B3300SU

mrcarnage2

Member

Equipment
B3300SU
Nov 13, 2017
40
1
8
Pullman, MI, USA
Hello,

I have a B3300SU. I have a 5ft 3 pt snowblower. Sometimes when I have the PTO engaged and I'm sitting still or barely moving I get a clunk/knocking sound, that feels like its right under my seat. It doesn't do this when under a load (full of snow) and it hasn't done it at low RPMs. Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this noise? I've adjusted the top link to make sure there is no binding on the PTO shaftI've checked the fluid level and when the tractor is running on level ground its level is low. when the tractor is warmed up but turned off the level is right at the full mark.

I bought the tractor used from a JD dealer. They supposedly changed all the fluids before I took it home. all filters had the date written on them. While writing the date doesn't guarantee they were actually changed the dealer and service department seem to have a good reputation. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Eric
 

je1279

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LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Dec 6, 2020
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Upstate NY
I can't help you with the clunck but how many hours do you have on it? Also, are the filters grey or white? They come grey from the factory and you can't purchase grey filters from Kubota. As you said, if they are not the factory filters and they have dates / hours written on them, there is no way to know for sure. Is it still under the factory warranty by any chance?
 

Old_Paint

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Hello,

I have a B3300SU. I have a 5ft 3 pt snowblower. Sometimes when I have the PTO engaged and I'm sitting still or barely moving I get a clunk/knocking sound, that feels like its right under my seat. It doesn't do this when under a load (full of snow) and it hasn't done it at low RPMs. Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this noise? I've adjusted the top link to make sure there is no binding on the PTO shaftI've checked the fluid level and when the tractor is running on level ground its level is low. when the tractor is warmed up but turned off the level is right at the full mark.
The last sentence is the first problem I see. The oil level in the transmission should be at the full mark when warm, idling, lift fully up, and all attached hydraulic equipment (FEL) fully purged with cylinders fully extended.

I'm not quite sure how you checked it "running", but if you meant at idle, that was the most correct part of the way to check it. Idle speed versus full throttle shouldn't matter much, other than you may get some foaming at high throttle that affects the level very slightly. The level should nearly always be high when any attached hydraulic cylinders are not fully extended. How much depends on the number and size of the cylinders in whatever attachment you have that uses internal oil. To protect that transmission, you ALWAYS want it at full level for whatever mode you're going to operate it in, especially when running.

Whether or not this will fix your clunking noise is debatable, but whether or not it will prevent you from losing lubrication or hydraulic power internally is not. As far as the clunking noise is concerned, that sounds like it might be gear lash and governor stability under light load. I've never used a snow blower. In Alabama, it would probably be a really good cow patty slinger or fully automatic dirt clod cannon that would rival the nose cannon of an A-10 Warthog, but we simply don't get enough snow to warrant such equipment.

Do you have a hydrostatic transmission or manual (clutched)? Not sure what would be clunking or if ground speed is actually related to anything other than coincidental lash in the PTO and engine speed. The PTO in these little tractors is isolated from the drive line. And I can attest, that is a VERY GOOD thing. If you've ever tried to stop an 8N with a bush hog behind it, you'd agree. Shut the engine off, engage the PTO, disconnect the blower drive shaft, and see how much lash you have in the PTO shaft. I'd almost bet odds that you're just hearing lash caused by inertia. Getting your oil level up where it should be MIGHT help with the noise a little, but lash is lash. I'm not sure if there's any posted numbers for the lash of the PTO shaft, and I'm a new Kubota owner. But I do understand mechanical things. I helped rebuild a Ford 8N when I was 12 years old alongside a Ford Master Mechanic, and learned a lot of things from him.
 
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whitetiger

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when the tractor is running on level ground its level is low. when the tractor is warmed up but turned off the level is right at the full mark.
You can not check the hydraulic oil level with the engine running.
Ask the Deere dealer what hydraulic oil they put in it, hopefully, it is not 303.
 

mrcarnage2

Member

Equipment
B3300SU
Nov 13, 2017
40
1
8
Pullman, MI, USA
I can't help you with the clunck but how many hours do you have on it? Also, are the filters grey or white? They come grey from the factory and you can't purchase grey filters from Kubota. As you said, if they are not the factory filters and they have dates / hours written on them, there is no way to know for sure. Is it still under the factory warranty by any chance?
Hello,

Filters are white. It's a 2009 so no warranty.
 

mrcarnage2

Member

Equipment
B3300SU
Nov 13, 2017
40
1
8
Pullman, MI, USA
The last sentence is the first problem I see. The oil level in the transmission should be at the full mark when warm, idling, lift fully up, and all attached hydraulic equipment (FEL) fully purged with cylinders fully extended.

I'm not quite sure how you checked it "running", but if you meant at idle, that was the most correct part of the way to check it. Idle speed versus full throttle shouldn't matter much, other than you may get some foaming at high throttle that affects the level very slightly. The level should nearly always be high when any attached hydraulic cylinders are not fully extended. How much depends on the number and size of the cylinders in whatever attachment you have that uses internal oil. To protect that transmission, you ALWAYS want it at full level for whatever mode you're going to operate it in, especially when running.

Whether or not this will fix your clunking noise is debatable, but whether or not it will prevent you from losing lubrication or hydraulic power internally is not. As far as the clunking noise is concerned, that sounds like it might be gear lash and governor stability under light load. I've never used a snow blower. In Alabama, it would probably be a really good cow patty slinger or fully automatic dirt clod cannon that would rival the nose cannon of an A-10 Warthog, but we simply don't get enough snow to warrant such equipment.

Do you have a hydrostatic transmission or manual (clutched)? Not sure what would be clunking or if ground speed is actually related to anything other than coincidental lash in the PTO and engine speed. The PTO in these little tractors is isolated from the drive line. And I can attest, that is a VERY GOOD thing. If you've ever tried to stop an 8N with a bush hog behind it, you'd agree. Shut the engine off, engage the PTO, disconnect the blower drive shaft, and see how much lash you have in the PTO shaft. I'd almost bet odds that you're just hearing lash caused by inertia. Getting your oil level up where it should be MIGHT help with the noise a little, but lash is lash. I'm not sure if there's any posted numbers for the lash of the PTO shaft, and I'm a new Kubota owner. But I do understand mechanical things. I helped rebuild a Ford 8N when I was 12 years old alongside a Ford Master Mechanic, and learned a lot of things from him.
Hello,

I have a HS. I understand what you are saying. I've checked the fluid at idle but the bucket was down and in the float position with the PTO disengaged. I've never had and HST before so I was insure if it was different than any other. But someone posted that you can't check it running...so🤷🏻‍♂️. I think I might change both filters and fluid and start fresh. If it doesn't fix it I'll take it in to a dealer near me and get it looked at.
 
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je1279

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LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Dec 6, 2020
723
454
63
Upstate NY
Hello,

I have a HS. I understand what you are saying. I've checked the fluid at idle but the bucket was down and in the float position with the PTO disengaged. I've never had and HST before so I was insure if it was different than any other. But someone posted that you can't check it running...so🤷🏻‍♂️. I think I might change both filters and fluid and start fresh. If it doesn't fix it I'll take it in to a dealer near me and get it looked at.
I would swap fluids and filters like you said first and go from there. Hopefully that fixes it but if not, you've ruled that out as a possible cause. Make sure to use Kubota filters and Super UDT2 for hydraulic fluid.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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That someone you said posted it, is whitetiger, you would be wise to listen to him, as he knows what he's talking about.
And yes you never check hydraulic fluids when it's running!
 
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mrcarnage2

Member

Equipment
B3300SU
Nov 13, 2017
40
1
8
Pullman, MI, USA
Hello,

Update:

So I figured out what was causing the clunking sound. My lift arm stabilizers had to much play in them. When I was backing up, when the snowblower would shift to the right it would put the shaft at a odd angle causing it to bind. Once I tightened up the stabilizers so that both sides were tight but centered I have had no more issues.

I do have a question. I have seen the lift arms that adjust in and out to different lengths. They also seem to have stabilizers that are more rigid than the chain and screw tension ones I have. I do plan on buying a quick attach 3pt. But I would like a setup that is more rigid and doesn't allow a lot of movement left or right once adjusted for the implement. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks.
 

je1279

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Dec 6, 2020
723
454
63
Upstate NY
Glad it was something simple. You can get the telescoping stabilizers to replace your current setup. They are much easier to use in my opinion and have different options if you want to allow some movement or limit movement on the 3 point attachment.

 
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mrcarnage2

Member

Equipment
B3300SU
Nov 13, 2017
40
1
8
Pullman, MI, USA
Glad it was something simple. You can get the telescoping stabilizers to replace your current setup. They are much easier to use in my opinion and have different options if you want to allow some movement or limit movement on the 3 point attachment.

Yes, I did see these. Unfortunately they seem to be only for the L and M series kubotas. I have the B series. I did get a hold of Mark Hodge. He said that he will put me on the list but it will be about mid summer before he can get to them.

He seems to be pretty popular with people that needed these made for their tractors and from everything I've read and seen people are quite happy with his product. I'm looking forward to having them made. Until then I'll just be more vigilant about watching my stabilizers.
 

dirtydeed

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Telescoping stabilizers are now standard with large framed B50 series and LX models (possibly with the B-01 series as well). I understand that you have an SU, but perhaps the new setups would fit your tractor?
 

je1279

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Dec 6, 2020
723
454
63
Upstate NY
I'm guessing the newer ones would fit his machine but I don't see a replacement kit that Kubota offers for them. Purchasing the parts individually may be cost prohibitive (I'm unsure what the Hodge kit costs).
 

je1279

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Equipment
LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Dec 6, 2020
723
454
63
Upstate NY
That seems like I better deal as I saw around $200 for just the four main pieces without any of the attaching bits from a dealership.
 
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