B7200 HSTE sudden death

[rustythread]

Just got tractor back in service after a long time spent on other issues. Wrestled the mower deck into place, hooked up the lift mechanisms and universal shaft, started it up, lifted the deck, and pulled out of the shop. Put in the clutch, engaged the mid PTO, and everything came to a halt when I let out the clutch. No biggie, thinks I--I'd neglected to up the rpms before de-clutching; done it before, no problems.
But this time the tractor does not start. No whine, grind, or other noise or movement when I turn the starter key. Acts as though the battery is out of the circuit. I'm pretty sure it is not the battery: I keep a battery maintainer hooked up when not using the tractor, and had just started it with no symptoms of deficient charge. Battery cables clean and tight.
I double-checked that everything was in neutral, still no starter action. Glow plugs had worked when I first started it this a.m. but now dash idiot lights and fuel gauge are out.

Co-incidentally, the mower blades will now turn by hand only about 1 1/2 turns before a dead stop ( I was checking underneath to make sure there was no obstruction); in the mower prep and mid-pto repair, I had had no difficulty turning pto shaft, mower belt, or mower splined shaft by hand. Don't know how this could be connected to the no-start problem or not but the timing is suspicious.

Could sure use some help on this; the tractor is sitting out in the open and with the mower deck down it's too hard to push into the shop. {I'm 80 and weigh only 140 lbs.)

 

[TheOldHokie]

Just got tractor back in service after a long time spent on other issues. Wrestled the mower deck into place, hooked up the lift mechanisms and universal shaft, started it up, lifted the deck, and pulled out of the shop. Put in the clutch, engaged the mid PTO, and everything came to a halt when I let out the clutch. No biggie, thinks I--I'd neglected to up the rpms before de-clutching; done it before, no problems.
But this time the tractor does not start. No whine, grind, or other noise or movement when I turn the starter key. Acts as though the battery is out of the circuit. I'm pretty sure it is not the battery: I keep a battery maintainer hooked up when not using the tractor, and had just started it with no symptoms of deficient charge. Battery cables clean and tight.
I double-checked that everything was in neutral, still no starter action. Glow plugs had worked when I first started it this a.m. but now dash idiot lights and fuel gauge are out.

Co-incidentally, the mower blades will now turn by hand only about 1 1/2 turns before a dead stop ( I was checking underneath to make sure there was no obstruction); in the mower prep and mid-pto repair, I had had no difficulty turning pto shaft, mower belt, or mower splined shaft by hand. Don't know how this could be connected to the no-start problem or not but the timing is suspicious.

Could sure use some help on this; the tractor is sitting out in the open and with the mower deck down it's too hard to push into the shop. {I'm 80 and weigh only 140 lbs.)

No lights or gauges says no battery power. The DT has a main fuse that will completely disconnect the battery. If the HST has one I would start there,

Dan

 

[fried1765]

Just got tractor back in service after a long time spent on other issues. Wrestled the mower deck into place, hooked up the lift mechanisms and universal shaft, started it up, lifted the deck, and pulled out of the shop. Put in the clutch, engaged the mid PTO, and everything came to a halt when I let out the clutch. No biggie, thinks I--I'd neglected to up the rpms before de-clutching; done it before, no problems.
But this time the tractor does not start. No whine, grind, or other noise or movement when I turn the starter key. Acts as though the battery is out of the circuit. I'm pretty sure it is not the battery: I keep a battery maintainer hooked up when not using the tractor, and had just started it with no symptoms of deficient charge. Battery cables clean and tight.
I double-checked that everything was in neutral, still no starter action. Glow plugs had worked when I first started it this a.m. but now dash idiot lights and fuel gauge are out.

Co-incidentally, the mower blades will now turn by hand only about 1 1/2 turns before a dead stop ( I was checking underneath to make sure there was no obstruction); in the mower prep and mid-pto repair, I had had no difficulty turning pto shaft, mower belt, or mower splined shaft by hand. Don't know how this could be connected to the no-start problem or not but the timing is suspicious.

Could sure use some help on this; the tractor is sitting out in the open and with the mower deck down it's too hard to push into the shop. {I'm 80 and weigh only 140 lbs.)

I am almost 82, so certainly can appreciate your predicament.
Could you use your L35 (forks?) to lift the mower, and then the L35 to push, or pull the B7200 into your shop, with someone else steering?

 

[rustythread]

I am almost 82, so certainly can appreciate your predicament.
Could you use your L35 (forks?) to lift the mower, and then the L35 to push, or pull the B7200 into your shop, with someone else steering?

Appreciate the suggestion, but my L35 is loaned out and far away.

Re the mower blades not turning--after an hour of standing on my head, trying to grow a third hand, and frequent lapses into the vernacular of the uncouth, I got the universal detached at both the mower and the pto ends. I can now easily turn either shaft by hand. I'm more than usually puzzled--can the universal joint assembly somehow get kinked up enough to bring the mower to a halt? How?
Meantime, I've tarped the tractor and will dig out the instructions for my multimeter tomorrow.

 

[fried1765]

Appreciate the suggestion, but my L35 is loaned out and far away.

Re the mower blades not turning--after an hour of standing on my head, trying to grow a third hand, and frequent lapses into the vernacular of the uncouth, I got the universal detached at both the mower and the pto ends. I can now easily turn either shaft by hand. I'm more than usually puzzled--can the universal joint assembly somehow get kinked up enough to bring the mower to a halt? How?
Meantime, I've tarped the tractor and will dig out the instructions for my multimeter tomorrow.

We are only 2 years apart, but we are apparently cut from similar cloth.
One difference though: I will never loan my L48 TLB,...... unless to one of my sons.

 

[NCL4701]

With the dash lights and fuel gauge dead, agree it sounds like a blown fuse/fusible link/breaker; whatever it has. But for that, it kind of sounds like the PTO is still engaged.

I actually did that a couple days ago. Was running the generator on the PTO, idled it down to shut it off, and shut down without disengaging the PTO. Don’t know why as I “always” disengage the PTO before shutting down the engine. Tried to start it a couple hours later; it was dead as a hammer. Fortunately I recalled the PTO use and checked it immediately. Disengaged PTO and it fired right up.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Just got tractor back in service after a long time spent on other issues. Wrestled the mower deck into place, hooked up the lift mechanisms and universal shaft, started it up, lifted the deck, and pulled out of the shop. Put in the clutch, engaged the mid PTO, and everything came to a halt when I let out the clutch. No biggie, thinks I--I'd neglected to up the rpms before de-clutching; done it before, no problems.
But this time the tractor does not start. No whine, grind, or other noise or movement when I turn the starter key. Acts as though the battery is out of the circuit. I'm pretty sure it is not the battery: I keep a battery maintainer hooked up when not using the tractor, and had just started it with no symptoms of deficient charge. Battery cables clean and tight.
I double-checked that everything was in neutral, still no starter action. Glow plugs had worked when I first started it this a.m. but now dash idiot lights and fuel gauge are out.

Co-incidentally, the mower blades will now turn by hand only about 1 1/2 turns before a dead stop ( I was checking underneath to make sure there was no obstruction); in the mower prep and mid-pto repair, I had had no difficulty turning pto shaft, mower belt, or mower splined shaft by hand. Don't know how this could be connected to the no-start problem or not but the timing is suspicious.

Could sure use some help on this; the tractor is sitting out in the open and with the mower deck down it's too hard to push into the shop. {I'm 80 and weigh only 140 lbs.)

I have had similar issues with the b2650 and it was that my weight was not adequate to keep the seat switch engaged. However I have an HST. My problem is solved by putting a piece of styrofoam under the pad where the switch sensor is locatedbut the different models have different switch sensor locations.

 

[rustythread]

I have had similar issues with the b2650 and it was that my weight was not adequate to keep the seat switch engaged. However I have an HST. My problem is solved by putting a piece of styrofoam under the pad where the switch sensor is locatedbut the different models have different switch sensor locations.

I may have solved the sudden shutdown and the non-turning blade questions. Examining the components of the universal joint, I sawthat the end of one of the 5/16" bolts I had used for connecting pind had a slight bend. Bolt was too long by about 1/8", just long enough to hang up and stop the pto and engine.

Now I can get back to the no-start problem. There isn't a seat safety switch. Wherere the other safety switches located?

Does anyone have an electrical test checklist, preferably with indtructions on how to find various items? In adition to being chronologically advantaged, I'm dpwn tp only 5% vision. Little LED headlight is on all the time.

 

[Bill hopkins]

Just got tractor back in service after a long time spent on other issues. Wrestled the mower deck into place, hooked up the lift mechanisms and universal shaft, started it up, lifted the deck, and pulled out of the shop. Put in the clutch, engaged the mid PTO, and everything came to a halt when I let out the clutch. No biggie, thinks I--I'd neglected to up the rpms before de-clutching; done it before, no problems.
But this time the tractor does not start. No whine, grind, or other noise or movement when I turn the starter key. Acts as though the battery is out of the circuit. I'm pretty sure it is not the battery: I keep a battery maintainer hooked up when not using the tractor, and had just started it with no symptoms of deficient charge. Battery cables clean and tight.
I double-checked that everything was in neutral, still no starter action. Glow plugs had worked when I first started it this a.m. but now dash idiot lights and fuel gauge are out.

Co-incidentally, the mower blades will now turn by hand only about 1 1/2 turns before a dead stop ( I was checking underneath to make sure there was no obstruction); in the mower prep and mid-pto repair, I had had no difficulty turning pto shaft, mower belt, or mower splined shaft by hand. Don't know how this could be connected to the no-start problem or not but the timing is suspicious.

Could sure use some help on this; the tractor is sitting out in the open and with the mower deck down it's too hard to push into the shop. {I'm 80 and weigh only 140 lbs.)

You may want to ck the neu.safety switch and see if it's out of adjustment and be sure you starter wire is connected, mine on a 7100 is not in the harness, it stands alone..

 

[rustythread]

Meter check on battery showed `3.9 VDC.

Sandpapered battery leads, and Bingo! it starts.

So I'm mowing along in 10-12" grass, low ground speed and high blade speed, just as happy as if I had good sense, and the steam starts boiling out of the hood. The neck of the radiator, where the cap attaches, has broken off. so, now radiator repair/install questions:

1.This is a metal (copper) neck, soldered onto the radiator body ; I will see if I can findd a local raiator shop. Not looking forward to disassembly, bet it's a learning experience.
2. If a new radiator is required are there any trustworthy non-OEM, or do I need to pay for the Kubota dealer's kid's next semester at Harvard?
3. What additional hoses, etc, do I need to replace while I'm in there?

My wife has taken to calling my exercise program of writhing on the shop floor under this tractor "Kubota yoga."

 

[Nicksacco]

My wife has taken to calling my exercise program of writhing on the shop floor under this tractor "Kubota yoga."

I feel it. I know exactly how that feels - especially the next day!

Regarding the radiator, I was able to find one on ebay to keep from paying someone else's tuition.
If you go that route, you need to be sure of the dimensions and mounting design/shroud/hose ports and sizes. You may have to do some customization. Not impossible. You can also check Wengers or Weavers.

Please pass the Advil

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[rustythread]

Wound up trying to solder the joint myself--not much to lose, since I'll take it to the shop if my repair fails. Last time I used acid flux or soldered anything other than wires was in 8th grade shop. I'll lay out what I did so the gurus here can tell me what went wrong if it fails again.
Gobs and slathers of solder around the joint, showing a number of voids with oxidaton and flaking strands where the most recent failure was. Scraped off all with my knife blade, then sanded to bare metal and degreased. Brushed light coat of acid flux on both surfaces.
Had my heat gun strung up on the chain hoist to preheat the top of the radiator, and covered all surrounding fittings, hoses, and assemblies with soggy towels in to reduce chances of setting unintentional fires (NOTE: SWMBO will not be best pleased if you take towels from the linen closet. DAMHIKT).
Set the neck on and preheated area with heat gun on high for several minutes. Spit-sizlin' temp test. Shut off heat gun and continued heat with propane torch. Keeping heat on metal, fed the tip of the roll of 50-50 solder into the crevice between the two parts. solder melted immediately as applied. I'll try the twist-off test tomorrow a.m.
Film at eleven.