B7500 left front axle problem

GeoHorn

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If I’m seeing what I believe I’m seeing….that “repair” …. would be better performed on concrete somewhere.

It looks as if it’s going to need a left-hand b-gear case. It has split the casting.

To do this “in the field” will require a thick piece of ply-wood to put beneath the front axle for a “floor’….. for a floor-jack to lift the center/pivot area of the front axle…so you can unbolt the fractured b-gear case…. Youll also need large needle-nose pliers to remove large C-clips/snap-rings… a ball-peen hammer to drive in the new seal (not pictured yet)…. and about 6 qts of 80/90 gear oil….. and a bucket to first drain the opposite (rh) case of original oil. A roll of paper towels and a six-pack will also come in handy.


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GeoHorn

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Here’s the seals…and a few handy-tips from online at Messicks:

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Dammeitz010

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B7500
Mar 29, 2024
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If I’m seeing what I believe I’m seeing….that “repair” …. would be better performed on concrete somewhere.

It looks as if it’s going to need a left-hand b-gear case. It has split the casting.

To do this “in the field” will require a thick piece of ply-wood to put beneath the front axle for a “floor’….. for a floor-jack to lift the center/pivot area of the front axle…so you can unbolt the fractured b-gear case…. Youll also need large needle-nose pliers to remove large C-clips/snap-rings… a ball-peen hammer to drive in the new seal (not pictured yet)…. and about 6 qts of 80/90 gear oil….. and a bucket to first drain the opposite (rh) case of original oil. A roll of paper towels and a six-pack will also come in handy.


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Thank you! Unfortunately, this will have to be done in the field, since it won’t move and I have no other equipment to tow it in. I’ve never had to do this type of repair before, is there any “time marks” on the gears I have to worry about?
 

GeoHorn

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No…no “time marks”.….

If you don’t change the toe-in/toe-out at the tie-rod-end you’ll have no wheel alignment problem.

Take some good wood-shoring… a RR tie or two…or some large sheets of heavy plywood…to give you a good, solid working surface.

Is there a loader on that tractor..?? If so, you could use the loader to lift the front end up…. BUT you MUST NOT TRUST anything hydraulic to keep that tractor from falling on you.
 
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Dammeitz010

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No…no “time marks”.….

If you don’t change the toe-in/toe-out at the tie-rod-end you’ll have no wheel alignment problem.

Take some good wood-shoring… a RR tie or two…or some large sheets of heavy plywood…to give you a good, solid working surface.

Is there a loader on that tractor..?? If so, you could use the loader to lift the front end up…. BUT you MUST NOT TRUST anything hydraulic to keep that tractor from falling on you.
I’ve gotta a loader on it, but will have safety jacks too
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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@GeoHorn, did you just assume that he had a NARROW model, or did you ask the OP?
CAUTION: GeoHorn's pictures are all a B7500DTN , So a NARROW model, parts can change between models.


You can move it, just strap up that side of the axle and baby it back to a shop.
You can run these on three wheels.
You've at the very least have broken the bevel gear case, but you'll need to disassemble and check all parts for damage.
 
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GeoHorn

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I didn’t ”assume” anything. I entered B7500DT at Messicks site…and that’s what popped up… and I was just using the illustrations to help the OP realize he has to change the bevel-gear-case. It made sense…because his (the OP) pics are of a model with a bevel gear case…and the DT model doesn’t use that at all, according to Messicks.

I”m certainly not the “expert” you are Wolf… but I HAVE changed bevel-gear-case parts on My tractor ….which looks like the OPs pics.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I didn’t ”assume” anything. I entered B7500DT at Messicks site…and that’s what popped up… and I was just using the illustrations to help the OP realize he has to change the bevel-gear-case. It made sense…because his (the OP) pics are of a model with a bevel gear case…and the DT model doesn’t use that at all, according to Messicks.

I”m certainly not the “expert” you are Wolf… but I HAVE changed bevel-gear-case parts on My tractor ….which looks like the OPs pics.
This is why you've got to be careful, only type in the base number and all options come up.
Because on this version the base DT is only referred to as a D.
Were the DT is the DTN narrow.
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GeoHorn

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Thanks for that “heads up” Wolman.. (But, of course, in THIS case…those part numbers….are exactly the same.…and in either event….my posted illustrations are only mean for…illustrations.
I doubt anyone would use a participants posted illustration to actually Order Parts. at least I Hope Not!)