Please see attachment. When you say seal is it the gasket, #22 on the parts diagram ?. So you know that on the oil stick it's running all the way up it. I had just changed the motor oil before the hydraulic issue. It doesn't smell or feel like hydraulic oil on the dip stick. Also the coolant level is good with no trace of any oils if that matters. When i was trying to hook the loader up and noticed the oil blowing out of breather the engine was reving up and down. Really hope your right because it didn't blow oil before. Thanks Wolfman
B8200 Hydraulic Problems
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Something got scrambled with your attachment, I can't read it.
Here is the seal that I'm talking about, part#13.
If it's overfull on motor oil drain it down till it's not overfull then run it again, if it get's overfull again then it's the seal on the pump.
Here is the seal that I'm talking about, part#13.
If it's overfull on motor oil drain it down till it's not overfull then run it again, if it get's overfull again then it's the seal on the pump.
Gottcha, checked with someone here local and he said the same #13. I think i'm going to pull the pump and check out all the seals and replace. But i am going to drain the oil and refill as you said. Thanks Man
Wolfman, i ordered all the seals. What made me notice the oil yesterday was the idling. It was reveing up and down. i backed back into the garage today so i can work on it and it idle fine and wasn't blowing oil out the breather tube but once it warmed up it did start spitting again and the idling started reveing up and down again. Still think it's the seal. I'm just going to drain motor oil and install new oil and filter. Would the idling like it was because hydraulic oil being in the engine oil? Just want to cover all bases.
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If your engine is overfilled to the point its at the bottom of the pistons it could definitely affect the idle because of all the rotating parts hitting against the oil and oil that makes it into the combustion chamber is burning and making power.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
What he said.
And it would effect the governor too, as it is mechanical and it is in the oil too.
And it would effect the governor too, as it is mechanical and it is in the oil too.
Thanks Bandaidmd & Wolfman. I'm still going to change seals on pump and motor oil after. Another exercise but if this works it's worth it.
Hi guys, got started again since holidays are over. Drained out excess oil. Runs better. Didn't just change one seal on pump i just tore it apart and changed all of them. They didn't look like they were bad but since tore apart i changed them anyway. Also took the directional valve off on the hydraulic block and cleaned the hell out of it. so today i put the loader on and nothing, then i adjusted the valve slowly and BAM the loader works great. I'm HAPPY as a pig in mud. Can't thank you enough for sticking with me on this tractor. It looks like hell but i'm in to things that function. Next step is electrical for temp, fuel gauge, lights etc. Ordered a owners manual and a Service manual for it. However i still do need your help on something. When it's warmed up and i'm idling at 1000 - 1800 rpm it's fine but when i have it at 2200 it runs for a few seconds then dogs down and then revs back up and down. what's this all about and why won't it run consistently at full throttle?. Again thank you so much for your advise and anything i learn from you and help others if you don't get to them first.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Go to Kubotabooks.com/ Tractor parts manuals and download the parts manual too.
The RPM's changing at high RPM's would probably be a fuel or Air delivery problem. Could be as simple as a plugged vent on the fuel tank cap, clogged air filter, to as complicated at a failing injection pump.
I would start at the fuel cap and go threw every piece of the fuel system, and check/replace the air filter.
Clean the vent on the cap, check the fuel lines (soft or cracked lines are bad too), pull the filter clean bowl and replace filter, check fuel flow in and out of the filter (pull the line off that goes to the lift pump), then pull the line from the lift pump to the injection pump, it should pulse and move a small amount of fuel while cranking, then pull the injector lines off the top of the injector pump and you again should get fuel to pulse while cranking, last pull the injectors disassemble and clean.
NOTE: You will need to bled air out of the fuel system as you go, so when you pull parts it will take a little cranking to purge the air out of the lines and parts
The RPM's changing at high RPM's would probably be a fuel or Air delivery problem. Could be as simple as a plugged vent on the fuel tank cap, clogged air filter, to as complicated at a failing injection pump.
I would start at the fuel cap and go threw every piece of the fuel system, and check/replace the air filter.
Clean the vent on the cap, check the fuel lines (soft or cracked lines are bad too), pull the filter clean bowl and replace filter, check fuel flow in and out of the filter (pull the line off that goes to the lift pump), then pull the line from the lift pump to the injection pump, it should pulse and move a small amount of fuel while cranking, then pull the injector lines off the top of the injector pump and you again should get fuel to pulse while cranking, last pull the injectors disassemble and clean.
NOTE: You will need to bled air out of the fuel system as you go, so when you pull parts it will take a little cranking to purge the air out of the lines and parts