B6000 questions

Nyquil Junkie

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Jan 10, 2014
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Pennsylvania USA
The first of many no doubt.
:D

I'm off this week to buy and haul home a very nice well cared for B6000.
I am unfortunately diesel and tractor stupid.

My first question is...
The rear 3 point hitch is power up. It lifts the roto tiller and the other implements.
How much weight can this thing actually lift, with no damage to the tractor?

I'm gonna be skidding logs out of the woods and I kinda dont want to break the thing. I also have to go find the right attachment to do the skidding (or make one).

Thanks!
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I hope your going to be skidding some really small logs!;)
I don't know the specs for the 3 point but I would bet around 4 to 5 hundred pounds easily, the problem is going to be that the tractor has very little weight of it's own and can easily flip over if lifting too much weight or lifting too high.
 

Dan_R_42

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B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
Dec 1, 2010
447
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Taunton, MA
I hope your going to be skidding some really small logs!;)
I don't know the specs for the 3 point but I would bet around 4 to 5 hundred pounds easily, the problem is going to be that the tractor has very little weight of it's own and can easily flip over if lifting too much weight or lifting too high.
I agree with Wolfman...

Anybody know if Kubota is still running the ROPS program they had in the past ? If Nyquil's new toy does not have one equipped, he may want to invest in one...

http://www.kubota.com/safety/RolloverProtectiveStructures.aspx

I found the link but without a serial # won't know if it is still active.

Nyquil- you may want to check out this link... Also look at the ROP's Buyers Guide tab on this link.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Yes they are still running the program, and it's cheap too!
My tractor is not on the list and is going to run me $400 for my ROPS, still well worth it!
 

mdb6000

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b6000
Oct 11, 2010
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monroe, ct
looking at the tractor you wouldn't believe it, but the capacity is over 600# according to specs, I can verify as well. As far as skidding, I made a temporary dealy once with a tow strap and drawbar on the 3pt and my main problem was keeping the front of the tractor on the ground, even with front wheel weights, so your front end will lift up when lifting "heavy" logs, just something to think about.
 

Dan_R_42

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B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
Dec 1, 2010
447
3
18
Taunton, MA
It says $150 for a rops kit for the b6000.

Looks like a deal to me.
Wow, that is short money. Even if you did not get around to installing it right away, I would have the dealer order it ASAP...

Good Luck with your new rig.
 

cerlawson

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rotiller, box scraper,etc.
Feb 24, 2011
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PORTAGE, WI
Let me tell a true story. A friend of mine was home during Christmas vacation and he kept busy hauling logs out of the woods with a tractor something like the Ford 9N I think. He went back to school with one more log left to go. So his dad went to get the last one. They found him pinned under a tractor that had flipped up over backwards. Dead of course.

Look at the photos posted above posted by Piker. Only one of his photos show pulling from a low (but not the lowest) point. Most show a chain attached from well above the rear axle, pointing in a direction well above the rear axle.

Think of the rear axle as the pivot of a teeter totter. However, instead of just weights on each end of the board, only one board end has a weight, that being the center of gravity weight, located forward of the axle, providing a twist in the direction toward the front. Looking at the axle from the right side that is a clockwise twist.

On the other end of the teeter totter is only a vertical bar with some force holding it back from a location higher than the axle. This is that three point thing shown in the photos. Note that it tends to twist the opposite direction than the center of gravity, counter clockwise. Also, attached to the teeter totter center axle is a powered device wanting to take it towards the center of gravity end, that being the tractor's forward force. It is twisting the tractor body in a counter clockwise direction.

Thus you now have three twisting forces working on this "teeter totter". The center of gravity with clockwise twist and two factors providing counter clockwise twisting. If these counter-clockwise twists exceed the clockwise twists, well, that spell ls trouble.

That explains the lifting of the front as you pull as shown in the photos. Do enough counterclockwise twist in these directions and over she goes to the rear.

You can minimize the dangerous twist by changing the way you hook onto the tractor. You can't change the other stuff other than putting more weight in the center of gravity side. So, with most tractors there is a draw bar that is LOWER than the rear axle. Using the draw bar then this applies a twist in the direction the same as the center of gravity,on the safe side.

In summary, any one hooking up to the tractor as shown in the photos with the chain aimed up over the axle is asking for a risky operation. If you do use the rig that Piker shows in the top separate photo with the chain through the 2" trailer hitch thing, set that three point thing down below the level of the axle. Now I will admit to hauling lots of logs with the three point attachments, I made it a point to keep that hauling point as low as possible.

Just keep in mind these three twists as you haul logs. You can only change one.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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100% agree with cerlawson !
I've had people tell me "oh that won't happen the three point will stop it from going to high and rolling over", they think it's a wheelie bar:rolleyes:, go out and pull up on your three point arms, there is zero resistance and again as it raises it amplifies the fulcrum point to higher and higher, thus causing the tractor to become more and more unstable as it rises up.
It takes seconds for it to go from forward to full turtle on it's shell, I don't know about you but I can't stop 1000+ pounds coming down on my chest!:eek:
 

cerlawson

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rotiller, box scraper,etc.
Feb 24, 2011
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PORTAGE, WI
One more technical item. Even with the hauling point being low as at the drawbar, if you don't let the log move at all and keep power to the rear axle, it will tip up and over. That's because then the counter clockwise twist of the engine and gears going exceeds the resisting twist of the center of gravity. So be prepared to throw in the clutch. The resisting twist of the low connection is not much due to that force lever arm being almost on line with the axle.
 

Piker

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2012 Kubota 2320, 2002 Honda Rubicon
Dec 1, 2010
164
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11
Riverview, NB, Canada
I have 2 cast iron tractor weights attached to my front bumper/hitch & using my 3 point skidding attachment I have never had the front end attempt to lift - not once! Being able to lift a log even slightly (keeping tow point as low as possible), makes a world of difference by keeping the log from digging in. I cut, skidded, chunked up, trucked home (Ranger 4x4 & trailer) & split 10 cord of mostly Maple that winter in a 2 week period. A little common sense goes a long way. I have built a 5' rear blade & gardening implements that attach to my 3 point skidding/trailer hitch attachment - like a sleeve hitch I guess. I also have a Super Split wood splitter & an outlawed Bark Buster cone-type splitter - both work great. I guess I live on the edge in the eyes of the safety police that lurk on these tractor forums.
 

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cerlawson

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rotiller, box scraper,etc.
Feb 24, 2011
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PORTAGE, WI
Piker: No problem with you. You know that you need more clockwise twist to overcome the counter clockwise twists of the tractor power and the load. A front bucket or front weights help. Your hauling with a lift also gives more traction than the drawbar haul.

However, here comes a new comer and they see your pictures with the load being lifted and the effect that has, but may figure it is as safe as possible. Well, giving tips to new comers we have to be careful to explain everything.

I used the word "twist" while maybe I should have used the word "torque" or , as we do in engineering, say "moment". It all is the same, generally expressed in foot-pounds.

I know of one guy with an orange tractor with hydrostatic that wants to stay going forward in cold weather even with no foot on the pedal. I have an older blue tractor with the same problem. Now suppose we were hauling logs and they got stuck behind a stump and we somehow could not hit the reverse foot lever. These tractors would tip up over backwards even with the drawbar load and much quicker with the upper three point load as you picture. No hauling of logs is completely safe. I even wonder about antique tractor pulls. Same question there. A long draw bar does help.
 

Piker

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2012 Kubota 2320, 2002 Honda Rubicon
Dec 1, 2010
164
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Riverview, NB, Canada
Cerlawson: I hear ya. Accidents can happen in a heartbeat, especially if someone is unfamiliar with the equipment. I find my old 1980 B7100 (gear model) to be very predictable, maybe being 4x4 & having the extra weight of the front differential/axel. My 1947 Ford 8N - not so much. 800 lbs. or so on the 3 point fork lift/carry-all I built will bring the front wheels off the ground in a heartbeat. Same for the 6 ft. Ferguson disc I resurrected. I haven't skidded logs with it but my uncle used his every winter for years. I just horse traded for a 36" length of railroad track to incorporate into my front bumper/hitch, to be fabbed up when we move back to the cottage in the Spring. 011.jpg 014a.jpg 007.jpg
 

Rob

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B6000DT / B7100DP /B8200DT/L225/Globe PTO Chipper/Lewis Backhoe/huxley TR66
Nov 22, 2009
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Leafy England....
Have to agree with regards to taking extra care etc when skidding, it only takes a split second to flip over.
I dragged a lot of timber around with our B6000, they are very capable but you need to keep within the lifting capabilties.
Golden rules to newbies is allway keep weight as low as possible on the back end, use plenty of front end counter weight , dont over do it.

Skidding timber is a very common usage for small compacts, i have attached a pic from an official kubota accessories book, shows a B7100 with a recommeded kubota skidding frame, Take note of the recommeded weight to be used with it, a b6000 has a lower capacity lifting rating , just keepthis in mind.;)
(You can clearly see in the pic that the b7100 has front wheel weights and front suitcase weights.)
hope it all goes well.

rob
 

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Rust Addict

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B6000E
Jan 2, 2010
83
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0
Sidney, Maine, USA
Let me say this about that, the B6000 will pull anything until the chained up tires spin with the diff locked up and sometimes those wheels loose traction only because the 3 point hitch is digging in and the front lights are aiming straight up ;l Go easy on the clutch, she crashes down hard on the front end...
When your pulling hard and moving along good and the front ends just starting to float over the ground, steer using the wheel brakes, that's why you got them right, it works.

A log arch will solve the problem of wheel stands, getting stuck on stumps, roots, mud, and overall keep the log nice and pretty for the saw blades, as well as keep the ground much more pleasing to look at, oh and last but certainly not the least, cut way down on the abuse on the little tractor.

If you want to winch the logs, neat link to an overkill winch log arch.
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=49012.0
 

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