B6000 front end disassembly

284 International

New member

Equipment
B6000 with FEL, assorted Yanmar machines
Mar 25, 2011
151
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California, USA
I recently bought a B6000 with front end trouble. I've written up my repair of it on another forum, and mentioned my annoyance in how the purchase went down on this forum, but thought folks here may be interested in the repair itself. It's more or less copied and pasted.

I can't make some of the photographs show up properly. I've tried editing them on my computer and uploading to photobucket, I've tried changing them in photobucket, but some still come out rotated. Sorry. I'm a computer ignoramus apparently.

After discovering the floppy right hub assembly, I didn't want to break anything (any worse) and want it to be serviceable and safe to use or sell. So, I pulled it apart this afternoon, and thought folks may want to see what it looked like.

It's pretty simple, well built and very strong for its size. Here is the outer assembly.







The knob up top with the grease zerk is the kingpin. Pull those 4 bolts off, and the steering arm comes up, bringing the kingpin with it. A dozen or so small bolts hold a dust guard around the knuckle. With those pulled, the dust guard slides back onto the axle and gives you a little more room to work.

The bottom kingpin is held in place by a clip. Two bolts hold the clip in, then the kingpin drops out. The hub then slides out, taking the axleshaft with it:







This is what the tractor end looks like now:







The little round divot at the bottom of the knuckle is a bushing, pressed in from the bottom. I needed to get mine out, and, while I have a reasonable equipped shop, I don't have the right puller to do this. Since I'm dumber than I am rich, I improvised one:







A 7/8 socket on top of the bushing, and whatever giant one I grabbed first to go over the bottom of the bushing on bottom, sandwhiched by a large C-clamp ALMOST worked. By hitting the socket with a hammer and long punch the bushing came out smoothly and easily.

Here are the lower kingpin, and bushing. There is also a bearing that sits on top of the bushing, but I forgot to get a picture of that.







On the right edge of the kingpin, you can see the groove worn into it. It's about .006 or so edged out, and a corresponding but lesser amount on the bushing. When amplified at the top of the knuckle, though, the effect is much greater, as seen in the pictures above.

The new assistant supervisor kept an eye on things.









After taking a break, and while in the shower, I realized that I hadn't solved the issue by that amount of wear on the lower kingpin. I went back out, and confirmed what I thought I remembered:







The top kingpin was floated far beyond where it should be. It would go up and down, just catching, or just releasing from its bushing. After it was set down into the proper place, it looks like this:







I'll still need to get a bearing, and a kingpin and bushing set top and bottom won't hurt, but they're not that bad. The front end is tight now, and feels solid. All that remains is to fill it with lube, service the other fluids on the tractor, then go try it out and see what else I need to repair! :D

For the moment though, I'm quite relieved. The bushings, kingpins and bearings are all available, but exorbitantly expensive (one kingpin is just under $50, for instance) to do top and bottom on both sides.
 
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284 International

New member

Equipment
B6000 with FEL, assorted Yanmar machines
Mar 25, 2011
151
0
0
California, USA
You're welcome, though I don't have any more information than just ripping one apart.

How are the top kingpins supposed to be retained? I don't see anything on either side that would do it, and the parts diagram I have doesn't show anything either. What am I missing?

I ordered the parts; they should be in soon. This little guy will be up and going in time to do some work around the house and garden for spring!

I'll take some pictures as I do the other service items on it, since I haven't found pictures describing it all.
 

fj40dave

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650, LA534, BH77, TPD35, RCF2060, BB1566, RGA1258
Sep 24, 2009
418
255
63
Yelm, WA
I see a couple items in the parts catalog from Messicks called "plate locks"...wonder if they are the retainer pieces?

66591-56653 item# 018 PLATE LOCK 1 (upper)
66591-56660 item# 019 PLATE LOCK 2 (lower)
 

284 International

New member

Equipment
B6000 with FEL, assorted Yanmar machines
Mar 25, 2011
151
0
0
California, USA
Since I'm waiting on some front parts still, I decided to make a little progress in a different way.

A trip to the hardware store yielded a half quart of "Safety Orange" paint, and another half quart of "Bright Dark Blue." A small container of satin black and I was ready with materials.

I spent some time taking off the hood and other components. Then I cleaned them up with my wire brush on an angle grinder, power washed it, blew it dry, then wiped it all down with xylene on paper towels.

For a quick and dirty job done in a couple hours, I think it cleaned it up quite a bit. It's too traffic cone colored, but after a few days, or an hour or so of work, the dust will subdue the color a bit. It looks different, for sure.

I think I'll paint the wheel weights black.

The hood isn't finished, and it's just set on there. The dashboard has had nothing done to it whatsoever, and will be time consuming. However, it's a good excuse to fix the rat's nest of wiring.

I need to clean up some overspray on the tires, and do something different on the foot rests. I tried some spray can undercoating, but it doesn't seem to cure. It's still soft and goopy hours after I applied it. Herculiner or similar material is really expensive though. Does anybody have any ideas?

I need to get the box scraper all fixed up too.

I had forgotten how time consuming body work and paint are. Between having a real job, and stuff to do like buying groceries, it's tough to find enough time to get stuff done on my tractors!:D


Before:



After:
 

284 International

New member

Equipment
B6000 with FEL, assorted Yanmar machines
Mar 25, 2011
151
0
0
California, USA
A search didn't reveal anything with much in the way of directions or procedures for changing the oil on this machine. I'm not an expert, and don't even have a manual, but thought I'd at least show people new to this what they're going to be dealing with.

On the right hand side (as you're sitting on the tractor facing forward), toward the back of the engine, very near the foot brakes, are a pair of plugs.



The one that faces down is the oil drain plug. It unscrews normally, and then the oil drains from it. You can see how tar-like my oil was. Yuck. That's going to get corrected!

After it has finished draining, above it, on the side of the engine, circled in red, is the "filter" or oil screen. It unscrews, too, but out comes a long, cigar-sized screen. Pull it out straight and carefully. It will drip oil all over the place, so have a catch pan out.

The setup on these tractors is very similar to my KTM dirt bike's oil filtering system, except it has a pair of screens, AND two filters!

Once the screen is out, let it drip into your used oil container. I like to pour a few ounces or so, however much is needed, into the filler when the drain plug is out to flush the remaining gunk. It turns out that was a smart move this time: A long glob of viscous, gunky sludge came out. Shortly after the oil came out clear amber colored.

The drain plug has a short extension on it with a magnet, to pick up any ferrous particles floating around. Make sure to clean that off well. I keep a large mouthed screw-top bottle of 6 ounces or so capacity in the shop, with some mineral spirits. Wipe the gunk off, then drop it in there and swirl it around, and it comes out looking like new.

The screen unscrews at the top. Two washers sandwich another magnet to catch any other magnetic particles. With those off, the screen pulls off the bolt. It will drip interminably and make a mess, so just wrap it in a cloth or something, and wipe it down. That should get the majority of the contaminants off. Then, with carburetor cleaner, WD40, or whatever your preferred aerosol solvent is, spray the screen clean. Be really careful handling this thing. You don't want to break or damage it. A new assembly would keep you in disposable paper filters for a long, long time. Here are the disassembled parts:


The bolt has holes in it for oil flow, so blast those clean too, and make sure they're not occluded.

It goes back together like this:


Make sure the O-ring on the screen and crush washer on the drain plug are in good shape (Best practices would call for a replacement crush washer) then button it all back up.

I put in a little over 2 quarts of Rotella 5W-40 fully synthetic oil. It's diesel rated, and is as good as anything else available. It works in my bikes, pickup, and tractors, and is available everywhere and affordably. The specification is for 2.1 quarts, or 2 liters of engine oil.