B7200 Help needed

Code54

New member

Equipment
Kubota MX5100
Jan 14, 2012
12
0
0
Hurricane, WV
After owning the B7200 for a week or so I have a few more questions I hope someone can help with.

I just started working on the ROPS. All the ones I have seen on the net are 1 piece designs, the one I got (new but never mounted, still in the factory shipping container) is a two part unit. It also came with a BUNCH of brackets and bolts. Some of the brackets and bolts I don't believe belong to the unit but I am honestly not too sure. Anyway I am looking for any thoughts/pictures/directions on how this all goes together. I attached a few photos to help a bit. Does anyone have the 2 piece ROPS?

My second question is an odd one. I am thinking about making my 4x2 tractor into a 4x4 tractor. I found the axle/drive shaft parts for a decent price, now my question is about what else is needed for the conversion. Also how does the front axle attach to the transmission. I am guessing the 4x4 and the 4x2 are the same tractor minus the front axle assembly. I am waiting for my workshop manual to arrive so I can get more detail but may need to move on the parts sooner than later. I got the tractor for a very good deal and the motor appears excellent and all the other main components are in good shape so I am at least kicking this idea around. The wife would love this one to be a 4x4 so.......

Third question - Brakes... Mine are not working too hot, I am guessing I need new pads. How bad are the brakes to replace? Is there an "easy" way to check them without putting the entire rear apart to get to them?

Has anyone ever loaded the front tires for a little extra weight on these small tractors? I notice it does not seem recommended and was wondering why? Seems lie there wouldnt be any more stress to the front end than what a few suitcase weights would add?

Thanks for the help
 

Breeze

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Equipment
L3700, Box Grader, 60" Bush Hog, Rear Grader Blade, York Rake, Boom Pole.
Dec 24, 2010
149
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Virgin Islands
Two piece ROPS? Bottom half is fixed, bolted to the tractor frame and the top half is separate in order to lower overall height when necessary. Assume that there are threaded holes or through holes in place to receive the ROPS frame. It didn't come with any mounting instructions?

Brakes - Wait on the Workshop Manual

Loading front tires - Generally not recommended

Convert 2WD to 4WD - Ambitious, probably expensive and you're talking a tractor produced between 1983 and 1990 for what that's worth. The front axle would be the least of your issues. The need to provide a drive line to the front end, probably more difficult depending on configuration.

Good luck with your projects.
 

Eric McCarthy

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Kubota B6100E
Dec 21, 2009
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Richmond Va
The brakes more then likely are automotive style shoes and are easy to replace if you've ever done them on a old car or truck with drum style brakes. I've got a B6100 and mine are drum so I think yours should be the same as well.

As fas as making a 4x2 into a 4x4 I do believe its been asked on here before and everyone kinda kicked around the idea its more in depth, labour intensive and expensive then its really worth. If you absolutely have to have a 4x4 sell yours and go by one that's already 4 wheel drive.

And as far as loading the front tires that's be a big topic and debate here in the past and from what I remember from previous post's, I have to agree with Breeze it's not really recommended. If a little more weight is what you need to balance out a load from the 3pth the add small amounts to the front end with the suit case weights to make it safer.
 

Code54

New member

Equipment
Kubota MX5100
Jan 14, 2012
12
0
0
Hurricane, WV
Sorry, should have been more clear, the ROPS is vertically a 2 piece unit. Split down the center, not a folding style. I got it used (sort of, never put on a machine) so I didn't get any instructions. Its weird, looks like it should get welded together or something......

As for loading the fronts, why is that? I don't mean that as I am doubting you I am just trying to get an understanding of why it is bad. Seems putting 120lbs of suitcase weights above the wheels would be just as bad as 50lbs in them but I maybe totally wrong and want to learn why?
Thank!
 

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Breeze

New member

Equipment
L3700, Box Grader, 60" Bush Hog, Rear Grader Blade, York Rake, Boom Pole.
Dec 24, 2010
149
0
0
Virgin Islands
The ROPS was probably done that way to make it easier to ship. It does look like you're going to have to weld the joint at the top. I wouldn't trust a butt joint but would place a short sleeve inside the tubes to make it up. The strength of the unit is also going to depend heavily on how the lower frame is mounted. If this unit isn't made for your particular tractor, this could be a problem. Best of luck there.

Loading fronts, or not, ends up like discussions of Hydro Oil, Motor Oil, etc. There is I guess no right or wrong answer, do what feels good to you.

I will say however that most all of the tractive force is applied at the rears anyway so adding weight at the front is usually employed only when the 3pt is lifting heavy loads to keep the front end on the ground, not for better traction. With a FEL, the rears are loaded for the same reason, to keep them on the ground with a full bucket. Given their size, loaded rears also make the tractor more stable by lowering the center of gravity. The fronts are like bicycle tires, by comparison. I suppose that if one were using a tractor to pull ground engaging equipment such as a plow and had problems with traction, adding weight at the front would help but only you know what you are trying to accomplish.

I forgot you were 2WD so ALL of the tractive force is applied by the rears. Other comments still relevant.
 
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kubotasam

Well-known member

Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Apr 26, 2010
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63
Alfred Maine
It looks like the ROPS you have is the same one I have on a B7100. It bolts together at the top using the piece just to the right of your spray can. It goes inside the tubes. You do not need to weld it. I added some pictures to show how it goes on the tractor. It is hard to show how it bolts on because the backhoe is in the way of a clear picture.
As far a weighting the front tires/wheels, on the same tractor I have 50 lb wheel weights and windshield washer fluid in the front tires. At my old house I had a very steep hill I needed to drive up and down and when I had the backhoe on I did not want the front to get light so I added the weight. The tractor has been this way for 7 or 8 years with no problems. With the weight on the tire/wheel it keeps it off the front axle and the wheel bearings.
 

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Code54

New member

Equipment
Kubota MX5100
Jan 14, 2012
12
0
0
Hurricane, WV
kubotasam - AWESOME, thank you!!!!! That helps a TON, that is how the bracket goes, on the inside. I was thinking the outside, that is a BIG help. Again, thank you for taking the time to take photos, that really makes it easy for me. It definitely appears I have a few extra parts. If I may ask, where did you find your wheel weights? They would be a BIG help. I just built a bumper out of an "I" beam to gain some weight but could still use a bit more and your style of weights would be perfect!

We are running a 2wd B7200 and she is only using it as a "garden" tractor - pulling a little cart when she is landscaping and to cut our lawn when she has the urge. (But to be honest I like this tractor so much I think I am going to be cutting with it fairly often!) I want the weight to help keep the front end on the ground when we are using the rear finish mower and not for traction purposes. I just got a set of chains for the rear and the rears are already loaded so it is pretty decent on traction. We have another 4x4 tractor I use for any ground engaging work and loader work.
 

Code54

New member

Equipment
Kubota MX5100
Jan 14, 2012
12
0
0
Hurricane, WV
Thank you!

I got the ROPS all installed last night. I did learn a few things in case anyone else ever needs to do it.

Put it together and make it 1 piece BEFORE you install it. - if you do it in two parts it is impossible to line it all up

Loosen the top link mounting plate so it can wiggle around a bit to line up the bolt holes.

Use something (rafters/gantry crane) to help keep the ROPS from being able to fall backwards when installing

Make sure you take all the 3pt arms off so you have some extra room to work

There are some extra parts that come with it, it appears they are for different models

Thanks for the link on the weights I really like that idea a lot. I am going to take a few measurements of my front wheels this morning and might just bite the bullet and order a set.