Has anyone ever made their own exhaust for a 2cyl B6000? My muffler is just about rusted out. Looking for ideas for either dual stacks or just retrofitting another muffler in its place. Please post any ideas. If you have already made one, please post some pictures. Thanks for any help.
B6000 exhaust
- Thread starter KyBota
- Start date
cmorningstar01
Active member
Equipment
B7500HST LA302 FEL 5'Finish Mower B5100E 46" Snow Plow 22 ton splitter
I have had the occasion of running my 2 cylinder B5100 with the muffler off and there is not very much difference in the sound level, I think an upright straight pipe with a few additional inches added and a rain cap would work quite nicely and if my current muffler ever rusted out that would probably be the route I took. I would make it high enough to keep the fumes and soot out of my face, As it satnds now with the exhaust running straight forward the fumes and soot have a tendency to flow back and up in my face when operating the tractor.
Val
Val
Thanks for the info Val. I definitely don't want to be too loud since I have neighbors very close to me. My exhaust turn-down is rusted off so I know all about the soot-in-the-face problem. I had thought about adding a couple of shorty mufflers to the stacks unless it would cause too much back pressure. I don't want to sacrifice power.
cmorningstar01
Active member
Equipment
B7500HST LA302 FEL 5'Finish Mower B5100E 46" Snow Plow 22 ton splitter
The engine displacement is relatively small on these 2 cylinder engines(30-40 cubic inches) and I do not think that it would be very easy to loose power from too much back pressure, The column of exhaust flow would have to be severely restricted for that to happen. Just look at the exhaust outlet size of many of the modern diesel trucks and then consider that these are mostly in the 500-600 cubic inch displacement size and compare those exhaust outlets to your little 35 cubic inch displacement engine and you will see what I mean, If anything the straight pipe I mentioned making may actually scavenge too much exhaust from the engine and require restriction for the proper development of torque , Sometimes backpressure is required to create a torque curve and keep it from going flat.
I’m contemplating my own modification but my concern is that the muffler seems to be positioned to preheat the fuel? (As it rests against the fuel pump)…. How much is that important?
The original horizontal muffler on my Ford 1210 rotted out and exhaust leaked out of the seams. The leaks and the front discharge of the strong exhaust made it really nasty to run sometimes. Running the muffler vertical I usually don't even notice the exhaust smell.
The muffler on the Ford was attached to the cast iron header via a flat steel plate. The plate had what looked like a SCH40 black pipe nipple and 90° to get to the muffler. Pretty sure I made a new 3/8" thick flat plate and used Shc40 and weld fittings to run vertical. Then there's a cherry bomb muffler and a flapper on top. This tractor doesn't see nearly as much use as the Kubota, but the mod was about 6 years ago and no problems. It gets noisy under load, so it sounds like you need a muffler that muffles more:
The muffler on the Ford was attached to the cast iron header via a flat steel plate. The plate had what looked like a SCH40 black pipe nipple and 90° to get to the muffler. Pretty sure I made a new 3/8" thick flat plate and used Shc40 and weld fittings to run vertical. Then there's a cherry bomb muffler and a flapper on top. This tractor doesn't see nearly as much use as the Kubota, but the mod was about 6 years ago and no problems. It gets noisy under load, so it sounds like you need a muffler that muffles more:
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I made a muffler for my 13.5 B&S tractor when the original burned out, does that count? Had some 11 ga sheet, built a box with a baffle in it. Drilled a bunch of holes and that's that. Also serves as front ballast.
Tractor Supply has several available from $29 to $100 that you could probably make work.