B2650 HSD 50 hour service

tcalvin48

Member

Equipment
B2650HSD, LA534 FEL, BH77 16" bucket,thumb, WG24, BB2560, WC68, RCR1860
Aug 22, 2019
43
4
8
Dresden, Maine
Hello,
My new B2650 HSD is (over) due for its 50 hour service, I have 60 hours on it. My dealer can't come and service it for two more weeks.
What are my options? Should I at least change the oil or do nothing for two weeks? What am I risking if I just keep using it?
Thanks,
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
 

nbryan

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
1,170
712
113
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Change the engine oil if you have the correct oil, and a Kubota engine oil filter. The only other items needed at 50 hrs are to change the transmission (HST) filter and hydraulic oil filter. And grease/lube the machine etc.

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Gene Blister

Member

Equipment
2019 Kubota B2601, FAL LA435, Snow Blower BX2822A, Land Pride rear blade RB1572
Aug 4, 2019
84
20
8
Cocolalla, Idaho
Hi Tom.

I'm a former downeastah (Portland) and a Kubota newbie myself- just did my 50 hour service on Bessie II, my B2601.

I can't speak to your situation, of course, but I found doing my own filter/fluid changes was very useful in getting to know my girl hands-on and greasy! Unless it's required by your warranty or you have a contract for this service with your dealer, consider rolling up your sleeves and tackling this basic job yourself.

First, absolutely get the right tools for the job. I have an Innovant Adjustable 3 Jaw Oil Filter Wrench. The triple jaws adapt from 2 1/8 to 4 1/2 inch diameter filters and, most importantly, drive from the end of the filter, along the axis of rotation. You'll never get a traditional strap filter wrench into the tight spaces under your tractor.

Pair this with a beefy ½ inch drive socket wrench and a 12 inch extension and grabbing all the filters is a breeze. The tool comes with a 3/8 to ½ adapter, too.

The jaws need constant pressure to stay gripped, so get a thick, wide rubber band, like they use on produce, to keep the jaws tight as you ratchet up.

As part of my "learning curve" I changed the factory engine oil for some 10W-30 I had on hand, neglecting to see the note that said For Gasoline Engines. The great guys here on the forum assured me it wasnt the end of the world, but advised to swap it out sooner rather than later. So I got double practice on draining the crankcase and reading labels. Now I use Shell Rotella (sounds like a pasta...)

As far as the hydraulics for the 50 hour, if the transmission juice is clean and amber-brown you can drain it into a totally clean, dedicated pan, set it aside and swap out the transmission and implement "suction" filters, then reinstall the fluid. No skimping or substitutions here. This is the lifeblood of your machine! Use only Kubota SUDT2. It's warranty friendly!

There's a trick of putting the suction hose of a shop vac alongside the transmission fill port and using a partial vacuum to hold the fluid in rather than draining it when changing the filters, but it's more trouble than its worth for me.

Drain and replace the front axles' 80-90 gear oil, too.

I also swapped out the fuel filter. Try to have the fuel tank less than half full or the pressure/weight of the diesel will make it flow out the disconnected hose. I use a K&N41 hose pinch off pliers, but they're a bit large. There are plastic clamps for smaller diameter hoses that will work.

Use the French cooking technique of mise en place: get all tools and materials ready, work organized and area clean and swapping out your fluids and filters should be a downright pleasant learning experience.

Welcome to the Orange Nation!
 
Last edited:

RCW

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
8,456
4,146
113
Chenango County, NY
Tom - I would do as the others said, if you’re able to do so. It will help you learn how your machine works for the future.
My tractor is 6+ years old now, and it’s never been back to the dealer.
While I have a BX, I find it pretty easy to do routine service on. I expect a B to be similar.


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nbryan

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
1,170
712
113
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Others have gone through lots of trouble with shop vacs etc trying to keep hydraulic oil in the machine while changing oil filters. My hydraulic fluid level was full when I changed the HST (transmission) and hydraulic oil filters, and the HST filter hardly lost any oil when I swapped it. But have the new hydraulic oil filter ready at hand, o-ring lubed with fresh oil, as oil leaks out fairly quickly when the old one comes off. Just act fast when spinning off the old, and spinning on the new filter. I think less than a litre spilled into the catch pan before the new filter got tightened. Get a gallon jug of SUDT2 to have on hand for topping up. I only added maybe a quart, like I said.
Same with the fuel filter - it's recommended to have the fuel tank only 1/2 full, but mine was almost full when I changed mine and again very little fuel escaped in the process.
And for some reason a lot of OTT contributors seems to want to change out all the hydraulic oil at 50 or 200 hours, instead of waiting until 400 hours like in the manual. Not sure why. Of course if there's sign of heavy darkening or burning, or copious metal bits in the catch pan or filter, but if that was the case I'd have the machine in for warranty check on those issues. But Kubota Premium UDT (or SUDT2) hydraulic oil properly filtered will go at least 800 or more hours, up to a 1000 hrs normal use without equipment threatening deterioration. Just keep the filters changed as indicated. This information directly from a large Kubota dealership service shop manager.

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RCW

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
8,456
4,146
113
Chenango County, NY
If nbryan says it’s a simple swap for the hydraulic filter, do that also. My BX loses a cup maybe besides the volume of the filter itself, so a quart.

On the other hand, I would not follow all his suggestions for fluid change intervals.

Change it per manual recommendations......[emoji41]


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Last edited:

nbryan

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
1,170
712
113
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
If nbryan says it’s a simple swap for the hydraulic filter, do that also. My BX loses a cup maybe besides the volume of the filter itself, so a quart.

On the other hand, I would not follow all his suggestions for fluid change intervals.

Change it per manual recommendations......[emoji41]


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I never meant to suggest don't follow the manual service intervals, DO! I'm following it strictly for my tractor! Just a lot of suggestions out there to change all your hydraulic oil, too, at 50 and/or 200 hours. I took those suggestions seriously, that's why I brought it up with my service manager when I went to get filters for my tractor. You already know his response, that it's wasteful and unnecessary. So I'll wait to buy my $100 pail of fluid until the 400 hour mark.

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RCW

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
8,456
4,146
113
Chenango County, NY
I never meant to suggest don't follow the manual service intervals, DO! I'm following it strictly for my tractor!

Tapatalk

Cool - I took it differently. Thanks for clarifying![emoji41]


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tcalvin48

Member

Equipment
B2650HSD, LA534 FEL, BH77 16" bucket,thumb, WG24, BB2560, WC68, RCR1860
Aug 22, 2019
43
4
8
Dresden, Maine
Thank you for all the informative posts. Getting to know my tractor is one of my goals. The 50 hour service comes with the tractor, nothing extra, and the service call is at my home. The dealership will instruct me on maintenance of the B2650 at that time.
My concern was being able to use the tractor while waiting for the service. At the rate I'm going it will have over 80 hours on it by then. The dealer advised me to change the oil, that will take care of any metal filings from the new engine and keep me going until the service call.
Again, thank you for the replies,
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
 

Orange1forme

Active member

Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Dec 1, 2018
394
56
28
Wa
Just completed my 50 hour service, plus.

The hardest thing was, and really not hard but annoying, the oil filter. Tough to get a tool on it while worrying about the wires and coolant hose.

I did use Rotella T6 5W40. Pretty sure it had dino oil in it from the factory, color was dark.

Then I did the HST and hydraulic filters, no issues.

I did a complete HST/hyd fluid change, too. Say what you want, it was only $82 for 4 gallons of Super UDT2. I will get another gallon, or the 2.5, to have on hand for top off.

I then did the front axle. It definitely had gear oil in it, you could tell by the smell and slow drain. I read/saw someplace to use foil to cover the wheel. I used wax paper and I think it is better. It is smooth and conforms easier and probably less prone to ripping.

I do use this for snow removal in the winter and noted a section in the WSM that indicates a drain for the clutch housing. It seems the engineers did not think this all the way through. With an FEL, the bracket/subframe blocks the passenger side bolt. I did remove the right side, but nothing in there and there was grease on the end, there was a little extension on the end of the bolt.

All in all went smooth and uneventful.

Now I will run it a little and recheck everything.
 

bota2650

New member

Equipment
B2650 Cab; LP 4 foot cutter; Titan Pallet Forks; The Thumb Grapple
Oct 23, 2019
17
0
1
Henderson
Hello,
My new B2650 HSD is (over) due for its 50 hour service, I have 60 hours on it. My dealer can't come and service it for two more weeks.
What are my options? Should I at least change the oil or do nothing for two weeks? What am I risking if I just keep using it?
Thanks,
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
I am in the same shape as you . . . dealer cannot get to me until next month. Weather is good the next two days so I will tackle my 50 hour service in the morning.
 

Orange1forme

Active member

Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Dec 1, 2018
394
56
28
Wa
It's pretty darn simple.!!!
 

sheepfarmer

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3560, B2650, Gator, Ingersoll mower
Nov 14, 2014
4,445
663
113
MidMichigan
The world or your tractor will not come to an end if you do not change the oil until 56 hours or whenever it is convenient. If you are not confidant don't do it this time. If you do, stick with Kubota approved fluids and keep receipts and records. The hard part is usually undoing the filters.

Ignore the part of the directions that say to have fuel tank half empty to change the fuel filter. There is a check valve that will stop the flow, but keep a container under it, since you will lose some diesel when you go to screw the cup back on.
 

whitetiger

Moderator
Staff member

Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
2,620
1,134
113
Kansas City, KS
Just completed my 50 hour service, plus.

The hardest thing was, and really not hard but annoying, the oil filter. Tough to get a tool on it while worrying about the wires and coolant hose.

I did use Rotella T6 5W40. Pretty sure it had dino oil in it from the factory, color was dark.

Then I did the HST and hydraulic filters, no issues.

I did a complete HST/hyd fluid change, too. Say what you want, it was only $82 for 4 gallons of Super UDT2. I will get another gallon, or the 2.5, to have on hand for top off.

I then did the front axle. It definitely had gear oil in it, you could tell by the smell and slow drain. I read/saw someplace to use foil to cover the wheel. I used wax paper and I think it is better. It is smooth and conforms easier and probably less prone to ripping.

I do use this for snow removal in the winter and noted a section in the WSM that indicates a drain for the clutch housing. It seems the engineers did not think this all the way through. With an FEL, the bracket/subframe blocks the passenger side bolt. I did remove the right side, but nothing in there and there was grease on the end, there was a little extension on the end of the bolt.

All in all went smooth and uneventful.

Now I will run it a little and recheck everything.
The clutch housing gearbox drain plug is in the backside, center and drains the hydraulic oil out of the gearbox. The clutch housing gearbox is then refilled by a tube between the transmission and the gearbox.
The drain plug takes a 14mm wrench to remove.