

[SidecarFlip]

Hey George...Maybe some 'Zerk' fittings in various places would help....lol

I'll still call them Alemite fittings, you call them what you want to....

 

[GeoHorn]

Hey George...Maybe some 'Zerk' fittings in various places would help....lol

I'll still call them Alemite fittings, you call them what you want to....

LOL, SideFlip! Maybe you got some NOS? LOL

 

[Dave_eng]

The upper link needs to not only go up and down but back!!!

You have assembled the upper link attachment so that it take a tremendous load when you go through a dip.

The upper link needs to be able to swing down and back as you go through a depression or swale otherwise the arms on the shredder are trying to carry the weight of the tractor.

Dave

 

[D2Cat]

Yes, all the supports that connect to the top link have to pivot on the same bolt. Then to top hole is for the top link itself, so the mower can adapt to differences in grades.

 

[Tx Jim]

If center link attaching link is installed according to photo I'll bet attaching a quick hitch to the link will be interesting to witness. I guess one could install link in top part of QH after bottom of QH has been attached to lower pins.

 

[GeoHorn]

Well, Fellas... that's exactly how I USED to have it..when my some came back from mowing and finding the supports bent.

That was when I used the depiction NIW had posted (I think it was NIW) some time back which showed that when using a QH the swivel-link had to be re-set to allow it's rear-end to swivel.

Well...that also clearly does not work.

I think I'll return it to original and simply readjust the QH top-link position to be certain the "U" hangs downward a bit.

 

[Dave_eng]

I looked on the Landpride site and found the following as a suggestion for you as it pertains to Quick Hitches.

Question

When using a QH the clevis will not stay in hook on RCR or FDR units. What's wrong?
Answer

Add option: Floating top link assembly.

Some owners report using a chain for the top connection to avoid any push forces being placed on the implement

Dave

 

[GeoHorn]

That's what the "U" link is supposed to be... a "floating" link.

Didn't work for me.

I've been wondering about using chains instead of the straight-bar supports that keep getting bent. What would be wrong with that?

 

[Dave_eng]

That's what the "U" link is supposed to be... a "floating" link.

Didn't work for me.

I've been wondering about using chains instead of the straight-bar supports that keep getting bent. What would be wrong with that?

Nothing

Dave

 

[KennysNewFarm]

I have a chain that is big enough to go through category one pin in place of top link. This way you have flexibility when going on uneven terrain or through ditches and vallies. Common sense does apply. Turn off the PTO before you make a taco with your tractor. Hope you all have a humorous side!

 

[KennysNewFarm]

I have a chain that is big enough to go through category one pin in place of top link. This way you have flexibility when going on uneven terrain or through ditches and vallies. Common sense does apply. Turn off the PTO before you make a taco with your tractor. Hope you all have a humorous side!


Or you could replace iron on brush hog with chains and use your existing top link to accomplish the same thing.