B7200 hst no crank

[Sizzlerb]

Hi everybody,

I’ve got an old B7200 hst which, although doesnt get much work, usually works just fine. I decided to give it some new oil and change the filters. it was running fine before I started my service routine as I had warmed the engine up to change the oil. I was about to start it up again after doing the work and although it cranked over, I had the engine stop out so when I put that back and went to start it again…. It was dead with no crank. I’ve checked the clutch safety switch and I think it’s good ( I’m no electrical expert) and I‘m a bit stumped as to what else to check. The oil filter is near a fusible link ( as pictured) and I wondered if I might have knocked when doing up the oil filter, but don’t know how to check it. Battery is good and lights come up on the Instrument panel.
has anyone got any ideas of where else to look and test as it’s in a field and there aren’t any mobile mechanics who know anything about kubotas here!

many thanks

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'm guessing here as I don't know the machine but is there a PTO lever that may have moved ?

since lights come on the dash, that fuse is good.
should get the wiring diagram for it ( in WSM....) as checking electrical can be a nightmare without the diagram

 

[Sizzlerb]

Thanks for that suggestion. I have checked all the levers ( as I have felt foolishly caught out by that in the past) but everything seems as it should be and it was cranking only moments before when I had the engine stop out.

 

[N3BP]

There are no PTO safety switches on a B7200, only one for the clutch. The electronics are very simple on this machine. Check the condition of your positive and negative battery cables and make sure they are tight. Also check the condition of the starter solenoid 12V trigger to make sure that is good and tight.

Another issue, although less common is your ignition switch failed. I had to replace one on my B7200 a few years ago. You can usually tell if the switch is bad by seeing of the glow indicator lights up, and you have working headlights when you turn it to the "on" position.

 

[Sizzlerb]

There are no PTO safety switches on a B7200, only one for the clutch. The electronics are very simple on this machine. Check the condition of your positive and negative battery cables and make sure they are tight. Also check the condition of the starter solenoid 12V trigger to make sure that is good and tight.

Another issue, although less common is your ignition switch failed. I had to replace one on my B7200 a few years ago. You can usually tell if the switch is bad by seeing of the glow indicator lights up, and you have working headlights when you turn it to the "on" position.

I have just been out and buffed and tightened all the battery cables. The battery is on charge ( just to make sure). I did replace the ignition switch last year as it was a bit flakey but checking that too ( no working headlights and glow indicator never has shown up as glowing ( don’t know why). Thanks for suggestions. I’ll let you know if I make progress

 

[GreensvilleJay]

gee NO safety switches . man must have come over on the Mayflower ! Thought everything had 4-5 'safety' switches.....

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I downloaded the WSM from Kubotabooks.com and pretty sure that is a fusible link. It has to be fine as you have some lights on the dash.....

According to the wiring diagram power goes from main switch to safety switch to starter solenoid. pretty darn simple....

1st step... goto www.kubotabooks.caom and download the WSM b6200-7200.....
2 nd get test light or DVM and ring out the power....

 

[Russell King]

How long did you crank it with the stop lever out? You may have drained the battery down or overheated the starter.

You can check the starter operation by placing the tractor in neutral so it doesn’t move. Then connect the battery positive to the spade terminal on the starter. That spade should have a black wire with white stripe on it. Engine should crank if both the starter and battery are good. Tractor could start so be careful, and have stop knob in the off position if you absolutely don’t want it to run.

You can also remove the battery and the starter and have them tested at an auto parts store.

Report back what happened during the tests.

But if it was me I would also replace the battery cables if they are older and not known to be good and well connected.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi everybody,

I’ve got an old B7200 hst which, although doesnt get much work, usually works just fine. I decided to give it some new oil and change the filters. it was running fine before I started my service routine as I had warmed the engine up to change the oil. I was about to start it up again after doing the work and although it cranked over, I had the engine stop out so when I put that back and went to start it again…. It was dead with no crank. I’ve checked the clutch safety switch and I think it’s good ( I’m no electrical expert) and I‘m a bit stumped as to what else to check. The oil filter is near a fusible link ( as pictured) and I wondered if I might have knocked when doing up the oil filter, but don’t know how to check it. Battery is good and lights come up on the Instrument panel.
has anyone got any ideas of where else to look and test as it’s in a field and there aren’t any mobile mechanics who know anything about kubotas here!

many thanks

Mo need to work in the field. You can start that tractor by Jumpering the batterry to the starter and it will run without any electronics.

Dan

 

[Sizzlerb]

How long did you crank it with the stop lever out? You may have drained the battery down or overheated the starter.

You can check the starter operation by placing the tractor in neutral so it doesn’t move. Then connect the battery positive to the spade terminal on the starter. That spade should have a black wire with white stripe on it. Engine should crank if both the starter and battery are good. Tractor could start so be careful, and have stop knob in the off position if you absolutely don’t want it to run.

You can also remove the battery and the starter and have them tested at an auto parts store.

Report back what happened during the tests.

But if it was me I would also replace the battery cables if they are older and not known to be good and well connected.

Thank you for this. Charging the battery ( which is quite new ) and will try the ‘simply bypass everything’ approach.

one question: I didn’t fill up the fuel bowl when I replaced the filter and wondered if that might cause crank issues. I don’t see any electrics connected to the fuel system ( other than the gauge ) so I can see how it would stop it cranking.

 

[Sizzlerb]

Mo need to work in the field. You can start that tractor by Jumpering the batterry to the starter and it will run without any electronics.

Dan

Will be trying that soon

 

[Sizzlerb]

How long did you crank it with the stop lever out? You may have drained the battery down or overheated the starter.

You can check the starter operation by placing the tractor in neutral so it doesn’t move. Then connect the battery positive to the spade terminal on the starter. That spade should have a black wire with white stripe on it. Engine should crank if both the starter and battery are good. Tractor could start so be careful, and have stop knob in the off position if you absolutely don’t want it to run.

You can also remove the battery and the starter and have them tested at an auto parts store.

Report back what happened during the tests.

But if it was me I would also replace the battery cables if they are older and not known to be good and well connected.

I’ve polished up the ground connection and checked and tightens the battery clamps, all look good now. Waiting for battery to be fully charged.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I’ve polished up the ground connection and checked and tightens the battery clamps, all look good now. Waiting for battery to be fully charged.

If you have a good battery and the ground and positive connections from battery to starter are good it will crank when you jumper the starter.

Dan

 

[Sizzlerb]

Well, thank you ALL so much your helpful guidance and advice - ITS WORKING! I think it was a combination of things: battery not sufficienntly charged AND poor grounding/ cables. It turns out that the alternator has a slightly dodgy connection ( hence the poor battery charge) but now it’s all working as normal, so I can cut my grass again. Once again, thanks all….. what a great thing orangetractortalks is!
sizz

 

[Russell King]

I am a little surprised that it is running if you did change the fuel filter and you didn’t get the air out of the filter. Perhaps your tractor has a way to let the filter fill with fuel and get the air out of the filter, or it may be that sitting overnight allows the filter to fill up with fuel. I have never tried that but on my tractor (L185F) there is an air release valve on the injection pump that is opened to let the air out of the filter and the fuel lines between the tank and pump.

But good for you it is up and going again.

 

[Sizzlerb]

I am a little surprised that it is running if you did change the fuel filter and you didn’t get the air out of the filter. Perhaps your tractor has a way to let the filter fill with fuel and get the air out of the filter, or it may be that sitting overnight allows the filter to fill up with fuel. I have never tried that but on my tractor (L185F) there is an air release valve on the injection pump that is opened to let the air out of the filter and the fuel lines between the tank and pump.

But good for you it is up and going again.

I have filled the fuel bowl in the past but it was very messy as the filter needs to be squashed a bit to get it in, and I have left it empty. Both seem to work! The fuel filter is OEM and is the correct part but it does seem to need its fins kinked a bit to get in the fuel bowl. I have always thought it odd but it’s been like that for the 10 years I’ve owned the tractor.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have filled the fuel bowl in the past but it was very messy as the filter needs to be squashed a bit to get it in, and I have left it empty. Both seem to work! The fuel filter is OEM and is the correct part but it does seem to need its fins kinked a bit to get in the fuel bowl. I have always thought it odd but it’s been like that for the 10 years I’ve owned the tractor.

It should not wrinkle or kink a new filter when installing it.
Look up inside the housing, it's very common for an old filter end to get stuck up in there (yellow), or someone has doubled up the small O-ring (green).

 

[Sizzlerb]

That makes slot of sense. Thanks again I’ll check it out!