I finally solved all my instrument panel issues with the help of this forum and wanted to recap:
1. My initial problem was that the fuel gauge and temp gauge did not move much at all at startup or during use. A secondary problem was that the light and hazards did not work.
2. The repair of the lights and hazards was fairly straight forward. I removed the panel cover. The combi switch and hazard relay is accessible on the left once the panel is removed. The combi switch just pops out of the cover and is easily disconnected from the harness - replacement is simple as well. This fixed the lights but not the hazards. The relay is connected to the same harness. To remove the hazard relay, you turn it parallel with the mount - if you have the replacement hazard relay, you will see how it is "keyed" into the mount. Installed the hazard relay and hazards worked.
3. I hoped to repair the fuel gauge and temp gauges by removing the back cover of the panel and disconnecting the harness. I then removed the glass from the panel which allowed me access to the panel face plate and the needles to the gauges. I then removed the needles from all the gauges (stems came out with the fuel and temp needles). I believe this was my 1st mistake in that the fuel and temp gauges did not reset to no fuel or temp when installed. Worse, both fuel and temp gauges when connected to the harness and powered up, went to above full fuel and above max temp. And, did not move down when disconnected from the harness. I spoke with the dealer and he expressed disbelief that I removed the needles. I believe that you should not remove the needles though more knowledgeable members may disagree - I would defer to them. But it seemed to have caused me great difficulties.
4. I could not test or access the fuel gauge sending unit without removing the entire front cover. Removing the front cover requires the removing the steering wheel. The auto steering wheel removal tool I had required that it be screwed into the wheel - the tool I had would not screw into the tractor steering wheel. The gear pulling tool would not fit around the steering wheel and could not be used. I ended up using a piece of metal across the steering wheel bolt and some clamps. The way I did it took a long, long time. Once the steering wheel is removed, the cover comes out easily giving access to the fuel gauge sending unit. Ultimately, I removed the fuel gauge sending unit and discovered that there was no resistance across the wire connector and the ground - and no movement on the omh meter when the float was moved. Replaced the fuel gauge sending unit. Also replaced the temp sensor which is located on the right rear of the engine block.
5. When I plugged the panel board back in, the fuel gauge and temp gauge still did not work as discussed above. The panel is discontinued and cannot be obtained new. I ordered a salvaged panel - the machine it came from had in excess of 7000 hrs and was in rough shape (discussed in a separate thread). When the salvage panel was plugged into the harness the the fuel and temp gauges worked but the glow plug light stayed on. I was uncomfortable with the salvage panel so I removed the 3 screws holding the fuel gauge to the board, removed the 3 screws holding the temp gauge to the board and the 2 screws holding the hrs meter. All these screws are on the back of the board. By removing these screws, you do not have to remove the fuel and temp needles. I did remove the RMS needle and the 2 screws on the front of the face plate because I wanted to use my existing hr meter. Removed the salvage face plate with the gauges still attached. I installed the salvage face (with gauges) on to my original panel (after removing the defective/broken gauges). The original RMS/hr meter remained on my panel. Attached the all the above screws on to my panel and reinstalled the RMS needle.
6. Miraculously, I plugged the panel (with the salvage face plate and gauges - and everything worked. Also solved my hr meter problem - showing ~1200 hrs v salvage meter ~7200 hrs. Prior to doing all this, dealer said he would not spin the salvage panel hr meter to show the same hrs as my original meter but would try to take my hr meter out and install the unit into the salvage panel.
7. I did not discuss in detail the multi meter testing procedures as they are on various posts on this forum (by people who understand them better than I) and also in the WSM. I used them to verify that the fuel gauge sending unit was defective. When I checked my original panel, the WSM tests showed that my panel board was good not withstanding that the gauges did not work. The panel was good - just the gauges had problems - but this confused me. I did not test the temp sensor.
8. The salvage panel was ~$225 plus shipping, the temp sensor was ~$20 and the Fuel gauge sending unit was ~$90.
I learned a lot and hope this long post might help someone else. Thanks to everyone who helped me on this forum.
