Battery replacement for 75D26R

[zake1000]

Hi, I have a Kubota L2800 tractor, that has been sitting idle for over a year, and it now has a dead battery. I've changed the fluids and filters, but I am having a tough time locating a battery for it, other than the overpriced "Kubota" battery for around $275. I've called dealers (all about 1 hr away) that tell me contrasting information. One says that Interstate now makes the batteries for Kubota, although they wont tell me the model of the battery, another tells me a Deka battery (that seems to not have enough CCA, going off the maintenance video by Vic at this site).
I did a search for my battery to see what came up and I can't find anything. My battery is a 75D26R (came original with the tractor a few years ago), but doesn't have a manufacturer's name on it.
I went to advance Autoparts and they said I could stick with a 75 class battery but that the "R" meant reversed polarity or something like that. I don't want to cause electrical damage to my tractor by just taking someone's word.
A search for Kubota L2800 battery yielded a MTP-24 from interstate, but I can't find any info to backup that this would fit my tractor or would work.
I don't know much about batteries, at this point I don't really care the brand as long as it has a 3 yr warranty or better.
Can someone give me a model number/brand of a battery that would replace my 75D26R? I just want to get it up and running... work is getting backed up.

Thank you

 

[Daren Todd]

All the r stands for is the positive and negative locations are reversed, there is no reversed polarity what I did was just measured the area for my battery box, length width and height and then went to the auto parts store and started measuring till I find the biggest battery that would fit the more cranking amps the better


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[Daren Todd]

You can always spin a battery around so the positive and negative cables will reach. Just make sure that there is enough room so the battery terminals don't come in contact with any thing that would short it out.

 

[Tooljunkie]

75/26 represents two batteries, 75 is a side post
And 26 is a top post.very common type of battery
There is a national battery group listing

Do a search for BCI - battery council international
Should help narrow down a battery to suit
Your needs.
When i need a battery, i go to my nearest
Auto parts store and they have something that
Will work.

 

[Stubbyie]

First, congratulations on taking care of your machine and being interested enough to ask questions on this Forum.

Changing out a battery is a common process we all do and something anyone can accomplish with just a very few handtools.

You may have a problem removing the terminals from your old battery. You may have to pry them up with a screwdriver but don't bust the old battery or you may spill a little acid. If you do, just wash it off with water and baking soda. You can get a cute little battery terminal lifter at parts houses or Harbor Freight. Works great. Price ranges from couple bucks to $15.

Owners can pay as much or as little as they want for a battery. All vehicle batteries fall within common 'group sizes'. There's nothing magic about Kubota or Interstate or any other brand battery: they're all made by two or three manufacturers in the US.

Measure your existing battery and draw a picture of how the (+) and (-) terminals are located and go to your local parts house or box store and start measuring. I tend to forget, but now a picture may be easier than drawing a sketch.

If you find one the correct physical size but the terminals are on the wrong sides, just turn the battery around when you install it. The only problem you might encounter is the length of the battery cables if you do this. Just pay attention and don't let the (+) terminal touch any other part of the machine.

Within the sizes you find will fit, get the battery with the largest Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) you can find.

When installing the new battery, first take the (-) or black cable loose from the chassis or frame and clean it and the area around it to shiny bright. Coat with a conductive thread sealant on the bolt, like Kopr-Kote (little tube at NAPA and other parts houses for $4 or so----looks like shiny copper toothpaste).

Do the same for the (+) cable. Clean the battery tray with running water from a hose.

When installing new, put the (+) cable to the battery first, then the (-) terminal.

Make a thick paste of cooking-type baking soda and water (mix it like peanut butter) and glop it onto both battery terminals. Don't get it INTO the battery, just onto the terminals on top. The baking soda paste will stop corrosion and doesn't make a mess like using grease would. If you see the dried paste crack or fall off, just do it again. Once a year or so just wash it all off with a hose and do it again.

Personally, I use WM batteries because they're easy to get and relatively cheap. Consumer's Report likes them too. Some brands are simply overpriced.

Consider also using a battery maintainer especially during the winter. We use one on every battery on every piece of rolling stock. Makes the battery last longer. Schumacher makes a good one---stay away from Harbor Freight.

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.

 

[zake1000]

Hi,
Thank you all for the helpful info, learned a lot from this experience. I also was able to track down (told by two Kubota dealers) that the Kubota "branded" batteries are made by Interstate, and that it was a group 24. I ended up getting an Interstate MT-24 (has way more CCA than the Kubota brand batteries), could not get teh MTP-24 because it was 3/4" too long, so settled for the MT-24. I will be trying to resurrect my tractor this weekend.
Quick question on the battery maintainer (Schumacher). i have a trickle charger (2V), but it says to not overcharge so I would imagine that I can't keep it plugged in. I went to the site, and there are a few that say maintainer, but with different V. Is there a specific model that works better than others? Also, i would imagine that I can take the battery out of the tractor and bring it in (and plug it in to the maintainer) while it's in the house?
Again, thank you all.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would imagine that I can take the battery out of the tractor and bring it in (and plug it in to the maintainer) while it's in the house?

THAT IS A BIG NO!

Batteries put off a hydrogen gas when they charge and it is explosive! They also put off a small amount of sulfuric acid, and that's not good for anything.
Keep it in the tractor and run an extension cord to it if need be.

 

[dfh1977]

Battery tender uses a microprocessor to maintain and float charge any battery. Surprising how may batteries I go thru with grass tractors having dead batteries over winter and it can most of the time resurrect back from dead as long as a reasonable charge exists. Worse case but nice to know it exists is a solar charger to maintain a float charge at least. Rather pay $60+ for it and have piece of mind than $20 for unplug after an hour or it melts or blows up battery.

 

[dfh1977]

Battery tender uses a microprocessor to maintain and float charge any battery. Surprising how may batteries I go thru with grass tractors having dead batteries over winter and it can most of the time resurrect back from dead as long as a reasonable charge exists. Worse case but nice to know it exists is a solar charger to maintain a float charge at least. Rather pay $60+ for it and have piece of mind than $20 for unplug after an hour or it melts or blows up battery.

where I work at, we use 48V batteries with lifting equipment, fork lifts and counterbalances. we use to change batteries out as needed, but now all equipment is plugged in to recharge. all stations have ventilation systems to maintain and control hydrogen and oxygen that leaks out during charging. if not controlled , fires happen if batteries do not leak or explode.

 

[Tooljunkie]

You made reference to your charger being 2v. 2 a-or amps
Is what we are looking for. 12 volt 2 amp automatic would be the ideal setup for maintaining your battery. I prefer an auto type charger over anything as it prevents boiling battery out and destroying it.

A slow or trickle charge is the best way to bring up a battery, will give it a better charge and is less harmful to your battery giving it longer lifespan.

 

[skeets]

Well battery tenders are the cats azz if I do say so.. You can pick them up a sears or parts stores for about 20 to 40 bucks,, Now you want to make sure they are not trickle chargers because they will continue to charge even after the battery has reached its full charge,, and will over charge it causeing bulging cases and a lot of internal oxidation. I use one on my Bouta when it sits for any period of time, never had a problem, I also use on one the HD with sits unfortunately more than its run, and just replaced the OEM battery last year, oh and that battery was 11 years old. So you have gotten a ton of good useful info,, Go for it and let us know how it all turned out,, oh and like wolf said never never never charge it in the house, always some place with good ventilation

 

[zake1000]

Great, thank you all again for the helpful info. I will purchase a battery maintainer and run an extension cord to the tractor over the winter months when it doesn't get much use.
The last trickle charge I attempted was plugged in outside of the garage, I had read something about harmful vapors, but wasn't sure, now I know for sure.
With the maintainer, is there a chance of any damage to the battery and/or tractor? I would imagine that the maintainer can sit under the hood with the battery? Do I need to disconnect the tractor cables from the battery before hooking the maintainer (I would imagine the instructions would come with it, but just figured I'd ask, better safe than sorry).
Thank you

 

[Stubbyie]

First, stay away from Harbor Freight float-type battery tenders or maintainers. Had one fail to 'full on' and boiled the battery dry before I caught it.

You're looking for a maintainer that supplies something like a half (0.5) amp and usually has a couple or three LEDs that indicate it's working and / or charging.

I like Schumacher and have ten or so around the place on every piece of powered equipment and keep them all plugged in all the time. Makes a huge difference on battery life. Tractors, mowers, trucks, gensets, everything with a battery.

Mine are typically mounted permanently on the machine with its pigtail positioned for easy access. Just plug it in and forget about it. I use a long extension cord (can be relatively light weight wire, like 16-ga zip cord due to low current draw) and loop it around steering wheel (mirror, door handle) as reminder to unplug before driving off.

Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.